The London Lounge

I have never regarded a dinner jacket as a suit, but rather a collection of separates which may or may not all be cut from the same (black) cloth. As such, I wear my ivory dinner jackets with the same black trousers as I do with my black dinner jackets.

Now that a midnight blue mohair is in the offing, I am wondering about using it for a dinner jacket. Does one need to pair a midnight blue dinner jacket with midnight blue trousers? I know one can, but is it required? Is it ever done to wear a midnight blue jacket with black waistcoat and trousers?

Andy,

I would suggest going with midnight blue for the trousers as well....blues and blacks can clash.

They may have started as separates, but that was when everything was black-- at least in civilian wear. There are the military exceptions. Throw an informal thing over your dress trousers and you're good to go for a private dinner. Midnight blue supposedly enhanced the look under artificial light for press photographers-- when you were more likely to be all put together with a suit.

I agree with Michael that mixing a midnight blue dinner jacket with black trousers might produce a jarring effect. I would stick to blue; however, for a summer or tropical soirée, this Esquire photo demonstrates the combination of a midnight blue DB dinner jacket with white or cream formal trousers. A bit too unconventional for some, perhaps, but I think it quite appealing.
[img][IMG=http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x10 ... 2NmMVq.jpg][/img][/img]

andy57 wrote: Is it ever done to wear a midnight blue jacket with black waistcoat and trousers?

My work-horse dinner suit is midnight blue (SB, peak lapel with a vest). I also own another more relaxed dinner suit (DB, shawl collar) in a black wool/mohair blend. They are too different in color, weight and texture for mixing up. Also the side braids of the trousers would be a mismatch in relation to the buttons and lapels of the opposite jacket.
Never really looked at my dinner suits as a collection of separates. Perhaps because I only own those two, although I have occassionaly worn the dress trousers as odd pants with a velvet jacket.
In my experience I've seen that not only may blue and black clash, two different blacks might clash as well.

Well, okay. Thank you for those replies. In that case, I shall forgo a midnight blue jacket, as going the whole midnight blue suit is, for me, verging too close to prom tux territory. Just my personal bias, but there it is.

andy57 wrote:Well, okay. Thank you for those replies. In that case, I shall forgo a midnight blue jacket, as going the whole midnight blue suit is, for me, verging too close to prom tux territory. Just my personal bias, but there it is.

Good thinking.

(A prejudice shared is a prejudice vindicated !)

alden wrote:Andy,
I would suggest going with midnight blue for the trousers as well....blues and blacks can clash.

I could not agree more. Blues and blacks can sometimes acchieve an absolutely awful look.

If you can get the same fabric in a very dark blue and black for the trousers, however, I'd think it could work. There is a school of thought that says that the trousers should either be black regardless of the jacket's color, and the trim and jacket facings also black.

Noble Savage wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 28, 2021 10:52 pm

If you can get the same fabric in a very dark blue and black for the trousers, however, I'd think it could work. There is a school of thought that says that the trousers should either be black regardless of the jacket's color, and the trim and jacket facings also black.

Well, in the intervening four-ish years, I had jacket, trousers, and a waistcoat made from the LL midnight-blue mohair. I had the trim and facings done also in a midnight blue satin silk. I think it was the right decision. I've worn the trousers with every one of my dinner jackets except my black one and my green one.. The midnight blue is an especially good compliment to my ivory jacket. I'm currently commissioning a velvet DB dinner jacket from H&S mustard velvet that I think will also work with the midnight blue.

I did not attend the school that says the trousers should always be black, clearly. Indeed, I'm also in the process of commissioning a pair of ivory formal trousers, with ivory grosgrain seam covering. The mustard jacket is intended as a pair for the trousers, but every jacket will probably work, including the black one. I'm sure I would have been expelled from this school long ago.

My experience of a true midnight blue is that it is impossible to tell it is "blue" unless held very close to a true black.

andy57 wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 29, 2021 3:34 pm

I did not attend the school that says the trousers should always be black, clearly. Indeed, I'm also in the process of commissioning a pair of ivory formal trousers, with ivory grosgrain seam covering. The mustard jacket is intended as a pair for the trousers, but every jacket will probably work, including the black one. I'm sure I would have been expelled from this school long ago.

I've seen this white trousers with dark formal jackets sometime in the 1920s-1930s. There is a precedent for this in court dress, which included white trousers or breeches for the most celebratory occasions. Design books say that having a dark top part of the body and a lighter lower half makes one look younger.

You deserve an award for taking black tie to the next level beyond the conventional.


Ottmar von Mohl (17 January 1846 – 23 March 1922) was a German diplomat and government advisor in Meiji period Japan.




https://media.gq-magazine.co.uk/photos/ ... 3_pr_b.jpg

Ralph Lauren Purple Label mens lookbook spring summer 2014 | British GQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmJvYqXHVyU

Huntsman reports that some customers have been requesting black facings with blue dinner jackets.

Noble Savage wrote: ↑

Sun May 09, 2021 1:56 am

Huntsman reports that some customers have been requesting black facings with blue dinner jackets.

Dear Noble,

this can be done vice-versa. The result should be subtle though.

Cheers, David