Flannel odd trousers - Harrisons and Fox

[Frederic Leighton]

As other fellow Loungers with more complete wardrobes are rotating their flannels out, I'm eventually ready to have some flannel odd trousers made to wear with tweed coats. Now I'm also a bit more familiar with my tailor's timing and know when it's better to start thinking about Autumn I'm likely to commission three pairs; light-grey, mid-grey and ivory. 400g and above is my usual choice for bespoke orders, but I'm not familiar with woollen flannels. Few questions arise:

Fox flannels look great (thank you again, David, for introducing me to it!), although I can't find there that light shade of grey that makes me want flannel odd trousers. How does Fox's Mid-Grey (CBT5 A1285/22) compare to Harrisons' light-grey flannel (39249 in the Flannel book) in terms of colour and to Harrisons flannels in terms of weight and quality?

Harrisons 39247-9 flannels seems to be woollen flannels on the screen of my computer, but some feedback from the real world would be much appreciated. As for ivory, I guess there is little alternative to Fox's Cricket White. Is this light-weight flannel a good option now that its heavier version seems to be out of production?

Thank you for any help and advice!

[davidhuh]

Salve Federico,

Fox flannels look great (thank you again, David, for introducing me to it!), although I can't find there that light shade of grey that makes me want flannel odd trousers. How does Fox's Mid-Grey (CBT5 A1285/22) compare to Harrisons' light-grey flannel (39249 in the Flannel book) in terms of colour and to Harrisons flannels in terms of weight and quality?

Harrisons 39247-9 flannels seems to be woollen flannels on the screen of my computer, but some feedback from the real world would be much appreciated.

Computer screen pictures can be misleading, I never trust them. There are no bad intentions, just too many factors influencing what you see. Both Fox and Harrisons will send you swatches so you can compare. You may also want to look at the Minnis flannel collection; they have three shades of grey (I can imagine you prefer fifty, but so be it).

As for ivory, I guess there is little alternative to Fox's Cricket White. It this light-weight flannel a good option now that its heavier version seems to be out of production?

Their light weight is perfect for a waistcoat, not for trousering. Ask them if they do another run for winter, it may well be in their pipeline.

Cheers, David

[Man at C&A]

I've worn my Fox 10oz whites a couple of times now, both occasions at the practice nets. They were cut a little closer than I was hoping for and already showing a bit of stretching around the knees and piling on the fork. I'm somewhat disappointed.

However it has only been 3 and a half years since I ordered a suit for my wedding and my tailor steered me away from Fox towards the Minnis book because Fox were a bugger to deal with. Nothing ever in stock, emails not replied too. That they still exist is a cause for celebration, the wonderful cloth they now offer in the heavier weights is miraculous.

Don't ignore the Smiths book, my personal favourite for odd flannel trousers. There's some nice mid weight greys in there. To echo the advice above, it is almost impossible to judge a cloth from a webpage and wouldn't order on the strength of a photo, with the exception of Club offerings.

[Frederic Leighton]

To echo the advice above, it is almost impossible to judge a cloth from a webpage and wouldn't order on the strength of a photo [...]

Thank you David, thank you Man at C&A for the good advice! I certainly won't order cloth on the base of a photo. It happens that my tailor is away for two weeks--his first holiday in twenty years or so--and I'm trying to make a bit of order in my mind before seeing the books.

I'll check Minnis books, although I remember reading it's mostly worsted flannels. I'll make sure to see also Smith's flannels. Fox is sending me swatches. Their customer service seemed very efficient today. They emailed me back to confirm - they will be weaving more 370g white flannel shortly; it will be in the on-line store within the next 8-12 weeks. Good news, isn't it?!

[Screaminmarlon]

Hi Federico,
happy for your decision. MINNIS makes a great woolen flannel (and so do FOX and Harrisons, the real standout is the LL flannell ): the lighter one is about 13/14oz, but I'd consider the heavier one at 17oz.
Pity there isn't any light gray in the heavier version, that would be sweet,
saluti
M.

[Frederic Leighton]

MINNIS makes a great woolen flannel (and so do FOX and Harrisons, the real standout is the LL flannell): the lighter one is about 13/14oz, but I'd consider the heavier one at 17oz. Pity there isn't any light gray in the heavier version [...]

Thank you, Screaminmarlon - at this point, I certainly need alternatives to Fox's A1285/22.

Despite seeing trousers made up in this cloth before--and they looked great--I'm disappointed by the swatches I received today. The shade is a bit too dark for what I'm looking for, but what I really don't like is the weight. I only have two suits this light (370g) in my wardrobe. I use them in the summer and I don't like the way the fabric hangs on me. They will be replaced by linen at some point.

