Are the days of tailored clothing numbered?

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
alden
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Sat Sep 16, 2017 12:04 pm

From everything I hear, orders for primary materials for the production of what we would call tailored or classical clothing are down down down. Big name retail merchants are cutting way back. And I wonderif we are nearing the end of the cycle of dress.

When I go to NYC I am just stunned, flabbergasted . People dress like dust bins and spend thousands to do so. You rarely see a jacket much less a suit. And a tie? Almost never.

What is your take on this?

Cheers
arch
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Sat Sep 16, 2017 1:27 pm

Yes, I think they are. In the 1940s most men wore tailored clothing everyday. Like it or not, in the 21st century a lounge suit is considered as a formal garment. Providing it is fairly new and unfaded, Denim is considered acceptable wear for most events. In the past men wore flannel as a casual trouser and denim or cord as work clothes. That is all there was.

As ever the greatest advances have been with sporting fabrics. This tends to filter down to everyday clothing. These days country clothing is made of breathable man-made fabrics. It might not look as good but it performs much better. I feel warmer and drier sailing or hiking in Goretex - a fact of life, I am afraid. They are only clothes after all.

It is all the more reason why these days we can wear what we like, unconstrained by perceived rules. On a positive side it is also a reflection of a more eglalitarian attitude, which is generally a good thing.
Luca
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Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:36 pm

I think there are three types of evidence supporting the notion that tailored clothing, especially the traditional jacket and necktie, remain in steady decline.

1) The quantitative evidence of reduced orders (as Alden reports), reduced retailers offering such merchandise, the ever shrinking percentage of people, in traditional strongholds like CBDs, etc. who wear tailored clothing.

2) The qualitative evidence that the frequency of occasions / places where such clothing is more or less expected continues to decrease (vis: the recent abolition of the requirement of British male MPs to wear a tie) while the frequency of occasions / places were such clothing is proscribed or actively frowned upon continues to increase.

3) Evidence of hysteresis (stickiness) in shocks around the trend whereby, once a given ‘traditional’ sartorial habit or standard is ‘loosened’, it becomes virtually unthinkable to re-instate it.

In London, one can still see plenty of tailored clothing, though it’s decreasing by the day. Even Black tie, on the Tube, in the street, will not draw any obvious attention. But the percentages are changing steadily. The necktie, in particular, at the current pace, would reach considerable desuetude within my lifetime (say, the next 20-30 years). I would not be surprised if, by the late-2020s, a man wearing a necktie outside a few rare places / occasions will draw sidelong glances like someone wearing a felt hat (fedora / trilby) nowadays.

One question, to other LL folks. How do you feel this trend will affect your own choices?
whyescalar
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Wed Sep 20, 2017 1:52 pm

Tend to agree, however believe it is dependent on which country one is in. Contraction towards a smaller number of artisans would be of course felt earlier. For business, the hard and fast rule you have to wear a coat-and-tie if you're chasing money, collecting money, or using the courts to settle a dispute (money again) is still there in the Anglo-Saxon world.

Socially, there are simply too many entertainment options for people to go now versus "must attend" events of the past. Our social lives have become more democratic and focused, so no real reason to get well-turned out.
hectorm
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Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:35 pm

Luca wrote: The frequency of occasions / places were such clothing is proscribed or actively frowned upon continues to increase
Dear Luca,
Although I have been invited (for "comfort" reasons) to remove my jacket or necktie in several occasions, I'm yet to be actively frowned upon for wearing them. Or is that invitation scowl enough and I have not been paying attention?
Also I don't remember attending social events in which jacket and tie were formally proscribed. Which ones do you have in mind? I've seen the trend to prescribe "business attire" instead of "jacket and tie". But proscribe them? Maybe I'm really not paying attention. :(
uppercase
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 1:20 am

Let me give you my perspective as a consumer.

Suits.

I haven't had a suit made since … I don't know when.

I haven't worn a suit since … I don't know when.

The few suits I have reside in garment bags.

I only pull them out occasionally if I have to go before a grand jury.

They have sentimental value but no practical use for me anymore.

So… goodbye suits. At least for me.

So what do I still have made?

