The London Lounge

Dear LL Members,
I am going to have for spring and summer seasons a new DB dinner jacket (4x1) made with the tonik 2000 Dormeuil fabric in a royal blue tonality.The revers will be covered with midnight blue cord silk facings purchased from Bernstein & Banleys LTD (http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk). This company sells also silk covered buttons made of the same fabric of the facings in the following sizes: ligne 22(14.2 mm)for the cuffs and ligne 30(19 mm) or ligne 36(22.9 mm)for the front buttons. As I am not sure about the proper size of front buttons to be chosen for my DB jacket I have asked advices to the Bernstein Company that told me that the ligne 36 size is appropriate for a DB jacket whereas the ligne 30 is the right size for a SB jacket. As in Italy ligne 32 button (20mm ) is used as standard size for jacket front buttons (both SB and DB) I am afraid that ligne 36 size could be too big and ligne 30 too small; for this reason I have not yet made any purchase. Does anyone have personal experience with ligne 36 front buttons for a DB dinner jacket? I will strongly appreciate any advice about.

Thanks in advance ,
Angelo

Dear Angelo,
You just made me go and measure the buttons of my dinner jackets.
Both jackets are British bespoke made.
The one button on the SB is 18.75 mm and the six on the DB are 20 mm. I´m a tall guy and I think I could have used a bit bigger buttons than those without spoiling any balance.
Provided you´re not very much on the "petit" side, I would go for ligne 36 without hesitation.

In the UK, ligne 32 and ligne 36 are the standard for SB and DB jackets respectively, regardless of chest size.

Those standards might help with the costs and predictability of the industry, particularly when the buttons and the buttonholes are sewn and cut by machine, but IMO don´t make much sense for the best balance of the front of a jacket. A little variance in size, depending on the jacket´s magnitude (or some other factor like whether the buttons are covered in grainy grosgrain, shiny satin or bulkier leather) is more desirable.

Dear Hectorm and Frederic ,thank You very much for Your comments and suggestions.

Hectorm wrote
Those standards might help with the costs and predictability of the industry, particularly when the buttons and the buttonholes are sewn and cut by machine, but IMO don´t make much sense for the best balance of the front of a jacket. A little variance in size, depending on the jacket´s magnitude (or some other factor like whether the buttons are covered in grainy grosgrain, shiny satin or bulkier leather) is more desirable.

I completely agree that depending on the jacket' magnitude , style (SB or DB) , category (country wear, city wear) and type of required buttons a little variance in size (plus or minus) as regards standards ones can represents the most appropriate choice.For example DB navy blazer can properly have gilt,silver or enamel front buttons up tp 25 mm.
Angelo