The London Lounge

The weather in the UK has been looking up lately, which is more than I can say for my old Panama hat. It has lasted me well - 10 years of regular summer use isnt bad, I am guessing.

It was a gift whose monetary value I didnt appreciate until I looked at the cost of replacing it. I also didnt realise how much more expensive fine weaves are. I can see that the exponentially greater amount of handwork merits a higher cost, but I cannot see that it translates into a more useful hat : I am however open to persuasion otherwise.

Panamas are relatively fragile and prone to picking up a bit of dirt along the way. Are they repairable? My old one is valuable enough for some investment. Would an occasional light wipe with a linseed oil impregnated cloth be any help?

I have acquired a new version (a wide brim fedora style by Olney) in a stouter grade and substantially cheaper than the direct equivalent of the old. It's not a folder, but does anyone actually fold them (other than to see if its possible)?

My problem has always been - as with any hats - getting them in my extra-extra-fat-head 62cm size.

I am intrigued by the artisan element though - are there any reliable importers to the EU? I rather like the idea of getting one from Ecuador in proper shape / proportion to my size.

Can't help you with EU importers. I got mine from Panama Hat Works of Montecristi in the U.S., which seems now to be out of business. But I see that Montecristi Panama Hats in Napa, California, seems to offer a full range of sizes including your 62cm. This company is run by an Ecuadoran family that has emigrated to the States. Can't vouch for their service or quality, though they claim both to be high, and they do ship internationally. It might be worth calling them to discuss the sizing process, how they handle shape (long oval and so on), cleaning, etc.

And of course there's always Optimo Hats in Chicago, which sells a range of quality Panamas, and Graham and Co. would ensure a perfect fit.

Not to be presumptuous, but how scruffy is your existing Panama? A certain amount of "patina" is traditional for some applications.

I bought mine, a folder from ebay vendor 'equalearth' so probably less costly than yours from Olney. Yes, I do roll mine up inside its tube, which I pack in my suitcase when travelling. Wafting the hat in steam from a kettle restores its shape effectively after unpacking.

From memory, the care instructions suggested wiping with a damp cloth and to avoid using soap and detergents. However, I think the best approach is to be extremely careful with the hat to keep it pristine.

Melcombe wrote: Panamas are relatively fragile and prone to picking up a bit of dirt along the way. Are they repairable? My old one is valuable enough for some investment. Would an occasional light wipe with a linseed oil impregnated cloth be any help?

Dear Melcombe,

put a damp cloth over your hat from time to time and do nothing more.

Melcombe wrote:I have acquired a new version (a wide brim fedora style by Olney) in a stouter grade and substantially cheaper than the direct equivalent of the old. It's not a folder, but does anyone actually fold them (other than to see if its possible)?

From my own experience, avoid folding excercises if you want your hat to survive a season or two.

Melcombe wrote:I am intrigued by the artisan element though - are there any reliable importers to the EU? I rather like the idea of getting one from Ecuador in proper shape / proportion to my size.

I can recommend Brent Black, Optimo and Locke. Locke has a nice selection with is not too expensive. What I would also recommend is getting another straw hat on top. Panamas are rather fragile, and sometimes you prefer having something more robust. Risa Switzerland has a very nice choice in a very good quality: https://www.risa.ch/kollektion/freiamt-kollektion/ Their site is in German only, but just contact them.

Cheers, David

davidhuh wrote:
I can recommend Brent Black, Optimo and Locke. Locke has a nice selection with is not too expensive. What I would also recommend is getting another straw hat on top. Panamas are rather fragile, and sometimes you prefer having something more robust. Risa Switzerland has a very nice choice in a very good quality: https://www.risa.ch/kollektion/freiamt-kollektion/ Their site is in German only, but just contact them.

Cheers, David

Thats really very kind - much appreciated. The Risa ones are lovely - I'm due a trip to Luzern and an excuse to brush up my German..

I did look at Brent Black's site too : it's a very impressive collection and very comprehensive delivery arrangements to the UK.

I can see that Panamas could become a bit of thing for me - I really love the idea of parading the skill that goes into them, although I don't feel inclined to go to the extremes of fineness as that seems to have parallels with high thread count cloth : super expensive for a 'meh' advantage at the cost of poor durability. A modest collection awaits...

I've had my Panama for 3 decades and it looks great and its one of the finest that was made way back when. I found it in an old traditional men's shop in Rome, THE men's shop in Rome, not trendy and a few hundred years old. But it was shutting down. My hat had been made bespoke for a man who never picked it up and it was for sale, a 64 cms no one wanted and it fit me fine. Had it ever since, a real beauty.

Keep the hat in a good hat box all by its lonesome. Never let it leave your head when about. No hat check. No leaving it to voyage about in a restaurant or bar. In the hands or on the head.

If it looks weary, stuff an old tee shirt inside for a couple days and it'll perk up just fine. A very lightly damp cloth every once and awhile won't hurt it.

Even so, I had a few caps made in LL linen and that's what I wear most of the time in bright warm weather.

Cheers