Dressing Gowns

[Simon A]

Georgia and Iran had a common, and highly fractious, border for almost two millenia, until Russia annexed Western Azerbaijan in 1812. It still has a large border to its south and east with the former Iranian province of Azerbaijan. Georgia's population is almost 10% Iranian, including well-integrated Muslim Azeris, Kurds and Zoroastrian Persians; India and the Russian Empire were the two places Zoroastrians ("fire worshippers") could successfully flee from Islamic persecution, and Paisley was a motif they took with them. Eastern Georgian dress is heavily influenced by Persian dress (including open-sleeves and super-long sleeves on tunics) and many of the names of articles of clothing here are of Persian origin.

I should add, when living in a country with the oldest archaeological evidence of textile technology (34,000 years), and the oldest winemaking technology (8000 years) in the world, local people see a couple of centuries as the blink of an eye......

[castiglione]

Thank you for a very informative posting. Indeed what you say is the absolute truth. But the most interesting part of all-for me anyway, is that, even today, you considered Azerbaijan a Persian province. After all 1812 happened only 200 years ago. It shows how alive history can be. At the same time it shows how difficult might prove to try and solve the regional problems. But enough off-topics for now. Thanks again.

[~ Monsieur Xu ~]

Dear Costi. I left behind this kind of fake orientalism and went for the real thing instead. A chinese Changshan. Linen thicker or thinner according to season. I positively dislike to wear pants at home and I have found the way. Highly recomended. You definitely have a Fu Man Chu or Dr. No appearance but since you are out of sight so to speak who cares? I do not consider silk or cashmere for I find them frail. Here you have a pic. Mine are lined and therefore warmer though one is unlined for the comfort of summer. My Changshans are also of darker shades.
PS.- Pants are an anglicism for pantalon in French. But do you happen to know what a "pantalon" means in the US?

Dear Castiglione, I applaud your adoption of the changshan as your new default housewear, it is indeed a very comfortable garment oweing to its long, flowing nature. A little bit of backstory - the changshan (长衫) translates literally into long shirt, and is, as Simon A mentioned, not traditional Han Chinese dress. It was the traditional national dress of the Manchu race, one of the 55 ethnic minorities of China which together comprise about 8% of the population of Mainland China (while the Han majority make up 92%). The changshan was forcefully imposed on the conquered Han Chinese when the Manchus invaded China and established the Qing Dynasty, the last Chinese imperial dynasty. But it is important to note that the changshan which was worn then, up to the overthrow of Imperial rule and the establishment of the Republic of China in 1911, was considered a middle-layer garment to be worn under a magua (a sleeveless waistcoat of sorts with silk knots and a fur collar in cold weather). The entire ensemble was meant for practical wear while horseriding, betraying the equestrian roots of the Manchurian culture.

From 1911 onwards, the magua was done away with and the changshan gained a "mandarin collar" ("li ling" in Mandarin), having been collarless hitherto. The changshan during the Republic of China era (1911-1949) was modernised and worn over Western trousers and leather shoes, with the traditional Chinese undergarments below (analogous to the Western shirt). This style of dress is still considered extremely formal dress in the ROC today (which occupies Taiwan province), and can still be seen at tony functions of the Taipei elite.

Linen and worsted wool was the traditional material for this modern changshan, in colours similar to the Western suit (navy, air force blue, charcoal, light grey and cream were all seen). In fact, the modernised changshan was considered analogous to the Western suit during those tumultuous times, worn with a fedora and overcoat and fur scarf. Such an ensemble communicated an affinity with traditional Chinese values, at a time when such values came under great scrutiny, whereas those Chinese who received a Western education were clad in full Western bespokery. The changshan therefore was the symbol of the scholar class, which was the old ruling class of Imperial China, although in contemporary times a changshan paired with round sunglasses evokes the "Shanghai Tan" or mafia don image anywhere in Asia. It would take a great deal of ignorance and a dearth of useful cultural references for an onlooker to think of Fu Manchu or Dr No (he actually wore a Zhongshan suit - long story!) on first glance.

I recall donning a heavy silk changshan on the first day of the 2009 Spring Festival in London, when it was snowing madly in Piccadilly. I eschewed the shirt and just wore the robe with a mink scarf and handpainted scholar fan, and felt sufficiently warm, and so can attest that heavy silk is unbelievably insulating in cold weather. I cannot imagine not wearing trousers though, as there are high slits which expose the thighs meant for ease of movement (the changshan can be worn even when engaging in mortal combat - just ask Ip Man!)

The Hanfu (literally translated as Han Chinese clothing) which Simon A speaks of is even more comfortable - for example the daopao is exactly identical to the changshan but with a cross collar which does not constrain the neck as much as the changshan's mandarin collar. In fact, there is much precedence for European adoption of Hanfu - as the Jesuit priest Matteo Ricci proved a thousand years ago...

(he is wearing a shenyi, or deep robe, which is the formal dress of the Hanfu universe)

[castiglione]

Bo xue de Lao shi Xu (if I remember well, probably not after so many years). Thank you very much for your kind explanation and for the honesty with which you share with me memories of your past experiences in London. I never intended to cross the boundary lines that separate those inside the Wall and those outside the Wall-let alone awake in my Chinese counterparts memories of Shanghai mafia dons. I simply liked the changshang and truth to be told it is my default home attire since I got to know it when I had the privilege of being your gui bin. As to the daobao, problem it is very much like a normal smoking jacket or an Oblomov like one, prone to open and in need of a belt. I do not like gowns precisely for these reasons. My changshang are all in linen and in dark shades for practical considerations. Ni de beijin de ti zi. Castiglione.

[Renton]

Here's a picture of the silk I found. The photo is somewhat lighter in shade than the actual cloth because of the flash used. It's acually a deep navy blue tone-on-tone. The right side of the photo is probably the most true to life.


My intent is to have this made up into a full-length, lined dressing gown with black quilted satin collar facing and cuffs. Now I'll have to take the plunge and get a pair of velvet slippers...

Do you mind sharing where you found this please? I could see this as a smoking suit with matching hat and slippers. Obviously, OTT for anywhere but home but great fun at home.
NJS

I apologize for not answering sooner but I've been out of the loop for a bit. I ordered the silk direct from China. I have since found that the vendor does a pretty big business on everyone's favorite auction site under the vendor name "chinesecollection." The pattern I bought is available there, and in several additional color combinations (although the blue is the most classic to my eyes). They also have a good selection of other silks, and a collection of men's and women's chinese garments.

How did this turn out?