How warm is flannel?

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
old henry
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Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:29 am

It is the richest, warmest, most supple cloth I have ever seen.
Fox can and will do anything.
Gilles Deleuze
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Tue Sep 25, 2012 12:39 am

old henry wrote:It is the richest, warmest, most supple cloth I have ever seen.
Fox can and will do anything.
Frank, can I ask what you think of the current Fox "classic flannel" book, which is 13/14 oz with a touch of cashmere? I'm thinking about a flannel suit, but anything with cashmere has me worrying about durability...
old henry
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Tue Sep 25, 2012 1:21 am

Yes, do worry about a cashmere blend.
It is usually mixed in as an excuse for a softer less well built new type weave.
And I dont go below 14oz for Flannel.
But I have not handled this flannel so I cannot say for sure.
Fox is a good mill.
Stay away from cashmere blend and get the 15oz-16oz. Any cashmere blend in any cloth is bullshit.
Flannel is a warm cloth. It is the nature of Flannel. Dont get a Flannel excuse. {13oz or below}
Look to the LL Flannel book.
I call it the way I see it.... FS
davidhuh
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Tue Sep 25, 2012 3:42 pm

Until now, I have only seen 6 swatches of LL flannel. 2 days ago, the flannels for 2 suits arrived. The cloth is of stunning beauty.

cheers, david
JCH
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Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:49 am

I too received two LL Fox flannel suiting lengths not long ago--the Alden navy chalk stripe and the warm brown double stripe. Absolutely beautiful cloth. Nothing on the market comes close. And I trust Michael's judgment, implied by his efforts to get this cloth made and expressed in his descriptions, that in good hands it will make up like no other as well. I wonder if the book will include a plain, marbled gray flannel . . . .

Regards,
alden
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Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:59 am

I wonder if the book will include a plain, marbled gray flannel
JCH

Thanks

I made up the brown double stripe into a 3pc suit and it turned out wonderfully. I was very pleased and so was the owner.

The plain English grey is FS405 B2237/81 :D

I have not had time to photograph it yet.

Cheers
old henry
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Wed Sep 26, 2012 1:09 pm

This is so timely, Michael, as all true English flannels are now just the name.
They have been modernized and luxuriated.
I cannot wait to show your goods to my customers.
Macallan1926
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Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:16 pm

alden wrote:
I wonder if the book will include a plain, marbled gray flannel
The plain English grey is FS405 B2237/81 :D

I have not had time to photograph it yet.

Cheers
Is it essentially the same shade of grey as the "mid grey" put forth by minnis?
alden
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Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:34 am

Is it essentially the same shade of grey as the "mid grey" put forth by Minnis?
No. The English grey has a bluey cast.
kolecho
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Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:59 pm

old henry wrote:Yes, I must agree with that Costi.. What you are saying is " Let the cloth be what it is ".
As usual.. you make sense. To me, there is nothing better than an old worn Flannel suit.
In the lining of my customers pant, I am thinking ahead for them. Playing it safe..
Were I to make myself a Flannel suit I would do as you say.
As far as JJMinnis Flannel, I am not sure if it is still an English cloth, but my advice is to go heavier than ..12oz...13oz.. Below this is new and unauthentic. This is what I would tell my customer.
I am not sure what Flannel I trust any more.
Here's what the MD of HFW Minnis Hardy told me about their Fresco and flannel, amongst other bits:

".....the flannels are very British. The woollen spun flannels have the yarn spun in Huddersfield. The cloth is woven at Antich and the milling is done at Roberts finishers.

The Fresco (this quality does not undergo a milling finish which is a process that bursts the yarn to create a flannel or saxony)...again the yarn is spun in Huddersfield...same spinner as it always has been...woven at Antich and finished at WT Johnson. Actually the finish (whilst important) is not the key element in the Fresco...it is in the type of wool used and yarn spinning that is vital to the Fresco's performance.

The J&J Minnis name has always been a merchant. It was never a mill. We buy our own yarn, and then weave and finish on commission........ The Hardy Minnis brands are strictly British made."
Boisey
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Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:42 pm

davidhuh wrote:
old henry wrote:ps..Minnis Flannels are made in Spain.
By Gorina?
(I'm sorry, I thought to remember having see "made in England" on the label of the last one I bought. But the quality was good.)

cheers, david
Hi Gents,

Just to put the record straight, as I have been talking to Ellie from Hunter & Winterbotham. All of their flannels are made here in England at their Huddersfield mills, not in Spain as has been suggested.

The only exception being that their "Winter Classics" flannel bunch is woven in Biella, Italy from Australian Merino wool but that is mentioned to all customers and labelled on the bunch its self.

I actually plan on having the 34490 Winter Classics, grey flannel with large windowpane made up for myself in the near future.

They are fantastic cloths to work with, make up beautifully and both Dad (Edwin) & I recommend them very highly along with of course the London Lounge Fox Flannels.

Best wishes,

Matthew DeBoise

Steed Bespoke Tailors

http://www.steed.co.uk

matthew@steed.co.uk
Scot
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Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:43 pm

Well, well, it seems the sky is not falling in after all.
etkl
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Thu Oct 18, 2012 11:03 pm

So much for the rumors.
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