The London Lounge

Hello, I'm looking for a bit of advice as I'm relatively young. I'm a wee bit skinny. Some quickie measurements for scale: 5'7", 55 kgs, 32" Chest, 28.5" Waist, 9.5" circumference at shoulder bicep, 5.5" circumference at the wrists. Skeletal, they are prone to say.

I can't quite afford Bespoke yet, but I have found a highly recommended and fairly affordable MTM outfit. I recently had a shirt ordered from them and I'm going to go pick it up tomorrow, and perhaps discuss suitings. I know quite a few things to discuss with him like armit position, lapel width, and cuts but do you fellows know of anything else in particular that a person with my body shape ought mention?

I feel I'm the sort that would be able to figure out that something looks unacceptable after the fact when the tailor decided to go with his 'standard', but I'd prefer to mention it beforehand.

Also, regarding shirt pockets: There seems to be a relatively standard size for shirt pockets. This size happens to be rather, rather large for my chest. I asked the tailor to make a pocket that was smaller so that some sense of proportion would be preserved, I'll see what I think of it at first glance tomorrow, but what are your opinions? If it looks silly, then what are your thoughts about simply removing the pocket since I know a large pocket is also unacceptable?

Thanks.

My advice is just to go without the shirt pocket. Unless you really need to use the pocket for something, it really is superfluous. Your shirt will look better with no pocket.

I could not agree more: anything you would like to carry in a shirt pocket should be placed elsewhere.

I can sympathise with your trouble finding clothes for those who have not supersized themselves. However, it is worth the cost an trouble to go bespoke.

Sir,

It's admirable of you to come forward, and intriguing to find someone with even more diminutive measurements than my own (35" chest, 29" waist, 5'8" tall). Made-to-measure or indeed bespoke should give you a good deal of satisfaction I hope.

Like the other gents have suggested, I'd recommend a shirt made without a pocket. Or, a placket for that matter - you don't need it. Have the back darts placed to cinch the sides reasonably close to the body.

With regard to suiting, you tread a fine line. Wear something too full-cut and you will look overwhelmed. But, by the same token, avoid the temptation to embrace the psedo-rock star skinny look with narrow lapels and so forth. For my money, an Italian cut that drapes well, in one or two buttons, adds substance without overplaying its hand. When purchased off the peg, they also lend themselves well to heavy alterations, due to the more flowing lines. When buying RTW, the single biggest risk is of getting a jacket that is too long.

Three button runs the risk of looking overwhelming. Waist suppression is highly desirable. Pinstripes likewise. Pinstripes in a medium-dark fabric with a high waist, minimal trouser break and gently tapering shoes will elongate the body quite nicely.

Best of luck.

-Eden

use fullness wisely, dont try to compensate for your frame by overdoing the jacket, a few key things if I may suggest - high collar (use no more than a 3" drop) with wide lapels that narrow down (ie with the collar done right it will add width at the shoulder level - look at the cesare attolini website http://www.cesareattolini.it for an example) adding on a vest is also a good idea if possible.

My suggestion would be to stay away from a coat that fits your body too closely. You will look like a rake, otherwise. Have some shape, by all means, but err on the big side. you can always take it in a bit.

This from an experienced tailor.