The London Lounge

Hello.

Can anyone vouch for THE shirtmaker to settle with once and for all, preferably located in europe. I am thinking to just go with kiton but don’t want to pay for all the overhead in a commercial operation. Any small time makers recommended?

Similar prices, less overhead: 100Hands. Amsterdam based, they travel. Workmanship in India. I am nearly done with my first order. French cuff models are really fantastic, right up there with Frittolini, and with even more-precise handwork. May need to negotiate the forearm fit for button-cuff sleeves. Apart from that, trying to figure out if I want to modify the collar style a bit. Results are very good so far, though.

Otherwise, my reliable sources are Budd, Napoli su Misura, Ascot Chang. More or less comparable prices to each other (i.e., lower than 100Hands), unless you do CMT with AC. That can push prices down to almost reasonable levels.

When none of that is necessary, Mercer & Sons with a lot of modifications, for certain kinds of shirts.

I agree with 100hands.

But the summum is Lanvin. Marc Lawers, their shirtmaker, is the most detailed and careful shirt maker and a truly nice man. He was recommended to me by Maria Fritollini. The price is a bit higher than 100hands. I have tried many shirtmakers and he is definitely the best.

Good to know— thanks.

Hi

Where is Marc @ Lanvin based nothing comes up where doing a google search ?

Regards

Marc Lauwers is the only shirtmaker I would consider on the same level as Pierre Duboin. He has made me several shirts and they are as good as it gets. Marc is a man of great taste and refinement, so working with him is a true rarified pleasure. And his knowledge of tailoring is equal or greater than most tailors I know. So much so that he used to make my trousers. And his trouser pattern is superb. But don't ask him for trousers, they are only his hobby. He makes all his own clothing including his own ties and his dress is as elegant as it is impeccable.

If you can afford the very best, Marc Lauwers is an excellent choice.

Cheers

Thanks Michael but where can Marc Lauwers be found as nothing come up on a google search unless I’m missing the obvious?

Regards

Wasser

At Lanvin men's store in Paris on the Rue Faubourg St. Honore. The Bespoke section is on the uppermost floor of the building.

Thanks Michael I’ve always heard great things about them so want to give iit a try

Marc has been making shirts for me for the last 12 years. He is great. That being said, you need to make appointments to see him and you need to come to Paris for measurements and fittings. You also do not get the immersive experience of Charvet's bespoke floor with all of its incredible cloths - rather, as with any other shirtmaker you would order from the current books of good cloth houses. But Marc is a talented patternmaker and cutter and extremely careful at getting your pattern just right and all of your requests realized. My patternmakers at Charvet have long since retired and Marc is the shirtmaker currently working whom I trust the most - but most of my experience is with the French. Lanvin has been offering some of the best bespoke around for almost a century. It no longer publicizes that.

Rjman

Always good to hear from personal experience.

Is there a lot of hand work in the make up of he shirts ?

What’s the current pice ?

Regards

Buttonholes are handmade and there is hand picking at the shoulder. Monograms are also hand-stitched. The French don't do more handwork than that.


Price is painful.

About to try camiceria piccolo. Any thoughts?

My first shirt with 100Hands is still in process, so I can't speak to my experience so far. But the shirts I have seen are astonishingly well made. So we shall see how the fit turns out and how long it takes to dial in.

I can recommend James MacAuslan at Budd. In my opinion, James is a once-in-a-generation talent. I suspect at some point he will strike out on his own, but for the moment he is doing excellent things at Budd. I've also had shirts made at Emma Willis and I'm very pleased with them.

Interesting. My guy is Mr Butcher. Not life-changing, but he has arrived at a very reliably good pattern. If MacAuslan jumps, please let the rest of us know.