John Lobb Paris Bespoke

[ScarpeDiem]

There is no dispute, John Lobb Paris uses computer measured plastic lasts.
I can verify as a first hand eye-witness, this is the case. It's that simple.

They still take hand measurements and feed the information into the computer which then creates the plastic last based on these measurements.

This is a fact.

[crooky13]

Our Bespoke shoes are made on a true wooden last shaped by hand by our Master Lasmakers.

Do not hesitate to contact me for any question.

With best regards,

Patrick

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This being an extract from an email from Patrick Verdillon, director of bespoke of John Lobb Paris. Please retract former comments. I do not understand how a former manager of one of their stores can know so little of the brand they worked for and then so publicly voice their beliefs.

You have not seen the bespoke process first-hand (Edit)

(Edit)

[old henry]

Yes , Sir, I do use block patterns quite often. I have two sets of block patterns. One is made up from an old Henry Stewart pattern based in The Mitchell System and the other is designed by Tony Farelli who was one of the finest practical designers in NYC in the 1960s. High armholes , the sleeves go in like magic. They are custom Tailor blocks like the old Dunhill on E.57th Street.. 7 times out of 10, however , I will draft the customer a pattern from my Mitchell System. It has "dip and spring" like no other and the finished product has a clunky elegance and charm that cant be beat. Drafting a pattern does not necessarily make for a better suit. I really just like to do it. To create a form from just measurements always gives me great satisfaction. And then to see it on the customer...? Great feeling. But many of my suits posted on the LL are block. There is a donkey flannel of mine floating around here somewhere and I wanted to give it a touch of Italian influence. Something I have never had much luck with using the Mitchell System because I am as Irish as Paddys Pig.. So I went to the Ferelli block. I was proud of the outcome and I think the generous customer liked it too. If the tailor knows how to adjust his blocks for attitude they are just as {or more} accurate as Drafts. The charm of The Mitchell System draft is not of my doing. They just come out that way. When I first meet a new customer I decide which will be best for him. Each to his own needs. And all of my pants are cut from Tony Farelli block patterns and my vests. Vests can be so tricky. The pants are perfectly balanced and the pleats drop straight. But if I do ,for some reason, have to draft a pant pattern I use The Master Design System but it has been years. And I draft all of my topcoats. Thank you for asking. Also, the only pair of shoes I own are from Lobb and I like them very much, although I seldom wear them. Eddy Hayes demanded I own a pair of shoes. Respectfully. Frank Shattuck.

[ScarpeDiem]

(Edit) Regardless of what Patrick says I know I've personally seen the "new" system shown to me by the Bespoke director at that time Philippe Attienza. I am not making any judgments as to which system is better, just to the fact that they changed systems.

I understand why Patrick may be protecting the image and romance of John Lobb or maybe they switched back to making wooden last by hand but I will not retract my comments because they are the truth.

(Edit)

(Edit)




[quote="crooky13"]Our Bespoke shoes are made on a true wooden last shaped by hand by our Master Lasmakers.

Do not hesitate to contact me for any question.

With best regards,

Patrick

--------------------------------------------

This being an extract from an email from Patrick Verdillon, director of bespoke of John Lobb Paris. Please retract former comments. I do not understand how a former manager of one of their stores can know so little of the brand they worked for and then so publicly voice their beliefs.

You have not seen the bespoke process first-hand

[Kuro]

Hmmm, I have a question. Do you know whether Lobb Paris currently uses a computer to make plastics lasts for its bespoke shoes? If you do know, would you be kind enough to provide the support for the claim?

I'm curious since:

- you apparently left lobb a number of years ago (8 years ago?),

- P. Atienza also left lobb a few years ago (he now works for chanel @ massaro),

- current director replied that the last are made of wood by hand,

- new workshop has a station for the last-makers with their tools and a storage room full of wood lasts,

- customers, bloggers, journalists have witnessed the last-makers at the new workshop working on the wood lasts, etc., (as I mentioned earlier in this thread visits to the new workshop on rue de mogador can be arranged) and

-there are photos of the new workshop and the wood lasts.

Thank you in advance for your reply.

P.S : I will, however, agree with one point you make - this isn't that important, particularly considering current world events.

[alden]

I will, however, agree with one point you make - this isn't that important, particularly considering current world events.

No reason to get heated friends.

Michael

[ScarpeDiem]

Hello All ,

I visited today at the boutique on Madison Avenue and it was explained to me from Paul (the person responsible for Bespoke) that in fact JL Paris uses wood lasts and in fact carves the finished last from hand. Apparently at my final visit to the bespoke shop when Phillippe Attienza showed me the "new" system they were testing out a computer system that cut plastic lasts. They discovered wood lasts were better due to the humid nature of leather as it lasted and the benefits of wood in the shaping process as the leather dries. I'm told they did away with the computer system and I believe this is the truth as I know their ultimate goal is to produce the best product possible. I have always and currently believe that John Lobb Paris makes the finest bespoke shoes in the world, plastic or wood lasts.

[Costi]

I have always and currently believe that John Lobb Paris makes the finest bespoke shoes in the world, plastic or wood lasts.

I dunno 'bout JLP shoes, but such a statement of true faith goes straight to my heart! Hats (and shoes) off to JLP for that...