The London Lounge

Is this a "rule?" How robust?

I don't know about the rules ....but I think that the right style black shoe would work with, say, a black/white houndstooth or a more structured (read dressy) sports coat in predominately grey or dark blue. Along with dark grey trousers.

Still, IMO, sports coats cry for brown shoes; particularly when worn with the sports coats whose colors mimic the colors of nature: the browns, greens, rusts, yellows, heather, etc. etc.

Choice of these cloth colors for sports coats more accurately reflect these coats' country heritage rather than more sober city colors and are more suitable for sports coats.

These country colors go better with brown shoes than black.

Also, while sports coats in the traditional patterns, colors and cloth , etc. of England don't generally work in the city, I think that there exist another category of sports coats and cloth which can successfully be worn in the city.

But I like brown shoes with sports coats.


uppercase

I agree with uppercase. Although I am not a big fan of black shoes in general I could imagine wearing them with a black-grey houndstooth tweed jacket of mine.

Richard

I'd say brown is the natural shoe colour to go with a sports coat.

I would consider oxblood in preference to black.


Outrigger

I have more than one sportcoat where the favored pair of shoes is a double-soled black whole-cut derby.

Your parameters are: colour, cut, last shape, sole and type of leather.

You have decided to chose the most formal of shoe colours: black. If you wish your shoe to be worn with informal clothes, you must keep most of the remaining parameters informal.

I would beware of anything with laces (whether Oxford or Derby). I would also stear clear of heavy sole treatment and heavy lasts: while it may be informal, it is also rustic, and the combination of black and rustic appears exceedingly provincial and unstylish in my view. Absolutely beware clumsy heel shapes.

What you need is an element of informality and rakishness: exceedingly sleek town last, cut as a loafer, or a boot, possibly a monk. Experiment with leather that adds an interest to the surface: reverse calf, crocodile. What about pigskin or some other exotics? However, beware of a combination of last and leather that appears too dandified.

This answer probably raises more issues than it answers.

TVD

Another, less scientific approach:

If the shoe in question is suitable for a business lounge suit, you should not wear it with informal clothes.

This obviously assumes that you do not wear loafers and the like with your suits.

TVD

Anonymous wrote:If the shoe in question is suitable for a business lounge suit, you should not wear it with informal clothes.

I mostly agree with this, with one exception: the monk strap. That is a shoe that I think works equally well with suits and odd jackets.

manton

Just to chime in, I agree that in general, a black shoe appropriate for a business lounge suit, would not work too well.

I have a pair of Dainite/Commando soled, black suede captoes (English), with slightly extended welt. The suede is not as refined as say the best offerings from EG or Lobb but it is in keeping with the more rugged character of the shoes. I only wear these in winter.

These shoes also pair rather nicely with some of my offbeat (not job interview) suits.

-oscarsfan

A very old thread. I know.
I think that, with the possible exception of a very, very "dominant" odd jacket colour (a vibrant 'rust' for instance), I would rather match the shoe colour to the trousers. So if I were wearing (as I often do) very dark grey or dark blue trousers with said odd jacket... I think black would actually work best.

I have a few black derbys (from Vass)--- while I will wear them with a winter suit, especially when the weather is grim, I think they're best mated to dark grey flannel trousers and whatever else I might wear for an informal evening. Black/white sport jackets would be the obvious candidate, but a grey sweater and even some of the more sober tweeds could work. Perhaps a lighter pair of flannels with a soft blue jacket, as well.

Guest wrote:

Anonymous wrote:If the shoe in question is suitable for a business lounge suit, you should not wear it with informal clothes.

I mostly agree with this, with one exception: the monk strap. That is a shoe that I think works equally well with suits and odd jackets.

manton

I like to a Penny loafers would also compliment the intended casualness.
Wrong?

murtadza

Penny loafers or monkstraps in black could well compliment an outfit that is fairly dark or neutral. I have a gun-check sportscoat with blue-grey, navy, and black checks, which looks perfectly at home with a white shirt, grey trousers and black loafers.

Combined with a b/w jacket they seem to work just fine indeed.

http://www.voxsartoria.com/image/67009183245