The London Lounge

I was recently given a pair of cufflinks, much similar to the one in this picture and I was a bit puzzled as to how the stones were held in place. Mine are 18ct Gold as I can tell from the hallmark but at first I wasn't sure the stones were real but I assume they must be, who would make 18ct cufflinks and then put glass imitations on them, right? Anyway, if these stones are indeed precious what exactly is keeping them in place? Surely they can't be glued (that would be awful). Any ideas? Are the stones set safely you think?



How are stones usually set on such cufflinks? Thanks!

Cabochon?

Costi wrote:Cabochon?

Yes, how are they set into the cufflinks? How are they held in place? Surely using glue is only for 'fake' jewellery. I can't see glue being used for an expensive pair of cufflinks.

It is likely that the rim of the settings is built up around the stones, holding them in place.

NJS wrote:It is likely that the rim of the settings is built up around the stones, holding them in place.

Is that even technically possible?

All over the world wrote:

NJS wrote:It is likely that the rim of the settings is built up around the stones, holding them in place.

Is that even technically possible?

I am not a jeweller - but why not? You build the oversetting and insert the stones and then seal them underneath. Seems simple enough.

Precious stones are set in jewellery in different ways. One method relies on holding the stone in place with a bezel, which is a thin strip of sterling silver or gold that is soldered to the back mount. The stone is placed within the bezel and held tightly by pushing the bezel against the stone all the way around its
circumference. It's relatively easy to do, and the finishing touch is polishing the mount to a high gloss
with a buff that is touched lightly with one kind of compound or another. Sometimes a finely twisted wire of silver or gold that resembles rope is soldered to the mount to dress things up a bit. Jewellery
made for men, such as double-sided cufflinks, are typical of work done in Europe. It has a more finished appearance than its American counterpart, which is usually one-sided and relies on a toggle closure. It has all the aesthetics of the underside of a suspension bridge.

Copper is the least expensive metal a jeweller will use, and it can be patinated in numerous ways that are attractive. Silver is the next step up. Then gold, which is usually yellow in color, or white, or rose or green, or purple. All of these metals are soldered. The only metal that isn't is platinum, which is
welded. It's ungodly expensive, but jewellers love working with it.

Not all the stones you see set in jewellery are precious gems. Many are nothing more than faceted pieces of glass that are dipped in dyes or irradiated with colored oils, then backed with colored foils
to intensify the color of the gems. If you buy loose gemstones, buyer beware. Cautious buyers will bring along a white cotton square and rub the stone against it. If there's a trace of color on the cotton, go elsewhere. If the seller refuses to let you rub the stone on the cotton, call him for what he is--a gonif--and leave.

JMB