The London Lounge

What are these and when do you want to specify them?

Are they used in lapel seams or trouser seams?

I assume you mean a "swelled edge"? At least, that is a term I have heard, whereas "swollen seam" is not one I have heard.

A swelled edge refers to the finishing of the lapel and coat front edges. On most coats, this is pressed flat and a pick stitch is sewn in at the very edge to maintain a crisp, flat edge. A swelled edge has that edge stitch plus another one about 1/4" inward. The cloth in between the two rows of stitching swells out in a slightly convex fashion. It is an artisinal detail found largely on less formal clothing, and popular in Italy. It also a stape of certain American "trad" clothing, especially on tweeds, though machine stitching tends to be used by the Americans.

I like the look very much. I have my own personal "rule". Jackets and suits with patch pockets get "swelled edges" or double stitching. Jackes with normal pockets get regular stitching. He double stitching looks especially good on the perimeter of the patch pocket and adds to the casualness of the look. 9/10 times I get normal stitching and pockets on a suit, and 10/10 times I get patch and double on a sportcoat.

There are a few RTW Italian companies that put double stitching on back and shoulder seams, but to me it looks tacky. THis is not the rule with bespoke in ITaly.

There is double stiching and then there is swelled stiching. I think.

When I think of swelled stiching, I think of stiching akin to swelled stiching on shirt collars which is a Neapolitan or Italian speciality.

Somewhere on LL there is a message re. shirts made by Matuozzo and her "bomba" (?), swelled collar stiching technique. It is quite swelled up.

On the other hand, plain double stiching doesn't create that swelled looked alone; I think an additional technique is needed to get the swelled effect. Again, I think.

I have seen swelled stiching on the outside seam of trousers and this is interesting too.

On the issue of seams, could someone comment on the use of a "beaded" or lap seam on odd trousers? Is this detail with a lap seam as well as a parallel machine stitch, like the aforementioned jacket edges? Is the beaded or lap seam on both inner and outer sides of each pants leg? Am I correct that this detail would only be done on plain bottoms, i.e. no cuffs?

Dunno- it seems pretty Trad, and I don't know that cuffs would be against the Rules. I'd think outside seam only, though.

Yes, but, lap seam with or without 1/4 inch parallel machine stitch on the slacks?

A trouser lap seam has only one row if stitches. A "normal" trouser seam is sewn by machine in the inside, and then the seam is pressed open and flat. From the outside, all you see is a tiny "valley" where the cloth joins; you don't see any stitching at all, and the two pieces of cloth appear line up even along their edges.

On a lapped outseam, the edges of trouser foreparts will overlap the edges of the back parts. Then the seam is finished with a pic that is visible along its entire length. If the foreparts overalp by about a 1/4" (or less, more likely) so that there is a small flap, that is called a "loose lap" seam.

Oh, and a lap seam can be done on cuffed or uncuffed trousers.

Whilst not disputing that a lapped seam is technically possible with turn ups, is this done? I was told that it was traditional to have trousers with this detail left with plain bottoms. The trousers in question were cavalry twills. I am in th UK.

Not sure if there is a tradition to avoid lap seams on cuffed trousers, or to avoid cuffs on lap seamed trousers. I have seen the combination many times, on clothes made in Italy and New York.

I have cuffs on all of my pants and lap seams on most of them.

What is the alternative?

Does the lap seam fold towards your toes or heel on the odd slacks?

I don't know if there is a rule, but on the trousers that I am wearing now the folded/top part is pointing towards the heel.