The London Lounge

Often, it's only when being faced with making the unalterable decision, that one even starts to contemplate some issues : one such decision is an outside breast pocket on my new LL 1000g whipcord overcoat - whether to have one or none at all., & I'd welcome any views.

After lugging all 4.5Kg of the cloth to my tailor, we reviewed the design options. I am going for something akin to a covert coat, (SB, fly front) but maybe a few cm longer than a trad. CC, - on the knee rather than above it and with 'regular' cuffs / hem rather than 4 rows of stitching. The side pockets will be flapped, slanted, and notched lapels. My tailor generally cuts a fitted (&flattering) silhouette, and a deep single vent. I am not inclined towards a velvet collar*.

I suppose a welted OSB pocket would be 'normal' for such a 'Chesterfield'-like design, but I wonder is there any merit in a cleaner look, doing away with the breast pocket? They are functional these days as a temporary stow for a mobile phone while juggling keys and shopping, but very unlikely in this case to sport a pocket square as one might with a lighter weight of coat.

I think the issue is as much one of making the most of the weight of the cloth. The heavy cloth is likely to drape in very rounded curves and may over time cause a breast pocket to gape a little, perhaps. In short, with such beautiful simple / stark cloth, is a breast pocket just a fussy detail? - or is it something necessary that will actually balance a chesterfield design?

Any thoughts?


(* I have gone right off velvet collars lately - I'm having one coat de-velveted shortly..)

Keeping it simple: in my experience is the way to go and be satisfied for many years (none of my overcoats has a breast pocket).
Nonetheless this is more old school italian than english pure bred, usually Chesterfields have a breast pocket.

Remember-- this is a heavy cloth, not a decorative one.

Dear Melcombe,

my advice would be to go for a jetted breast pocket. Make it large enough for a pair of gloves. I would never use it for a pocket square though, it looks a bit like trying too hard.

Given the cloth, I would not skip it. It is good to break the wool avalanche with a jetted pocket. I would avoid patch pockets with this material - it is simply too heavy.

Cheers, David

I would skip the breast pocket.

On a couple of coats, they tended to sag or gape over time. exposing the seam underneath.
.

Piped Flap raked to the front.

My whipcord was made in a Covert Coat/Chesterfield way and includes a breast pocket. The coat is celebrating its 13th birthday this year and its looks new. The breast pocket is as fresh as daisies. I had the coat on yesterday on display for a few friends and we all pretty much marveled at the beauty of it. No regrets about the design from me.

I am very happy we were able to do a second run of this remarkable cloth, so many of you can enjoy making it up and wearing it for eons. Yesterday, one of the very limited edition of duffle bags we made from this whipcord visited me as well. The "lucky" owner told me he had carried it from hell and back a few times. It looked new with just enough wear to give it the wabi-sabi. we all love so much.

NI0aKwNXRi+BfSmb2osE8A_mini_a28 by The London Lounge, on Flickr

Cheers

Thanks sincerely for all the helpful comments here. I can, I understand, defer a decision until the first fitting, so no indelible commitments made yet!

I ought to explain a little context which might explain why this ever came up as an issue in the first place. I love overcoats and have a bit of a collection now. I have been trying to cover all eventualities (as well as keeping out the cold) but a perennial problem is the sheer variety of situations in which I'll wear one. Covert coats are (just about) acceptable attire in our work environment and a lighter weight one fits the bill for most of my commuting. Last year however I obtained some rather lovely 18oz navy whipcord and had a chesterfield made from it. My (3 & counting..) covert coats and the Chesterfield are in a standard pattern - fly fronted and breast pockets.

My journey into trying to discover a personal style has generally been to simplify both garment features and cloth pattern (despite just having ordered a v loud Russell check jacket). I had been wondering whether passing on a breast pocket with the LL whipcord might be a worthwhile step in the direction of simplicity - I've seen a few examples of non-BP layout and they (to my eye) have an air of functional simplicity about them. The image below is a Henry Poole of some vintage. My LL whipcord coat will be slightly longer than the classic covert style; I think the risk is having a lot of uninterrupted cloth - but what lovely cloth.

I think I shall have a good long think at the fitting - at which point all your helpful advices will have a bearing.