Sports coats. Only sports coats.

My Grande Pignolo tailor made me a sports coat. A blue 3 button, SB, blazer. Simple.

These are the only bespoke garments I wear these days. And in fact, the only bespoke item worn for a very long time now, in ages really.

I grew up wearing sports coats of one type or another. I wore sports coats in high school and in college almost daily. They have pockets to put stuff in. They keep me warm. They make me look decent when everything else I wear is sloppy. I love 'em.

And they keep me in the game: I can still go around, travel, and find a tailor to chat up, schmooze with, who will make me a sports coat. They are fun, tactile, sporty, and not serious. If it doesn't come out right, who cares. No one notices. A sports coat is rough and ready and as I said, keeps me warm. I am way ahead of the game if I wear a sports coats most days. Today I wore one. Nothing else bespoke or fancy or coordinated, but as I say, a handmade sports is tops for me and a daily pleasure.


Shoes.

Like suits, I have shoes. They also sit, unused. They will outlive me. I enjoy looking at them now and then. But I don't wear them.

Well, let me correct that and put it this way: I don't wear formal type laced, leather shoes any longer.

That includes my EGs, Berlutis, Bemers, the BMW... Oh no, sorry. Scratch the BMW.

Again, like suits, I just don't have occasion to wear them.

But I do buy a couple of pair of shoes yearly. What are they?

Well, usually I buy something rubbery with canvas in the Summer time. I bought two pairs this Summer. $80--
They're comfortable, practical and versatile. Throw them out when your toe pokes a hole through the canvas and buy another pair next Summer.

This year I also bought a pair of Clarks desert boots. This matter deserves a separate post. I have long been a fan of chukkas.
I wear these a lot.

To sum up: as far as shoes go, no more purchases planned of formal, leather, leather soled shoes, laced up shoes. Moving on from those old days....

Small correction here: I do wear leather shoes: loafers, and indeed wear them frequently. English Lobb and Crockett, French Westons. Italian Gucci. And Pucci. I like suede.

It's all about the pivot now. Pivoting toward casual. "Stylish Casual" as G. Bruce Boyer calls it over on Drakes website (read his short, great article on cardigans over there).

Trousers.

Again, I haven't bought trousers in a long time. I wear them pretty much daily but don't buy them anymore.

I was never a big fan of bespoke trousers. Too hard to fit right. Too expensive and time consuming to bother with. Generally poor results.
RTW trousers are fine for me.
I can find everything in RTW trousers that works great me : corduroy, flannels, patterns, etc., etc.
And in any style.
Go to Brooks Brothers and I think that they have at least 3-4 styles of their good quality trousers.

But daily wear: cotton khakis and blue jeans. Not very complicated.

And also shorts if the weather is hot. Or if I am smoking brisket that particular day.

Knitwear.

A revelation.

I have been a big buyer of knitwear recently, in the past 2-3 years or so.

I had forgotten about knitwear and just how great it is. But in my youth, they were daily staples.

I've gone back.

I got a few William Lockie, and other - Berk - single ply pullovers in Merino, Geelong, cashmere. Direct from the internet.

Very happy with these purchases.

Again, practical: they keep me warm. Colorful: they cheer me up, add great color to any outfit. Value: hard to beat.

Don't let the moths get them and you will be very happy.

To me, they return my mind to the good old days. That's my association. I also wear sleeveless cardigans, another great addition, and I saw these many, many years ago in Italy; the Italians have been wearing these forever. Nothing new, but a tried and true minor purchase guaranteed to make you happy again.

Ties.

I have a closet full of ties. We all do. I never wear them. Again, I can't remember the last time I wore a tie.

But, and I find this very strange, I keep buying them.
Inexplicably, I troll the tie websites: Drakes, Marinella, Calabrese, Viola, Nicky, Cappelli, Charvet....
I go to department stores and stare at the shiny, mesmerizing silk ties. And wool, and tweed and....

I can't explain why. It is a little bit disturbing, really. (Does anyone else do this? Just asking out of curiousity....)

And I have bought a few ties this year - probably 4. But never worn them. But I do like to look at them hanging in my closet.


