Dressing Gowns

[Costi]

Great picture, Russell, thank you! You can feel the substance of the cloth. And the line of that shawl... I see camel - Michael?

[alden]

It looks like a 2x1 shawl collar DB set sleeve patch pocketed camel hair overcoat (as opposed to a gown.) Though if it were made in a lightweight cloth it could take on a dressing gown look and feel.

Michael

[Costi]

It looks borderline between overcoat (the cuff treatment, the weight of the cloth) and a gown / robe de chambre (shawl collar, breast patch pocket, edge stitching, 1 button, extremely soft shoulder). I like the overall simplicity. Would you wear this outside?

[alden]

It is basically this overcoat made in a heavy camelhair. I think it is a great look, and you could fit a detachable fur collar as well. Or you could make it in a luxurious camelhair or cashmere and keep it as a robe.

[cathach]

I am not able to give you help you with your question Uppercase, and I don't want to usurp you, but your question has set me thinking along similar lines.
I have been wearing since a boy a heavy woolen dressing gown( which I think used to be school uniform years ago) shawl collar with piping; made by Foxford woolen mills in Co. Galway. These are no longer made presumably as not many live in cold houses any more. I have been looking for a replacement for ages but cant find one.Tailor tells me he has never made one so if anyone has any ideas

I have good news for you SMCK, I don't know if the dressing-gowns are still made, but the blankets still are: http://www.foxfordwoollenmills.com/blankets.html The king-size blanket weighs 5.5kg! Now wouldn't that make a fine robe?

[WGD]

Here's a picture of the silk I found. The photo is somewhat lighter in shade than the actual cloth because of the flash used. It's acually a deep navy blue tone-on-tone. The right side of the photo is probably the most true to life.


My intent is to have this made up into a full-length, lined dressing gown with black quilted satin collar facing and cuffs. Now I'll have to take the plunge and get a pair of velvet slippers...

Do you mind sharing where you found this please? I could see this as a smoking suit with matching hat and slippers. Obviously, OTT for anywhere but home but great fun at home.
NJS

I apologize for not answering sooner but I've been out of the loop for a bit. I ordered the silk direct from China. I have since found that the vendor does a pretty big business on everyone's favorite auction site under the vendor name "chinesecollection." The pattern I bought is available there, and in several additional color combinations (although the blue is the most classic to my eyes). They also have a good selection of other silks, and a collection of men's and women's chinese garments.

[Costi]

Oblomov's indoor costume corresponded exactly with the quiet outlines of his face and the effeminacy of his form. The costume in question consisted of a dressing-gown of some Persian material--a real Eastern dressing-gown--a garment that was devoid both of tassels and velvet facings and a waist, yet so roomy that Oblomov might have wrapped himself in it once or twice over. Also, in accordance with the immutable custom of Asia, its sleeves widened steadily from knuckles to shoulder. True, it was a dressing-gown which had lost its pristine freshness, and had, in places, exchanged its natural, original sheen for one acquired by hard wear; yet still it retained both the clarity of its Oriental colouring and the soundness of its texture. In Oblomov's eyes it was a garment possessed of a myriad invaluable qualities, for it was so soft and pliable that, when wearing it, the body was unaware of its presence, and, like an obedient slave, it answered even to the slightest movement. Neither waistcoat nor cravat did Oblomov wear when indoors, since he loved freedom and space. For the same reason his slippers were long, soft, and broad, to the end that, whenever he lowered his legs from the bed to the floor without looking at what he was doing, his feet might fit into the slippers at once.

[castiglione]

Oblomov's indoor costume corresponded exactly with the quiet outlines of his face and the effeminacy of his form. The costume in question consisted of a dressing-gown of some Persian material--a real Eastern dressing-gown--a garment that was devoid both of tassels and velvet facings and a waist, yet so roomy that Oblomov might have wrapped himself in it once or twice over. Also, in accordance with the immutable custom of Asia, its sleeves widened steadily from knuckles to shoulder. True, it was a dressing-gown which had lost its pristine freshness, and had, in places, exchanged its natural, original sheen for one acquired by hard wear; yet still it retained both the clarity of its Oriental colouring and the soundness of its texture. In Oblomov's eyes it was a garment possessed of a myriad invaluable qualities, for it was so soft and pliable that, when wearing it, the body was unaware of its presence, and, like an obedient slave, it answered even to the slightest movement. Neither waistcoat nor cravat did Oblomov wear when indoors, since he loved freedom and space. For the same reason his slippers were long, soft, and broad, to the end that, whenever he lowered his legs from the bed to the floor without looking at what he was doing, his feet might fit into the slippers at once.

