The London Lounge

A bit closer to summer (if indeed we are to have one this year) I'm looking to have made - I dislike the word 'bespeak' for some reason - a lightweight, unlined/unstructured blazer (the eternal optimist), and have been thinking about the best cloth to use. I would like something with a subtle 'movement' to it, and was considering a lightweight-wool/silk birdseye or similar, as I want to avoid pure linen .... I have a linen one already and want something which looks less crumpled / doesn't need constant pressing. Speaking to the 'assistant' in my local tailor's (the 'boss' being away for a while on health grounds) he suggested I look at Russian Twill as an option - but wasn't able to pull any samples from stock. Having explored the web, I'm still stuggling to discover exactly what the cloth is, beyond it being a combination of two yarns - usually one of which is silk or linen, in a twill weave - there appears to be no definition which helps. Can anybody advise?
Many thanks
davidd

davidd wrote: I'm looking to have made a lightweight, unlined/unstructured blazer.....the 'assistant' in my local tailor's suggested I look at Russian Twill as an option

Dear David,
the word twill is a broad generic term for a cloth woven in ribs on a diagonal pattern. Technically gabardine, denim and even tweed for example, are twills. I´m not sure what your tailor´s assistant had in mind but it could have been a twill with intricate weaving (Russian weave, a sort of braid) of the yarns.
That type of cloth would surely add an interesting texture to your jacket and probably also a good drape giving its structure.
It may be worth to follow up and request a sample patch.
Let us know.

not suitable for summer, but Ardalanish (Isle of Mull) weavers have done a twill / Russian twill mix fabric before.
you can clearly see the rows of 'Russian twill' between the regular twill:

Excellent find, workwear dandy. The Ardalanish weavers always have those unusual patterns like the diamond or the keystone .
The Russian braid adds lots of texture and interest to the tweed. And so seldom do we see it, it´s a pity.