Accessories.

Ah, accessories. This is were my purchases have recently taken me. Are they the future of menswear?? Ha!. I don't know.... but this is where I go.

I continue to buy pocket squares, silk scarves, wool scarves, ascots. Most anything shiny.
Also leather gloves and the occasional hat. And colorful socks.
No jewelry. No watches (other than a nice Swatch).
No new pipes, though I buy pipe tobacco.
Many cigars, though I dont think that you can call them an accessory really.
Much champagne; oh well, let's be truthful and say sparkling wine. Wine: yes. Stinky cheese: yes. Good bread: no, I can't find any.
Many restaurant meals and other little essentials of staying alive.
I buy cook books occassionally, last week "Roast Chicken and Other Stories" by the British author Simon Hopkinson arrived and I recommend this enjoyable book if you enjoy bespoke clothing. Very relaxing.

So, generally, no, I would say that tailored clothing's days are not numbered.
They are just beginning as more and more men enjoy their lives, enjoy their successes, enjoy a few select beautiful material items to enhance the daily pleasures of being alive.

Tailored clothing will always be here to enrich us.
luk-cha
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:33 am

for suits, tailored garments are prefered

for casuals a tailored jkt + rtw shirt, pants are fine (in fact preferred)

there is somethg to be said abt mixing bespoke & rtw imho.
Luca
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 10:22 am

hectorm wrote: Dear Luca,
Although I have been invited (for "comfort" reasons) to remove my jacket or necktie in several occasions, I'm yet to be actively frowned upon for wearing them. Or is that invitation scowl enough and I have not been paying attention?
Also I don't remember attending social events in which jacket and tie were formally proscribed. Which ones do you have in mind? I've seen the trend to prescribe "business attire" instead of "jacket and tie". But proscribe them? Maybe I'm really not paying attention. :(
Many popular / fashionable (and, indeed, in some cases, pleasant) bars / clubs / restos in London have an anti-tie and anti-suit door policy. It is rarely stated explicitly but it's a reality. It is akin to the old days when 'trainers' might rule out entry.

I know of two separate cases when someone making a pitch was TOLD, more or less nicely, to NOT wear a tie as it was felt it did not conform the a certain commercial image.

In some places (more in the US, is my impression), apparently people will not be admitted if they are wearing 'costume'. So, OK, no Iron Man cosplay or even a pretty out there Dracula or Steampunk. How about a boater? Yep: costume. Spats? Yep: costume. In ten years... a tie? a woman wearing any sort of 'formal' hat?
alden
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:27 am

Many popular / fashionable (and, indeed, in some cases, pleasant) bars / clubs / restos in London have an anti-tie and anti-suit door policy. It is rarely stated explicitly but it's a reality. It is akin to the old days when 'trainers' might rule out entry.
Very true. I was out with a couple friends in London. The men were dressed like construction workers but with $2,000 boots. I had a blazer and flannels w/ a tie. When we decided to get a bite to eat, they said, "we'll have to get changed and then meet up." And I said, "Great, no problem I'll wait for you." At which point they laughed, "You are the one who needs to change!"

I am curious to hear from people from NYC or other large US cities. I feel very vulnerable walking in NY in a suit or being well dressed. And I have had very acrimonious comments made over recent years. NYC is arguably as elitist a city as exists in the world today. And yet the drive to "egalitarian" (sic) uniformity is unlike anywhere I have traveled to. My question is: do you feel safe in NYC when well dressed? I do not. Those looks that kill on the street anywhere in Manhattan can be chilling. How do you guys get by? Do you live in taxis or Uber from home to venue to home? I just love walking and I think jeans, boots and Carhartt is the only way to go, to stay alive. 8) :shock:

Its funny because I have never felt that in LA. If anything the attitude is more open, more European there. And people say nice things to you.
emde
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 11:55 am

Suits - I am wearing them rarely, mostly opera (where I otherwise wear black tie only very rarely, only sometimes at opening nights or festivals) or some more important business meetings

