The London Lounge

I thought that that would get your attention.

Seriously, what are your thoughts on dry cleaning?

Some enthusiasts proudly boast that they never dry clean their clothes. I find this odd because brushing and airing will not rid clothes of minor food/drink spills which leave no stain, perspiration, skin creams, dkin medicines, shoe polish, and bodily fluids (both mentionable and unmentionable). All of these things are a feast for moths and other nasty creatures.

My local dry cleaner has stated the conventional dry cleaner wisdom that it is a bad practice to just press a suit because the dirt and other substances will get "cooked" into the cloth.

On an average I dry clean a suit once a season depending upon the amount of use. Some suits get scant or no use, and I do not dry clean them.

I would like to know your thoughts.

Thanks.

My tailor always recommends "sponging" rather than dry cleaning.

Yes, there are disasters that only a full dry clean will resolve (make up and lipstick come to my mind, but who wants to avoid those during a night on town), however it does ruin suits: the chemicals dry out the cloth, and the movement damages the canvas / structure. It completely wrecks buttons, even if the dry cleaner covers them individually in cloth.

Sponging means that stains are treated by LOCAL application of water and / or other required chemicals, which keeps the coat as unharmed as possible. Then the garnment is pressed. But I am sure a tailor or professional dry cleaner can be more specific.

An exeption are pale cotton summer trousers. These do require frequent dry cleaning because they show up stains so easily and would shrink when washed, but even their sturdy nature does not take it too well.

What of summer linen trousers in light colours? Apparently those Tom Wolfe suits only last him a few weeks while he's on book tours.

Even Mr. Wolfe's tours would almost certainly be under six or eight. But with all of the traveling of a book tour, that's a lot of stress to put on a garment.

As for dry-cleaning, I don't see why you should do it unless it needs to be done.

While we are here, can spot cleaning be done at home? What is needed and how can it be gotten. I would like to remove some stains from a tweed coat and would not like to trust it to any dry-cleaner - reputable or otherwise.

Dry-cleaning sponges, pre-soaked with the chemicals are sold. I would perhaps try this on a cheap thrift-store tweed coat, but not on something that mattered to me.

The real problem are pale fabrics because they show the edges of where the dry cleaning liquid has soaked the cloth. In general, trusting a good specialist (once one has found one) is easier. Or would you treat yourself when ill? But obviously a quack can do enormous harm.

With dark fabrics and very localised small stains a little sponge, a piece of cloth, lighter fluid, soap and water (in no particular order - different spots need different treatments) can work miraculously. You must always determine whether the stain is water or oil based first.

Which leaves unanswered the question of whether to press w.out cleaning. I have a new-ish collection of fall/winter trousers in rotation for the office (suits only for client meetings, generally). After 6 or so wearings into the season, they are not especially unclean. I hang them in the shower from the cuffs and steam with a hand-held steamer. And yet, the creases are weakening, knees are bagging a bit, and so on. So do I take it to the corner shop and have them hand pressed without a clean? Or have the full treatment (which they do very well, BTW), and assume that I'm looking at 2-3 cleanings per 6 months?

No damage will happen if you press without cleaning, but make sure the corner shop knows how to press without creating double creases and will press with a tissue between the cloth and the iron to avoid shine.

Did you consider an electric trouser press? Should work a treat. The old student method of putting your trousers overnight underneath your mattress is a bit old-fashioned, I guess.

A steamer can be quite useful.

TVD wrote:No damage will happen if you press without cleaning, but make sure the corner shop... will press with a tissue between the cloth and the iron to avoid shine.

That's an interesting point-- I've always heard that, but see the excellent cleaners I visit and most tailors press directly onto wool with a steam iron. Is there a safe way to do this? Should we all worry?

I have been advised by tailors to have the garment spot cleaned or dry cleaned without pressing, and to take it to a tailor for pressing.

I'm one of those Who "proud" states that never bring his cloh to dry cleaning. I treat every stain separately, brush and steam frequently. Never have my coat pressed, just trousers sometime.