Dear Costi. I left behind this kind of fake orientalism and went for the real thing instead. A chinese Changshan. Linen thicker or thinner according to season. I positively dislike to wear pants at home and I have found the way. Highly recomended. You definitely have a Fu Man Chu or Dr. No appearance but since you are out of sight so to speak who cares? I do not consider silk or cashmere for I find them frail. Here you have a pic. Mine are lined and therefore warmer though one is unlined for the comfort of summer. My Changshans are also of darker shades.
PS.- Pants are an anglicism for pantalon in French. But do you happen to know what a "pantalon" means in the US?

[Costi]

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 237#p41237

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 504#p42504

[castiglione]

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 237#p41237

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 504#p42504

Touché.

[Costi]

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 237#p41237

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... 504#p42504

Touché.

Not by me
But... en garde!

[Simon A]

The Changshan/ Qipao is actually not of Han Chinese origin. It originates from the Manchu, Sibo and other nomadic Tungus tribesmen of Siberia and Manchuria. After the Manchu conquest of China in the 17th century, Chinese males were required to adopt Manchu dress customs in polite society. Prior to the Manchu invasion, Chinese dress ("Hanfu") was somewhat similar to the traditional dress of Korea and Japan as westerners know it today (not surprising, given that both countries adopted aspects of culture, philosophy, writing and clothing styles from the Middle Kingdom).

The old black and white photo looks like a Turkic kaftan. These used to be common from Xinjiang in the East to Ottoman-occupied Greece in the west, made of silk (often woven on very narrow looms so made of many panels), sometimes quilted with a silk or woolen lining, and closed with a frog on the side. Some are still made in Uzbekistan in silk ikat. The Paisley ("Boteh Begeh" in Persian) pattern originates from Iran, possibly as a Zoroastrian symbol, and was popularised throughout Central Asia, India and the Caucasus by the various Persian empires from the 3th century onwards. I write this from no more than three kilometres from the Georgian frontier with what used to be the Persian empire, and can attest to the lasting influence of paisley in ladieswear here, more than 200 years after the end of Persian occupation.

[Costi]

Here it is in colour, Simon:

Oleg Tabakov in Nikita Mikhalkov's movie.

[Simon A]

Looks similar to my old Uyghur "shapan", except mine has cashmere outside and quilted paisley silk inside.

For those interested in Oriental and Caucasian garb, and the modern western garments they inspire, a good reference is the late 19th century text by Max Tilke cited here http://www.indiana.edu/~librcsd/etext/tilke/p1.html

[castiglione]

The Changshan/ Qipao is actually not of Han Chinese origin. It originates from the Manchu, Sibo and other nomadic Tungus tribesmen of Siberia and Manchuria. After the Manchu conquest of China in the 17th century, Chinese males were required to adopt Manchu dress customs in polite society. Prior to the Manchu invasion, Chinese dress ("Hanfu") was somewhat similar to the traditional dress of Korea and Japan as westerners know it today (not surprising, given that both countries adopted aspects of culture, philosophy, writing and clothing styles from the Middle Kingdom).

The old black and white photo looks like a Turkic kaftan. These used to be common from Xinjiang in the East to Ottoman-occupied Greece in the west, made of silk (often woven on very narrow looms so made of many panels), sometimes quilted with a silk or woolen lining, and closed with a frog on the side. Some are still made in Uzbekistan in silk ikat. The Paisley ("Boteh Begeh" in Persian) pattern originates from Iran, possibly as a Zoroastrian symbol, and was popularised throughout Central Asia, India and the Caucasus by the various Persian empires from the 3th century onwards. I write this from no more than three kilometres from the Georgian frontier with what used to be the Persian empire, and can attest to the lasting influence of paisley in ladieswear here, more than 200 years after the end of Persian occupation.

Impressive posting Simon and no less impressive link, thanks. But there is no common frontier between Georgia and Iran. And Georgia has been an independent country for some centuries now. ¿?