Ventless

[ismailalmurtadza]

Thanks,Mr.Costi,great looking suits.

murtadza

[rodes]

It is not that this question of vents is trivial. I myself have a preference; side for normal business wear,none for more formal. But come on guys,are not these quotes from Immanuel Kant over the top? The first and third are from the "Critique of Practical Reason", a treatise on moral law which Kant held to be universal and objective. The second is from the "Critique of Pure Reason" in which Kant laid out his perplexing theorey on synthetic apriori statements of logic. If anything we should cite the third "Critiqe" wherein we find aesthetic theorey and even here it seems to me that Kant would not be much concerned with the subject of vents.
With Respectful Humor,
Rodes

[Costi]

But come on guys,are not these quotes from Immanuel Kant over the top?

Of course they are! That's the fun of it But were we still discussing vents?

[rodes]

Well said Costi. Surely Immanuel Kant would agree with all the fun we are having.

[Costi]

Even if he didn't... we Kant help it anyway

[T.K.]

I think that I'll ask for a ventless coat next though I doubt that any traditional tailor would be too happy with that request!

Was not a ventless coat once traditional as well? It might relate to American dress and the sack suit mainly, but I have seen great examples of beautifully cut ventless SB coats in some Hollywood films recently. The grey suit from North by Northwest comes to mind, as do J.J. Gittes´ 1930´s suits in Chinatown. The difference between the two being that Grant wears a longer coat and Nicholson a shorter one. I like seeing both very much. But I have no clue as to how they would feel when worn. I might give it a try as well!

[davidhuh]

I think that I'll ask for a ventless coat next though I doubt that any traditional tailor would be too happy with that request!

Was not a ventless coat once traditional as well?

Dear T.K.,

I would not expect any tailor to be unhappy making a ventless suit for you - it is less work for him. Ventless was very popular in the eighties, perhaps driven by the Italians and Armani? I remember when I had my first two suits made for me in 1981, the tailor recommended ventless which I did.

Here is what Alan Flusser* writes about the ventless back:
"In the late seventies, the ventless suit was a rarity. Over the next ten years, the men's designer business catapulted the plain-back suit into mainstream fashion, establishing it as the most popular type of jacket, a status it retains today. Although its origins are frequently traced to the tight-fitting Italian suit of the sixties, nonvented suits are as time-honored as the British side vent. Between the wars, when English tailors ruled men's seams, the majority of bespoke lounge suits and, in particular, dinner jackets, were tailored without vents.

The nonvented jacket hugs the hip, giving it a clean, trim contour and a dressier mien. While offering simplicity of line and form, it functions poorly. In order for the wearer to reach into a trouser pocket or to sit down, the ventless back must bunch up, frequently leaving a crease. Advocates choose to ignore such inconvenience, because of its supposed sexier allure."

Call it "sprezzatura" if you wish

cheers, david

*Alan Flusser, Dressing the Man, p88 "Jacket Vents"

[rodes]

I agree with what has been said above. Aesthetically,I actually prefer the nonvented coat. Thus,I tend to request this style when ordering some jackets i.e. all semi-formal evening clothes,strollers,DB suits,and the most dressy SB suits. However,for the usual SB business suit, I order side vents because these are only one degree down in appearance and three up in functionality. Never single vents for me, even on odd jackets.

[T.K.]

Thanks for the citation David. I guess the most important factors are whether you are slim-hipped enough to actually look good in such a suit and whether you are willing to give up some on ease. Rodes, would you order an odd jacket without vents? I am inclined to say only on suits (and the forms of semi-formal dress you mention).

[rodes]

T.K. I have never commissioned such an odd jacket,without vents,in the past and generally would be inclined to say no. However,there might be a few exceptions. Perhaps,a linen DB in tobacco. In the 1957 film "Silk Stockings", Fred Astaire dances to the tune "All of You" in his signature gray flannels,brown suede shoes and a ventless SB blazer that I cannot help but admire. I definitely would order such a coat if I had the chance for even one dance with Cyd Charisse.