The London Lounge

As usual, I buy what I don't need and don't buy what I need.

So I find myself in urgent need of a pair of black shoes to wear with my suits.

My suits tend to be more slick and shyster-like than conservative-English, so I don't want something too fuddy duddy.

I do have a few pair of black shoes but they are so dated, pointy and odd as to hint at the
unreliability, flightiness and moral decrepitude of their wearer.

I am in need of a pair of black shoes which will testify to my good character and stability, a pair of shoes to wear to court, if you will.

So, I need black, I need English and I need staid and sober to wear with dark grey and blue suits and I only need one pair as I need them just for this one, future business-like purpose.
And I hate black shoes anyway.

What should I get? Just one pair.

Oxfords are hard to wear- I have a high instep. And they have to be English. And they have to engender trust and certitude in the beholder. They should make a statement of high moral character. You get the point.

Otherwise, I am open for your recommendations.

You could get something very nearly English-looking by going with a Vass P2 oxford-- which has a pretty high instep. It fits me, anyway, and I don't tend to squeeze into RTW English oxfords very well.

Otherwise, if you don't want to leave England's makers and can't find an oxford that fits, a simple cap-toe derby, with or without a little brogueing, should serve. Crockett & Jones has a few options, and Edward Green will, of course. The Elmsley, with a punch-cap, would meet your needs. Girling & Gaziano's Eton or Buccleuch models are a tad racier-looking, although probably within your style needs. I don't know how they fit.

uppercase wrote:I am in need of a pair of black shoes which will testify to my good character and stability, a pair of shoes to wear to court, if you will. So, I need black, I need English and I need staid and sober to wear with dark grey and blue suits and I only need one pair as I need them just for this one, future business-like purpose.
What should I get? Just one pair.

Given all the conditions set above, a pair of black cap-toe oxfords is the best option by far. I don´t think a pair of derbys will make you look better, and certainly not in the more formal occasions.
As Concordia says, there are many, many possibilities, but the high step shoes from Lazlo Vass -although dubbed "Old English"- is not IMO one of them. Those shoes look Central European to me and even a bit odd if I may add. My advice is: hit the English shoe stores and try several cap-toe oxfords to see how they fit your high instep.

As usual, I buy what I don't need and don't buy what I need.

That goes to show there is hope for you UC!

My two pair of black cap toe oxfords are Ed Green. They gather dust all year, and get a good polish and wear about once a year, either funerals or marriages...same thing.

Stroll down Jermyn Street, hit EG, CJ and Lobb...and you will find what you need.

Ps Weston used to have a beauty of a cap toe oxford, only in black but I think they threw it out, with all their best models, with the bath water a few years ago. But you might take a look.

Cheers

Here is my humble experience depending on how much you are ready to pay: Sanders for low price (150 British pounds, excellent quality for the money), Church's and C&J (350-400 BP) and Finally EG and Lobb ( above 600 now). If you don't live in the UK and you know your size, you can order some of these online.

Brouging makes a shoe less formal, wouldn't it?

I think that I'll go with just a plain cap toe and hope that I can fit into an oxford.

I'll spend the money for the best looking, best quality shoe. What the hell.
Particularly for an undecorated black shoe, top quality is necessary as the lack thereof is really going to show.

I wish I could just buy a dark oak Oxford but black is required.

The trouble is that when I walk into a shoe store, I get distracted from the purpose at hand. That's why I have a few EGs with strange colors and ill considered lasts which I rarely wear. Not to mention the other pointy toe Italians I was seduced into buying. But that wasn't my fault…it was the merchandising and the sales pitch that made me do it.

I look forward to getting my black shoes. I'm sure that they'll make me feel like a better citizen.

You might want to try Shipton and Heneage; they have both a shop and an online store. Both Crocket and Jones, and Sanders, make for them, and they sell good sturdy mid-range shoes. I have been very happy with their service when buying online; small issues with fit were very willingly ironed out and I am a satisfied customer.

Black is certainly worth having, and plain cap-toe will give you the least grief if you need to dress it up with a fine suit.

Although it would remove one from British taste a little, be aware that there are many with high arches who would be happy with something like this http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-mens-s ... van.html-- and in the US, only Manton and three other people would likely notice. Remember-- if it doesn't fit comfortably, you won't wear it.

I would go with a black brogue with a nice, high-gloss finish.

I know, I know, in the same theoretical idea by which a piqué, turn-down collar tuxedo shirt is "semi-formal", brogues are "country shoes".
In reality, outside of, maybe (and I do mean maybe) the Coldstream Guards' officers' mess, polished black brogues are rather formal shoes but nice looking ones, with visual interest. I find plain, toe-cap Oxfords are just borderline officious. If I owned just one pair of black lace-ups, they would not be it.

Yes uppercase, although many 'hate' these black cap-toe oxfords these are the only one you can wear for a wedding, a funeral, to work and nowadays with Tuxedos.

There really can be something austere and off-putting in a pair of black shoes. But using a little hard wax and water, making them shine and blacker than black, remains something magical to me.

These Churchill Consuls have been recommended to me as the one pair to own.
They do have that quiet, conservative look I wanted. Rounded toe, thick sole etc.
I've never owned churchills nor seen the shoe in person.
They are exactly the kind of shoe I would never have bought…so they may be just what I need!

What say you?

http://www.church-footwear.com/en/UK/ma ... nder-black

The same basic animal as the EG Chelsea or the G&G Oxford (I think). The classic shoe to have if you have only one. There will be opinions on which one is the best made or has the best leather, but start with what fits best.

BTW, if those are thick soles, what do you normally wear? Ballet slippers?

UC, do check the leather—I may be wrong, but I think the "polished binder" leather is their corrected-grain leather. If so, they would be easier to care for than calf (which they also offer at the same price) but will look more like patent leather or plastic and will crease more readily. The style is just what you want. I'd recommend it in the black calf.

Take a look at the C&J Lowndes; a double buckle monk with cap toe. Sleek, and just a bit flash.