Sun Aug 28, 2011 2:38 am
Precious stones are set in jewellery in different ways. One method relies on holding the stone in place with a bezel, which is a thin strip of sterling silver or gold that is soldered to the back mount. The stone is placed within the bezel and held tightly by pushing the bezel against the stone all the way around its
circumference. It's relatively easy to do, and the finishing touch is polishing the mount to a high gloss
with a buff that is touched lightly with one kind of compound or another. Sometimes a finely twisted wire of silver or gold that resembles rope is soldered to the mount to dress things up a bit. Jewellery
made for men, such as double-sided cufflinks, are typical of work done in Europe. It has a more finished appearance than its American counterpart, which is usually one-sided and relies on a toggle closure. It has all the aesthetics of the underside of a suspension bridge.
Copper is the least expensive metal a jeweller will use, and it can be patinated in numerous ways that are attractive. Silver is the next step up. Then gold, which is usually yellow in color, or white, or rose or green, or purple. All of these metals are soldered. The only metal that isn't is platinum, which is
welded. It's ungodly expensive, but jewellers love working with it.
Not all the stones you see set in jewellery are precious gems. Many are nothing more than faceted pieces of glass that are dipped in dyes or irradiated with colored oils, then backed with colored foils
to intensify the color of the gems. If you buy loose gemstones, buyer beware. Cautious buyers will bring along a white cotton square and rub the stone against it. If there's a trace of color on the cotton, go elsewhere. If the seller refuses to let you rub the stone on the cotton, call him for what he is--a gonif--and leave.
JMB