The London Lounge

What's the proper choice of cloth for the tuxedo (both Summer and Winter weight ) as well as proper choice for the lapel facing?

My Winter DJ is a 13 ozs with black silk facing. Summer DJ is an 11 ozs mohair blend by the late great Peter Halstead (thanks Peter) with a black silk facing.

M Alden

Traditionally, upper class Englishmen would only chose Barathea from about 1930 onwards for their dnner jackets and evening dress. Before than, superfine meltons would be the default choice. Barathea is today available in black and midnight blue in various weights, and I like the offerings from Smith & Co and Holland & Sherry.

For the summer, mohair is an option. However, one must be careful here: if one is chosen which is too light, too shiny and cut in too modern a fashion, than the effect will definitely verge on the "non-U" (to use the expression made popular by Nancy Mitford).

TVD

Is there a place in your closet for a white dinner jacket?

Or Burma shade?

Isn't Barathea the same as Grosgrain? I thought Grosgrain facing is the alternative to a silk facing.

Anonymous wrote:Traditionally, upper class Englishmen would only chose Barathea from about 1930 onwards for their dnner jackets and evening dress. Before than, superfine meltons would be the default choice. Barathea is today available in black and midnight blue in various weights, and I like the offerings from Smith & Co and Holland & Sherry.

For the summer, mohair is an option. However, one must be careful here: if one is chosen which is too light, too shiny and cut in too modern a fashion, than the effect will definitely verge on the "non-U" (to use the expression made popular by Nancy Mitford).

TVD

Grosgrain is a more or less heavy twill.

Barathea is a smooth weave, rather like that of cotton lisle (not the rougher pique knit) sport shirts.

And, yes, grosgrain is made of silk and is an alternative to satin lapel facing.

Barathea is mostly found in wool, although I've seen some silk bow ties made in that weave.

Lord Castlerosse had evening clothes made of inky blue vicuna. The ultimate.