The London Lounge

I am considering the idea for my next commission of including a waistcoat as part of a two button, single breasted suit. Do members please have any experience or advice about the pros or cons of including lapels on the waistcoat ? General configurations seem to be either six or seven buttons enabling the bottom one to be left undone - any comments?
I also like to wear a pocket watch so will incorporate a single vertical button hole to accommodate this.

I realise of course that all these options will eventually come down to personal choice but your thoughts would be appreciated please.

Regards,
Snapper

I mostly stay on the safe side: SB, 6 buttons, no lapels. I once had a waistcoat made up with lapels but still am not sure about it... maybe on a country suit.

Don't order a vest unless you wear classic high rise trousers. Nothing worse than a shirt peaking through. Ten years ago I wouldn't have to mention this. But now days.....

Don't order a vest unless you wear classic high rise trousers. Nothing worse than a shirt peaking through. Ten years ago I wouldn't have to mention this. But now days.....

+1

Never done lapels, although I have no moral objection. It is a detail that calls attention to itself a little. So only do it if (a) you want to call attention to that detail, or (b) you -- and the rest of your suit -- are sufficiently extroverted that nobody will notice or care.

As you say, a country suit is a logical place to try it, especially if there are ticket pockets, half-belts, etc., dangling about elsewhere. It makes less sense with a sober town suit.

The main thing is to avoid looking like you tried too hard, as if to show that you can suddenly afford an expensive suit.

Gentlemen thank you for your replies. Having considered all your advice I have concluded that I would be better off not to include a waistcoat. Instead with the money I save on it I could put it towards either a jacket or pair of trousers.

Thanks again,
Snapper

If I may contribute rather belatedly…

I agree with the above posters that a waistcoat is not entirely ‘mainstream’ and therefore noteworthy. A lapelled waistcoat, slightly more so (but, I would opine, a lesser increment in eccentricity than having a waistcoat in the first place) and a double-breasted waistcoat is yet more unusual.

If mimetic effect is desired, I would avoid it. However, in a ‘formal’ business suit setting, I don’t think it would be regarded as pronouncedly odd.

I might add that, based on photographs posted on various web for a / sites (as opposed to fashion plates), my impression is that in the 1930s through the 1950s far, far more waistcoats were devoid of lapels, whereas the opposite seems true of the 1910s-1920s.

Even more belatedly, I don't think waistcoats are quite so unfamiliar in England now as they might have been for a while, given Gareth Southgate's sporting of them (sorry . . .).

Snapper

If it were a tweed suit I would encourage you to have a waistcoat made (if you have a good enough tailor to make a good fitting one...not at all evident these days.) All my tweed suits are 3pc.

For a winter/fall weight worsted or flannel suit, 3pc is a great option. I like them, but its down to how you feel about wearing one. Many of my worsted suits are 3pc, even DBs.

If you are slender, a 3pc can give you breadth. If you are heavy, have a great tailor or else. If you are making MTM, I would not even think of it.

Cheers

I particularly like waistcoats for office environments. Good option when it’s a bit cold inside, or when you don’t feel like wearing the jacket but still want something on top of the shirt.
Agree with Alden thaf if feels more natural on mid season/winter suits.
The SB Agbelli tweed that Edwin cut for me is a 3pc - hope to have pics soon.

You can also go for single-ply cashmere or merino. More colors, less cost. And less making people feel that you've over-dressed.

Again my many thanks gentlemen for your replies.
At the moment only my tweed suits have waistcoats. The new suit is to be a sober town suit, and I would not wear it in an office situation with the coat removed. So I think you are correct in advocating no waistcoat. My current tailor is skilled enough to make a good fitting one but that is hardly justification to have one for the sake of it.

Thank you all again,
Snapper