The London Lounge

I would appreciate some guidance please.

I have just put my LL Blue Barleycorn Donegal into production and asked for crescent / mezzaluna pockets as I think they will work well on that fabric. I was anticipating that as they have a curved top, that they would therefore be flapless, however my tailor insisted he would put flaps on them. Am I being silly - or is he?

Glenroyal wrote:I was anticipating that as they have a curved top, that they would therefore be flapless, however my tailor insisted he would put flaps on them. Am I being silly - or is he?

Dear Glenroyal,

I'm afraid it is not you who is silly...
http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... o+3#p77058

Cheers, David

Glenroyal wrote:[...] Am I being silly - or is he?

History provides the answer, as always. The Duke championed both styles, although he doesn't seem very happy in the version without flaps.

Dear Federico,

good find. I must have slept once in a while during history lessons

Back to Glenroyal's coat: with a cloth as substantial as the barleycorn Donegal, I would not do the flapped version...

Cheers, David

Frederic Leighton wrote:
... although he doesn't seem very happy in the version without flaps.

Unpopular at home, dodgy health, married to Mrs. Simpson for 30+ years-- sure, I'd blame the pockets.

How generous of you not to mention the height - I'm [happily] just one inch taller.

Glenroyal wrote: I was anticipating that as they have a curved top, that they would therefore be flapless, however my tailor insisted he would put flaps on them. Am I being silly - or is he?

I only own one jacket with mezzaluna pockets and they are flapless.
A mezzaluna flap is an oddly shaped piece of fabric forcefully added to the jacket and will kill the beauty of the besom curved closure (double edging at the slit).
Those pockets sag a bit, though.

Dear All,

Thank you very much for your astute replies to my mezzaluna question; it's a real pleasure to have the benefit of wisdom from such august members.

My concern was initially one of practicality - how could one have a curved hinge? but having seen the photo of Duke's flapped mezzalunas it has changed into an aesthetic one -

Hectorm said:

"A mezzaluna flap is an oddly shaped piece of fabric forcefully added to the jacket and will kill the beauty of the besom curved closure (double edging at the slit).
Those pockets sag a bit, though." elegantly put ... although to my eyes the slight 'sag' evident in the 'unhappy' flapless photograph actually serves to accetuate the beauty of the detail.

Thank you again.

Glenroyal wrote: - how could one have a curved hinge?

That´s what I meant by "oddly shaped piece of fabric". The flap can never follow the mezzaluna shape exactly unless it´s a very mild curve. Its upper edge has to be almost straight to allow for a good hinge; the lower may or may not follow the mezzaluna pocket shape. There´s always some compromise. Some may like the final shape and even say that it contributes to the elegant line of the coat. In the case of Windsor´s plus four suit, I have to admit is very well done but I still think the true beauty of the mezzaluna double curved edges is lost hidden by the flap.

Concordia wrote:

Frederic Leighton wrote:
... although he doesn't seem very happy in the version without flaps.

Unpopular at home, dodgy health, married to Mrs. Simpson for 30+ years-- sure, I'd blame the pockets.

I have such pockets on my jacket from Musella Dembech:
http://www.muselladembechmilano.com/pos ... h-belt-and

I prefer the flapless version for all jackets. I have just one suit with flaps and I wear them usually put inside the pockets as if it is a flapless jacket.

I am also short and prefer to skip such details like pocket flaps and trouser turn-ups which could easily make the body proportions more visible.