I know flannel wears warmer than other cloths, but I generally don't have a problem wearing heavier cloths (particularly true for heavier trousers). There is the heavier weight flannel that Fox doesn't recommend for trousers, but it's not the colour I want. It would be great to see two or three solid greys in the Fox+LL collection - I guess they would be a very popular option for such a classic item of clothing.

[davidhuh]

Thank you, Screaminmarlon - at this point, I certainly need alternatives to Fox's A1285/22.

Despite seeing trousers made up in this cloth before--and they looked great--I'm disappointed by the swatches I received today. The shade is a bit too dark for what I'm looking for, but what I really don't like is the weight. I only have two suits this light (370g) in my wardrobe. I use them in the summer and I don't like the way the fabric hangs on me. They will be replaced by linen at some point.

Dear Federico,

hm, perhaps a matter of taste? Fox's A1285/22 are my standard grey flannel trousers which I'm wearing from September to April, I have several of them. They are definitely too warm for summer. While I would not make up a coat with the material, I find them perfect to combine with odd coats and tweed, and they hang nicely on me .
Perhaps you really need to look at the Minnis material. I have just one pair, the material seems a little more heavy and dense, and they have more choice in grey. I have no experience with Smith book mentioned by C&A, but you should check it out as well.

Cheers, David

[C.Lee]

Caro Federico,

Between London's skies and its standing as a tailoring centre, there should be a grey to suit. Here is a reference card - some will be familiar to you, and hopefully others new:



Tread carefully: you may find yourself looking for further tweed jacketings to wear with your flannel odd trousers!

Saluti.

[Frederic Leighton]

Here is a reference card - some will be familiar to you, and hopefully others new: [...] Tread carefully: you may find yourself looking for further tweed jacketings to wear with your flannel odd trousers!

Dear C.Lee, many thanks for this Easter present! The Minnis and Harrisons swatches look really promising! My tailor opens tomorrow after his deserved holiday - I'll make sure to be in front of the shop for when he arrives at 7am

And thank you again, David, for sharing your experience!

[mimile]

I have a suit made with the Minnis 0317. It hangs like steel and wears like a worsted. Very soft touch. Perfect for the winter.

[Scot]

I have two identical pairs of mid-grey flannel trousers from a Scabal bunch. Not sure about the weight but it is probably not much more than 11-12 oz. Scabal and light-weight flannel will not be well-received on the LL but I have found they wear rather well. They are an ideal combo with brown/green tweed and are not too warm in summer.

[Frederic Leighton]

UPDATE - Minnis' flannel looks nicer than Harrison's and Fox's looks nicer than Minnis'. I dropped the initial thought of light-grey trousers, the unlikely attempt to catch two birds with one stone, and went for a double-order instead:

- cream trousers (Fox's, 400g),
- mid-grey trousers (Minnis', 400g, #0301).

The works started only yesterday, when I went to see my tailor for the usual remarks about my unusual hips The order includes a cream waistcoat I'm very much looking forward to (Fox's flannel). It will also be the first time I have something made in a LL fabric... For the trousers, my tailor mentioned a 'double-crotch' option for increased durability. I accepted without even knowing or asking how this is done

More Members busy commissioning new flannels?

[Russell]

UPDATE - ..... For the trousers, my tailor mentioned a 'double-crotch' option for increased durability. I accepted without even knowing or asking how this is done

Frederic - I assume your tailor had your previous 'encounter' in mind?

. by Frederic Leighton » Fri Jan 24, 2014 10:14 pm

Excuse me, sir... Just one question. I have noticed your suit. How many vents does it have?

Canary Wharf, Jubilee line, 9.21pm. A man with unidentified accent to me, while I sit behind my Evening Standard. I answer, not without some concern (will the following question be about my underwear?).



Regards
Russell

[Man at C&A]

More Members busy commissioning new flannels?

I'm considering another pair of lightweight white Fox, but this time in a fuller cut. My previous pair have survived but are too tight to play cricket. I'm also commissioning a pair in Hunt & Winterbotham cream flannel. This a light grey marl rather than a cream and rather attractive

[Frederic Leighton]

Frederic - I assume your tailor had your previous 'encounter' in mind? [...]

Dear Russell, good memory! It's nice to have people like yourself around - they remind you that everything in this life is meant to be just as it is

I'm also commissioning a pair in Hunt & Winterbotham cream flannel. This a light grey marl rather than a cream and rather attractive

Man at C&A, it would be great to read your review of these two options! Is the Hunt & Winterbotham part of the Winter Classics Collection? What weight is this flannel?