The London Lounge

Following the advice I received on my previous two commissions, I've incorporated them and had them conveyed to a tailor I'm using in Mayfair. I'm quite pleased with how this has come along thus far, particularly since this is only the first fitting.

Please don't mind the cloth -- my tailor decided to work on some other material before actually striking the actual fabric.

This will be a blue 11/12 Oz Finmeresco (buggy-lined) blazer. Single reversible button.

Will chronicle the whole process, and naturally, any advice will be appreciated

*Ignore the disgusting tie knot and saggy trousers. Both aren't done up properly. Rainy rainy day.

Second fitting



First Fitting

Hello

For me, the coat is way too short, and the back of the collar sits too high on your shirt collar. Perhaps lengthen the sleeves a tad also.

Keep us posted as things develop.

aston wrote:Hello

For me, the coat is way too short, and the back of the collar sits too high on your shirt collar. Perhaps lengthen the sleeves a tad also.

Keep us posted as things develop.

Thank you. I do agree that the debate over coat length is extremely vociferous, with the preference for coat lengths subjective. But I deliberately chose to have it slightly shorter to compensate for my short stature. Some insights gleaned from a prior topic on the Duke's coats (http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... ?f=4&t=208), and I think I feel more comfortable in this. We'll see. The back covers my derriere.

Am surprised that the sleeve length looks short here -- it actually shows a CM of cuff, the right cuff, however, needed to be lengthened because it was shorter than the other.

Can you elaborate on the back of the collar sitting too high on the shirt? --> What's the ideal position?

From the photo, which is only a front on view, it looks as though the collar of the coat would only, if seen from the back, allow about 25% of the shirt collar to show. I would aim for about 50%, up to maybe 65% of the shirt collar to show, otherwise the risk is it looks out of proportion to the line where your neck and shoulders meet.

Rubbish description, but I hope you get my point.

Measured the back of the collars 1 1/2 inches.

It might be due to three things:

1) coat collar hitched too high up
2) shirt collar far too short
3) shirt collar too loose.

I think it might be 2 and 3 (look at my neck showing), and it's very unfortunate because I bespoke a whole slew of shirts in England that have this problem. I'll def. check with the tailor at the next stage on the collar (This isn't too late, is it?). But do you think 2 and 3 might be the causes? 3 is definitely a problem, but is it a cause.

I'm going to Naples with a few others this December, so I will probably get shirts with a higher collar. The wonders of Italian-made shirts ...

I don't see any problem with the coat length. The only problem is with the suit collar as others have already mentioned.

Dear MvM,
since you asked for advice, I would say that IMO
i. the jacket does look a bit short (maybe one inch) creating certain unbalance with too much weight at the top and giving the illusion of too much width overall (which you might not want given your height).
ii. the front quarters are too closed for a one button jacket in a light weight cloth. Are you planning for patch pockets?
iii. the sleeves seem to be too fully cut, which adds to the weight and width.
I also see a problem with the shirt collar which is low and loose. But the jacket collar seems fine (I think the high notch level looks good on you).

MvM

I suspect the coat length is fine. Its just hard to tell from the photo. We would need a full length shot to give you better input.

Sleeve length is subjective. Make sure and wear a shirt with the sleeve length you plan on wearing to the fittings so things can be calibrated well.

More open quarters would be nice but it is not an English tailors cup of tea. So don't force it.

You most serious problem is your shirt and its collar. It really pains me to hear you have ordered many of them. Wear them for casual wear and get a proper shirt made. Pay special attention to the collar. The collar is the soul and body of a shirt.

I would say "carry on" as things look fine at this stage.

Cheers

Hello OP,

I personally thinks the front might be too short, if you like it that way do ask the tailor for more cutaway. I can't tell the back but I hope they do sit below the bum, it is a pain to shave short back, it looks bad.

Because of he picture, I can't even see there is a collar gap, if there is, let your tailor know, and use the proper dress sit you intended to use, personally I will have less cuff showing.

Tie know needs some improvement, Overall the jacket looks very good, perhaps this is your first commission hence generous shoulder pads, I fear less will also do the same job.

Just out of interest, do shoulder line need to be that wide?

Charles

Thank you. I'll be speaking with my tailor on the coat length again to see if we should do it a fraction longer.

I should have included some points I left (though the cutter already picked them up) when I was there:

More open quarters (it was marked out, but one is right about English tailors tending to be parsimonious about showing some leg (skin), since it seems from the mark on the baste, it's to be taken it ever-so-slightly.
Slightly wider lapel width. This is a fraction short of 3 inches
Width of the shoulders a fraction shorter -- it's marked on the baste
Sleeves to be taken in (it's pinned up, hence the pulls at the side)
I also asked for a more shaped patch pocket --> Advisable? Am concerned about look generous around my girth.
*And you're right about the showing of cuffs. I dislike showing anything more than 1 cm once I had it down on my previous coats. Works out to be the perfect length/formula both when I move, and when I stand still.

I don't mean to rubbish all English shirt makers, but I was under the impression that London was the tailoring mecca for shirts, until I used the household names (and names frequently put out by even those in the know), and, in my opinion, I'm rather sorely disappointed. They didn't come cheap as well, with the minimum orders. Hence, I'm hoping to get my shirt pattern down pat in Naples (or in Paris ) since that will facilitate subsequent orders.

MvM

If you are at all concerned about a generous waist skip the patch pockets as they tend to widen any coat.

Its good to get information from people in the know, as long as they are not on the take as well.

When you go to Naples, stay away from the internet franchises. These are B players that were scooped up (forgive me) to provide an inexpensive net based offering. Stay away. Spend a day just walking the area and speak to people, you will find out where to go.

Cheers

Dear Marbury,

everything about the coat has been said, nothing to add. Except that this is first fitting where I tend not to intervene at all, or very little, when asked by the tailor. The second fitting is show time for me

About the shirt: it might be worthwile talking to your shirtmaker / cutter about it. Again, as a general rule, I try to sort out things with the cutter I have decided working with and would change only if this route fails. I never order too much at once, but start slowly. Ok, there are minimum orders with most shirt makers. There is a way around that. You offer paying or a deposit for the three or four, and have them made one after the other.

Every craftsman you are working with is a considerable investment on your side, both in terms of money and time. It took me two years getting my shirts from Budd the way I want them. It was well worth the effort.

cheers, David

Reversible blazer?

Internet Neapolitan shirtmakers?

I say the left shoulder might just touch the bone a wee bit and ever so slightly lift the collar off that side. Ever so slightly so it might not hug as warmly as the right. The shoulder height might be off. The left could possibly go up 1/4" the right could be lowered possibly 3/8". Both front and back shoulder point on the paper. Do you see how the right front collapses a bit ? And the left jibbs a bit? . Also, I think it best that I reserve my always humble opinion on the length. I seem to be out numbered.{but it needs more than a fraction} And could the back be a wee short ? Just a wee ?
I looked again. The back might be ok. I would have to see from the side. But the sleeves are forward. This will make them appear shorter and not settle on the shirt cuff. Sleeves hang forward if the back is short.

The sleeves are forward. Right more than left.
The arm on the low side is usually set back a bit.
Toninno Christophoro taught me this.
Lets keep him alive.
......And let me say that I am Nit Nit Nit Picking.
The shoulders are elegant ,easy and almost right ,as is the chest.
And,but for that one sliver on the left, the collar is easy and right.