The London Lounge

I'm referring to the wool felt under the collar and not our very esteemed member in NYC.

Why do men's better coats have collarmelton while ladies' coats do not? Was it determined that collarmelton would provide too much stiffness for a ladies' coat? Or was it determined that the ladies should be given the flexibility of turning-up their collars?

Further, have any of you seen self cloth instead of the collarmelton on mens' collars? I saw one on a striped suit on Claude Dauphin in the film, "April in Paris."

Thanks.

Coats cut to be worn with their collar up such as sports jackets or topcoats usually have self cloth. Recently saw a Zegna RTW sportsjackets with leather instead of melton.

Contrasting bright stuff underneath the collar is the preserve of a certain customised RTW/MTM garnment with pseudo European leanings popular in London. Usually comes with garrish linings, possibly with contrast colour buttonholes. I shall say no more.

Felt has one big advantage, it does not fray; there is no need to fold-under the cut edges like with ordinary fabric. That makes the collar flatter and sharper. Suiting fabric will fray; making the under collar from self-fabric will necessitate edges folded over and less crispness. That’s fine for sport coats, which sometimes have extensions to button the collar all the way up. But it is probably not the thing you aspire to in a business suit.

Collars in overcoat, where a round collar is set on a band or half-band (trench coat type collars), always use self-fabric facings. Traditional overcoats (like a Chesterfield, cut like an oversized jacket with lapels etc.) normally employ felt for the added crispness.