Sports Coat - worn on a daily basis even for leisure

Tie - also worn on an almost daily basis, even if I am in most occasions, in particular in business occasions, the only one wearing one. I simply like ties and tend to wear them even on weekends or probate events. I often get comments for wearing a tie (which was not the case 10 years ago), but people do not seem to be offended by me wearing a tie :wink:

Overall, for me it is heading towards a more comfortable approach, but within the "limits" of what is today seen as formal wear (shirt and jacket). I also think that the current trend for wearing sweat pants (which has been around already some 30 years ago) will go away again. But I am very sure that there is no way back to the days when all men wore jackets (or even suits) everyday.
Luca
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 12:08 pm

alden wrote: ... I am curious to hear from people from NYC or other large US cities. I feel very vulnerable walking in NY in a suit or being well dressed. And I have had very acrimonious comments made over recent years. ...
That sounds terrible. :(

Other than purely commercial visits to Mid Town offices during business hours, I have not been to New York in over 10 years.

When I last was there "on my dime" (around 2005) for any length time, my silk pocket square, tweeds, etc. drew compliments (including from a charming roué in the panhandling business).

What the heck happened? :roll:
bond_and_beyond
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 12:25 pm

Skip NYC, and go to Tokyo instead. Many dandys there still. And much friendlier than the Big Apple...

BB
alden
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 12:31 pm

Skip NYC, and go to Tokyo instead. Many dandys there still. And much friendlier than the Big Apple..
+1

Love Japan.
alden
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 12:42 pm

Uppercase

I am with you on about everything especially knitwear. But I find well broken in goodyear traditional shoes look great with casual trousers and are as/more comfortable than sneakers. Except in the dead of summer I wear them an awful lot.

As regards, knitwear, the roll neck jumper has become my standard for the Fall to Early Spring.....almost all are Lockie. They look great under a coat, 3/4, jacket or casualwear...with jeans, flannel or tweed trousers. The nice thing is you can look great and not risk provoking WWIII by wearing a silly strip of knotted silk! :?

I love wearing suits and still do though more jackets these days.

Cheers
ay329
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Thu Sep 21, 2017 1:52 pm

I concur that knitwear is a bespoke adventure worth taking. Especially if you seek the traditional knitters who do this at home using local yarns best suited for their patterns. I do not buy RTW stuff, even by the well known luxury brands. There has been a knitting revival spearheaded by websites such as Etsy and Ravelry, where you can seek out the knitter you desire, the pattern of the garment you want, the yarn that you like...and I've even found a women who created the color and pattern of yarn that I wanted.

Depending on the style chosen, knitwear goes well with traditional bespoke trousers in linen, flannel, worsted, tweed, corduroy. But it also works with denim jeans, corduroy shorts, sweat pants, and chinos.

Aran patterns with Donegal flecked wool are gorgeous in hoody, jumpers, shawl collar cardigans, and buttoned neck sweaters. They are my go to items when I go to social functions and weekend gatherings that I know no one will wear a jacket and tie. More importantly, knitwear does not go out of style. Unlike the traditional bespoke tailoring or shoe trades, which the newer generations are not flocking to as a profession, lots of folks are rediscovering the joys of knitting and wearing knitwear. Your local yarn shop is another place to test your interest, and maybe meet the knitters who are making a living or supplementing their incomes through knitting

Fair Isle vests, waistcoats (my favorite), hoody (yes...hoody), and cardigans equally do well with casual as well as bespoke clothing. With the exception of the hoody, they do not go well with sweatpants.

Icelandic Lopi sweaters are another treasure trove to supplement a wardrobe, although they work better for a more casual look. I receive more compliments with these than any other knitted garment.

Finally, the North of England has skilled knitters that make distinct Ganseys/jumpers that work well with denim and casual bespoke cloths such as corduroy.

These sweaters cost a fraction of what some pay for sports jackets, and do not require you visit the artisan in person, although I would love to visit County Donegal in Ireland, Iceland, and the Shetland Islands in Scotland.

It is here you can make your knitwear dreams a reality, and ensure your sense of style is displayed in a well thought and more subtle method than with a jacket/suit and tie. Knitting is still going strong because mass produced machine made stuff is not that much cheaper, and the joys of a custom knitted garment is something still attainable by the common folk.
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