Tweed coats - collar lining

[bond_and_beyond]

I am having a coat made out of the lovely Molloy Donegal tweed and am debating with myself whether to go for a felt lining under the collar (the standard approach) or use the tweed cloth there instead?

What do the eminent members here choose for their tweeds?

Thanks,
BB

[davidhuh]

Dear BB,

nothing speaks against using the tweed if you have enough cloth - all my tweed coats are made this way. I don't know where the felt lining tradition is coming from - perhaps from WWII rationing? Some old tailor might know.

Some people like to play using contrast felt. I find it as tasteful as unbuttoning sleeve buttons

Cheers, David

[Frederic Leighton]

I don't know where the felt lining tradition is coming from - perhaps from WWII rationing?

Much earlier than that. I've just checked my older items (1890-1920) and all have the back of the collar in a different cloth.

[bond_and_beyond]

That's interesting. Does the felt serve another purpose, for example does it help the back of the collar retain its shape better than other materials?

[Frederic Leighton]

That's interesting. Does the felt serve another purpose, for example does it help the back of the collar retain its shape better than other materials?

It must have, or have had, a technical purpose, helping to achieve a wanted result. It must be a relic of the time when summer-weight was 650grams and you want the back of the collar to be thinner or bend more easily than a double layer of thick cloth, I first thought. But the practice is invariably retained and found on garment of lighter (=normal) weight as well.

[Luca]

Some people like to play using contrast felt. I find it as tasteful as unbuttoning sleeve buttons

I find the whole contrast details / loud linings fashion tacky.

[bond_and_beyond]

Just discussed this with my tailor, and he told me that the melton / felt lining was used as it gives a sharper finish as it stretches better than most cloth. In addition, as the Molloy is so heavy, if we went for self lining, the collar would be a bit thicker, like that on an overcoat. He was happy to do either, but I chose to go for the melton / felt for the sharpness (though perhaps that is not so important on a tweed coat ) and the thickness of the collar.

BB

[Frederic Leighton]

Just discussed this with my tailor, and he told me that the melton / felt lining was used as it gives a sharper finish as it stretches better than most cloth. In addition, as the Molloy is so heavy, if we went for self lining, the collar would be a bit thicker, like that on an overcoat. He was happy to do either, but I chose to go for the melton / felt for the sharpness (though perhaps that is not so important on a tweed coat ) and the thickness of the collar. BB

The Molloy tweed also stretches quite a lot, so the only issue would be the resulting thickness. I also went for the Melton.

[Kayak81]

I had had the collar on my Barleycorn Tweed (made by Molloy and even heavier than their standard cloths) self-lined and I don't see any problem with it at all. I also had the lapels made slightly bigger than normal with a button underneath so the collar can be raised, and the lapels closed and buttoned on a cold day. I haven't actually needed to do this yet, but I think it gives the coat some extra versatility. I don't think it would look very nice if you did this with a felt-lined collar, though. It takes about an extra 0.3 m. of fabric for the self-lined collar and bigger lapels.

[hectorm]

to go for a felt lining under the collar (the standard approach) or use the tweed cloth there instead?

I had had the collar on my Barleycorn Tweed (made by Molloy and even heavier than their standard cloths) self-lined and I don't see any problem with it at all.

I agree 100% with Kayak81. All the plain donegals from Molloy & Sons are at around 20 oz. The herringbones are even heavier.
But...they are really flexible. I don´t see any problem with self lining a collar. On the contrary. I believe that any jacket at that weight should be cut with a collar you can turn up and it would look much more natural (same colour and thickness) if the under collar material is the same that under the lapels.