The London Lounge

Dear Gentlemen,
Do any of you have a suit made of Molloy & Sons Donegal Tweed, the #0701 series at 545g/m, and can give some feedback about trousers in this cloth?

My tailor finds it very elastic and recommends lined trousers - I will certainly follow his advice, but at the same time wonder whether someone else chose differently. At Molloy & Sons I got very generic feedback: "No lining, half lined, fully lined - it's up to you".

There are already many threads about trousers and tweed, trousers and lining and trousering choices. Here I look forward to hearing from those of you who have some experience with this exact cloth. Thank you!

I'd have though that tweed should be, at least, half lined. Well, unless you can bear the scratchiness of it!

Frederic Leighton wrote: At Molloy & Sons I got very generic feedback: "No lining, half lined, fully lined - it's up to you".

There are already many threads about trousers and tweed, trousers and lining and trousering choices. Here I look forward to hearing from those of you who have some experience with this exact cloth. Thank you!

Understandable enough as Molloy aren't tailors and won't know your own preferences. I've a suit in the same range and got them lined to below the knee in front and back.

Thank you, Cathach, for sharing your experience. I read more than once in this forum the suggestion to get in touch with the cloth makers and ask them whether the cloth is suitable for trousers and/or requires particular care, which I found a sensible suggestion since sometimes it isn't just about personal preference.

Frederic Leighton wrote:Thank you, Cathach, for sharing your experience. I read more than once in this forum the suggestion to get in touch with the cloth makers and ask them whether the cloth is suitable for trousers and/or requires particular care, which I found a sensible suggestion since sometimes it isn't just about personal preference.

True enough, but that is mainly to do with jacketings vs suitings. Certain cloths may be looser or softer than others e.g. Shetlands and not durable enough to be made into trousers. Lining them would be down to personal preference, although tailors maintain that lining to below the knee by reducing drag on the cloth may help stop the trousers from becoming baggy or stretching at the knees.

Half-dozen* wearings over the last three weeks and the fabric is already taking a distinctly different look. I feel part of a slightly blurred photo as 'protruding' fibers progressively soften the lines of my three piece suit. Not sure what it will look like at the end of its first year, though. I loved it so much, that a second suit in the same cloth (different colour and cut) is half-way in the making.

* Half-dozen is also the number of times I took the coat back to my tailor for little fixes over these first three weeks. I'm surprised he's still offering me coffee when I visit him I'm glad people like him still exist.

Frederic Leighton wrote:Half-dozen* wearings over the last three weeks and the fabric is already taking a distinctly different look. I feel part of a slightly blurred photo as 'protruding' fibers progressively soften the lines of my three piece suit. Not sure what it will look like at the end of its first year, though. I loved it so much, that a second suit in the same cloth (different colour and cut) is half-way in the making.

It does fluff out a bit in wear and then wears down again over time. Would love to see photos of what you went with.

cathach wrote:It does fluff out a bit in wear and then wears down again over time. Would love to see photos of what you went with.

Thank you for the feedback, Cathach. Would love to see photos of yours too!

Went for a walk along the Thames today. In London the temperature is 8C - very enjoyable. Wanted to try the tie I finished knitting two days ago - pure wool, Donegal tweed 'effect'. More photos of the suit here. The cut is taken from a 1917 fashion plate; my tailor officially hated me, but I know he enjoyed doing something different from the usual.


Tweed and black shoes. Cannon kindly provided by the Royal Arsenal, Greenwich. Ready to defend my own opinion from the attacks of fashion bloggers.



Hello!

Well done with that – well done to your (initially unwilling) tailor as well.

Not a cut that's right for me but that’s hardly the point of course - it’s a delight to see someone getting what they want especially when it’s well done & ‘easy on the eye’.

I’ve given some of the LL Donegal (from Molloy) a lot of wear over the last three or so years & it’s very durable.

Regards
Russell

PS I assume the cannon is loaded with rolled London Fashion Week programmes?

Dear Federico,

your Donegal looks brilliant. I love it!

Congratulations and no worries, your tailor will love you

David

Something different indeed but I like it. It seems to be a very versatile suit too, with the vest and the option of a true three button closure. Nice to see a trimmer fit on the LL.

Is there both canvas and horsehair inside? Might the jacket start getting a little baggy, than isn't t hat part of the charm of such a cloth?

Wonderful realisation of your concept, and worn very well too. You look so at ease in these clothes and that's half the battle.

Niiiiice.

Dear Russell, David, T.K., Rob and Luca - thank you for having 'gentle' and actually very nice words for suit and tailor. I passed them on to him, explaining how much they count as they come from gentlemen with far more experience in bespoke tailoring than mine.

I'm particularly glad to hear that the suit is "easy on the eye", to use Russell's words, as I don't really have any aggressive intention I just try to remember what makes me the happiest (that's me respecting the person I am, rather than trying to be someone else) and let all the rest happen by itself.

I don't like visiting him with my hands empty and always try to bring croissants, pastries or slices of cakes for the tailor. As he's on a diet, this is why he will really hate me soon or late

To answer T.K.'s question, yes - the construction is traditional in all respects. Due to prominent bones of my chest leaving some 'empty holes', he gave structure to the waistcoat (which I really love) using fused canvas; he reassured this is also the traditional way. Not sure what's the standard on the Row. He didn't try to simplify the design at all. When he mentioned that the two back pockets alone (photo below) took him longer than all the rest of the trousers, I realized I had passed the line and spontaneously promised no back pockets at all on the next pair The trousers are the exact replica of a pair of vintage 1930's morning trousers already in my wardrobe. Veeery high rise - the pockets are basically just below my armpits. Yes, the perfect choice for your personal belongings, as London is quite dangerous these days

Thanks Federico for the elaboration. I am the one learning here. I have a bunch of swatches from Molloy & Sons that also includes the cloth you have used. Very interesting to see it now in full effect. I can hardly believe you have passed a line with your tailor, unless he dislikes making great things .

On a side note, I have been looking for an eight piece cap not as full as what is standard. Did you get yours recently? Or is it another vintage piece?