The London Lounge

Fellow Loungers,

I am coming to NY in the following weeks and plan to buy at least one new pair of trousers, RTW, for use with [bespoke and MTM] odd jackets. Where could I go in the city for a good-enough pair of RTW trousers?

Thanks, LG

Dear Luis,
I´m not going to be breaking any ground here.
If you come to New York for RTW trousers you have to go to Brooks Brothers on Madison Avenue. The best branch of the best store for RTW. And there are excellent tailors on the premises.
I believe that they can have your cuffs finished for the next day (if you ask them nicely). When you´re back, if anything else is needed, you can go to the top floor and play pool while you wait.

I will be there later in June and will also follow your advice, hectorm. Thank you!

Dear Hectorm,
Many thanks, I'll check it out.
Best,
Luis

My preferred choice is Paul Stuart which is next to Brooks at 45th St. They have a good selection of pants with D ring side adjustors.

Dear Mark,

I´ll try both and tell you later my choice.

Many thanks for the advice.
LG

Dear Igcintra,
Look by all means and I hope you are successful. My own experience however, is that the cloth used in bespoke and mtm ( depending where it is bought) is so much superior to any RTW options available that when put next to each other the quality difference stands out. One only has to look at LL cloth prices, the cost of which is often significantly greater than the cost of completed RTW trousers, to see what I mean. RTW is completed to a budget and corners have to be cut. You may find it more satisfactory to source some mtm trousers using cloths of similar standard to your jackets, but this is clearly a more expensive option.
Regards

Dear MRJ,

Many thanks for the advice.

I usually make my suits and jackets with a taylor in Rome and another in Rio. I am completely satisfied with both; both have different approaches and different styles and I wear them in accordance to my needs, the Italian cloths are more relaxed and my Portuguese-Brazilian taylor makes more structured, formal suits. That´s perfect for me. I will return to them for suits and jackets, but I deemed prices for odd trousers to be a little expensive for my budget at this time. I concur with you entirely that the quality of bespoke cloths is much better, but at this time my intent is solely to buy the best RTW there is (ie. in terms of style appropriate to myself) in NYC, at a price I can pay.

Best,
LG

MRJ wrote:Dear Igcintra,
Look by all means and I hope you are successful. My own experience however, is that the cloth used in bespoke and mtm ( depending where it is bought) is so much superior to any RTW options available that when put next to each other the quality difference stands out. One only has to look at LL cloth prices, the cost of which is often significantly greater than the cost of completed RTW trousers, to see what I mean. RTW is completed to a budget and corners have to be cut. You may find it more satisfactory to source some mtm trousers using cloths of similar standard to your jackets, but this is clearly a more expensive option.
Regards

I would say that the cloth in RTW trousers in Paul Stuart is quite good. I haven't priced its pants lately, but I recall a price of $400 on its best flannel pants about 10 years ago.

Paul Stuart has superior cloth as against Brooks Brothers.

Of the NYC stores I prefer Paul Stuart since it has a wide variety of sizes and styles and quality levels.

Other places with excellent RTW pieces include Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, and Saks. The cloths are all quite good.

Mark Seitelman wrote: Paul Stuart has superior cloth as against Brooks Brothers

I cannot argue against Mark on his "superior cloth" statement. But we should also take into account that Paul Stuart prices are (on average, for trousers at least) twice as high as BB´s. If you are going to spend 400-500 dollars (even more for designers at Bergdorf Goodman) for a RTW pair of pants, I believe you´d be better off if you had them MTM on the cloth and all the whims of your choice.

As compared to MTM and bespoke, Paul Stuart RTW is fairly priced. MTM and bespoke can be twice as expensive or higher.

I think that Oxxford averages about $775 or so for MTM. Perhaps a tad higher. (I am embarrassed to say that I do not look at the bill.)

The best value in custom in NYC is LS Mens Clothes. You can get pants at about $550 or so. Essentially, it can copy pants that you bring-in or a stock model from the shop. You can select from the leading merchants (e.g., Holland & Sherry, Loro Piana, etc.). Or bring your own cloth for a lower CMT price. LS also has MTM programs with Coppley and H. Freeman.

Good luck.

$550 is a shade less than WW Chan, which, while a little flimsier in the waistband than I prefer, has an excellent cut/fit and is a reliable supplier.

On the other hand, Napoli su Misura will do trousers for 330 Euros plus fabric, and they do come to NYC. So for the more patient, that is also a cost-effective option.

Concordia wrote: * * *

On the other hand, Napoli su Misura will do trousers for 330 Euros plus fabric, and they do come to NYC. So for the more patient, that is also a cost-effective option.

Not a bad price. What is the average price with cloth?

I forget. Nothing wildly more-- maybe just over $600/pair? They have many of the British standards to go with the Italian books.

Paul Winston, son of Chipp founder Sidney Winston, charges $450 - 650 for high end MTM trousers (his tailor creates the pattern & cuts the cloth, but sends them out to be made - most likely at Martin Greenfield). His price drops to $275 if you supply the cloth though. I've had a number of pairs of casual trousers made by Paul with fabric I supplied from Brisbane Moss, and overall I think it's a good value. My only complaint is that the final alterations work has been inconsistent as of late. Paul's tailor only works 2 days/week and I think he farms out a lot of his finish work out to a alterations shop with whom he shares space.