How should a pattern be drawn: Is "Rock of Eye" the only way or is okay or even better to use pattern manipulation? I know rock of eye sounds right, but I guess a skilled cutter knowing how to manipulate a block pattern or computer generated pattern can do a very precise job as well. To put in another way: Do these techniques make a real difference having in mind that the customer is going thorugh a fitting proces afterwards?
Read more: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000030.html
Drafting a pattern
-
Guest
There is more than one way to skin a cat and there is more than one way to get the pattern “right”. I suppose it all depends in the individual craftsman’s training and preferences.
The freehand pattern might be fine for a standard suit coat or sport jacket, but would any cutter attempt a tail coat freehanded? In Edwardian times, probably: then the Savile Row firms turned them out by the hundreds. Now, that even the grandest houses are not likely to produce more than a few per year, it must be an extremely bold (or reckless) cutter who would attempt one, without a reference pattern.
Some conductors use a score in performance, others conduct without.
The freehand pattern might be fine for a standard suit coat or sport jacket, but would any cutter attempt a tail coat freehanded? In Edwardian times, probably: then the Savile Row firms turned them out by the hundreds. Now, that even the grandest houses are not likely to produce more than a few per year, it must be an extremely bold (or reckless) cutter who would attempt one, without a reference pattern.
Some conductors use a score in performance, others conduct without.
-
Guest
To draft a pattern measurements are needed to locate certain points on the body.
These points are found by more or less the same way, by means of a scale usually one third chest measure plus 6 inches, or half chest, both have their merits. There are other ways but these are the most common.
The rock of eye element comes into play by joining the points together, they are not just freehanded lines drawn on paper to produce the pattern. In simple terms, without sounding derogative, it is like dot to dot, from one point found by measure to another.
These points are found by more or less the same way, by means of a scale usually one third chest measure plus 6 inches, or half chest, both have their merits. There are other ways but these are the most common.
The rock of eye element comes into play by joining the points together, they are not just freehanded lines drawn on paper to produce the pattern. In simple terms, without sounding derogative, it is like dot to dot, from one point found by measure to another.
-
Guest
I think you may find that most tailors/cutter have a set of blocks that they work from (developed by themselves over many years). Then from this basis they can make the relativant changes for balance etc. Here is where the rock of eye comes into play. Anyone can draught a pattern from a book but the art is making/seeing the two demensional pattern in 3d. jhus angles can be revised and seam lines altered before cutting.
-
Guest
Rock of eye refers to when a cutter joins two points of a pattern by eye, in other words by memory and previous experience. To my knowledge there has only been one fool who cut a complete suit pattern, and cut the suit out, using only rock of eye. Not even a tape measure or straight stick was used. the suit was made for a client. It was a struggle, but it was deliverable, wearable and looked good.
Leonard
Leonard
-
- Information
-
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 35 guests