Linen

[shredder]

In Bruges: Loved it. So twisted. Just my sort of film!

I have no idea about the dyeing thing, but it's an interesting question. I would also like to know and why.

s

[shredder]

I understand there are yarn dyed and lot dyed linen. Which one is commonly used for tailoring purposes? I presume the former???

I made another trip to Libeco on Saturday rummaging through various bolts and ended up covered in flax dust. There are sections for clothing, household and interior decoration. The cloths for the latter 2 all seem to have been dyed before weaving. Some cloths meant for clothing were dyed before weaving, and others were dyed after weaving.

It seemed that plain weave cloths can be of either variety whilst cloths of other weaves, such as plain twill and herringbone, were yarn dyed. Other than the lengths meant for bedding, I ended up getting a length of undyed plain weave for the Ghurka shorts and a length of navy lot dyed plain weave for a pair of trousers. I plan to use the wrong side of the navy one.

I saw one bolt that was intriguing: 60% linen, 40% wool in plain twill. The goldenrod colour is perfect for the Ghurka shorts, but I had envisaged the shorts to be of matte cloth whereas this one is quite lustrous. Nice hand, a bit like heavy linen that's been lived in for several years. I probably would have bought a length for another project if it weren't for the colour... Intriguing, nonetheless.

[tteplitzmd]

I like these linen blends, and linen in tweed or twill weaves. The few I've seen were all milled in Scotland from Irish linen.
One exception was a cashmere/silk/linen blend from Loro Piano, which looked like linen, but with the hand of summer cashmere. I'm having a saharienne made from it as we speak.

I would like to see a heavy pure Irish linen jacketing cloth, made in the pattern of a classic estate tweed.

[signorlaine]

I made another trip to Libeco on Saturday rummaging through various bolts and ended up covered in flax dust. There are sections for clothing, household and interior decoration. The cloths for the latter 2 all seem to have been dyed before weaving. Some cloths meant for clothing were dyed before weaving, and others were dyed after weaving.

It seemed that plain weave cloths can be of either variety whilst cloths of other weaves, such as plain twill and herringbone, were yarn dyed. Other than the lengths meant for bedding, I ended up getting a length of undyed plain weave for the Ghurka shorts and a length of navy lot dyed plain weave for a pair of trousers. I plan to use the wrong side of the navy one.

I saw one bolt that was intriguing: 60% linen, 40% wool in plain twill. The goldenrod colour is perfect for the Ghurka shorts, but I had envisaged the shorts to be of matte cloth whereas this one is quite lustrous. Nice hand, a bit like heavy linen that's been lived in for several years. I probably would have bought a length for another project if it weren't for the colour... Intriguing, nonetheless.

You wouldn't remember some names of the fabrics you looked? When I sent an email to Libeco few weeks ago they said they don't have apparel fabrics...

Anyway I bought 1.5 meters of Napoli Vintage (meant for decoration purposes, 377 g/m2) and received it today and will see in a few weeks time how it turns into trousers. I think the cloth looks and feels nice. But we'll see.

I also bought a few lenghts of Brisbane Moss's linen (240 g/m2) at a price about one tenth of the Napoli Vintage.

Linen will be my number one choice for this summer!

[shredder]

Signorlaine, none of the labels had names or weights -- only SKU, price and purpose. I wonder if they produce cloths for apparel for the trade only? Many of the bolts in the shop are labelled B quality. I saw many bolts meant for household and decoration purposes that I thought would be rather nice for apparel use. Please let us know how your trousers turn out.

s