Rubinacci pricing question

[Guest]

I am kindly disposed towards Bulgaria(ns). The first thing I ask is: "Is it good for the Jews?"
Bulgaria conducted itself better than its neighbors.

Would I buy clothing based on the King's endorsement? Do I buy Geneva shirts at Saks or the workshop in NYC? One thing I have learned on the LL is that you want to have your stuff made with as few middle men as possible, and with as much supervision as possible when there are several stages to making the goods. Everyone knows some of the work gets subcontracted at times, so you're paying for convenience, piece of mind, hand holding, and so on, all of which comes at a price. That's fair. Doesn't mean I would do it.

[Guest]

Would I buy clothing based on the King's endorsement? Do I buy Geneva shirts at Saks or the workshop in NYC? One thing I have learned on the LL is that you want to have your stuff made with as few middle men as possible.

There's no logical connection between the first two sentences I've quoted. We are not buying clothes through the King of Bulgaria, nor is he making them for us.

I don't think anyone has bought clothes from whatever tailor it is -- I guess Poole -- because it happens to hold the Bulgarian Royal Warrant, or if it did so at the time. Poole doesn't even make much of the British Royal Warrant it holds as Livery Tailors. And, of course, if you're buying clothes from almost any British tailor, at least some part of the work will be handled by outworkers. If that's reason to avoid them for you, it's your decision.

I don't see why this necessitates a tirade against Rubinacci and its pricing, however.

[Guest]

Pricing differs between person and person and I think that is only reasonable.

Bespoke is a personal business and you wouldn't expect older, established clients to pay the same as walk-ins.

It takes a bit more than money to enter into Rubinacci's inner circle. It is only normale.

[Guest]

Now we're getting somewhere. There are the "published" prices, and the inner circle prices.
Sounds to me like you need to buy your way into the inner circle. That's fine, it's a private matter. No harm done. Volume discounts, loyalty programs, whatever you want to call it.

I think what strikes me is the amount and glossiness of the promotional literature and real estate. It is very similar to a small high end US Hotel "chain" which has bought up some fine "properties" and proceeded to have raised the prices significantly, while the service and the ambience have deteriorated. They spend most of their time telllng you how wonderful they are, their glorious history, and so on. A similar decline took place with the Savoy Group selling out to Blackstone, to now the Maybourne Group. Service and quality are lacking but they hit you over the head with the weight of the paper used to print their publicity literature. Anyone who has been around the block knows sales puffery like this. I am no historian of bespoke, but I would wager that the Rubinacci promotional machine was non existent if you go back 40 or so years. This kind of advertising we see now is a new thing. I don't see advertising and promotion like this from the British and American (or even Italian) peers. Word of mouth and personal recommendation usually suffice for everyone else, don't you think?

[Guest]

Do you get those nice Rubinacci name imprinted buttons if you are in or out of the inner circle?

[Guest]

Bespoke is a personal business and you wouldn't expect older, established clients to pay the same as walk-ins.

It takes a bit more than money to enter into Rubinacci's inner circle. It is only normale.

This I can't believe.

[Guest]

It takes a bit more than money to enter into Rubinacci's inner circle. It is only normale.

Exactly what does it take?

[Guest]

Again, it seems like we seem to have somebody throwing a bit of a temper tantrum. This is unfortunate, to say the least.

The first question that comes to mind when speaking of bespoke is, how is the work? Why somebody would care about glossy literature if somebody is making good product, I am not sure. Perhaps there was the feeling of not being much wanted as a client. Who knows?

I am a rather new member, but from what I have seen of the suits posted here, a lot leave much to be desired. The Rubinacci work looks quite fine when compared to a recent Corvato spread. Again, how is the work?

Price is the next bit of the puzzle. If one cannot afford to pay for a given tailor, or chooses not to, that is an individuals business. Even this point begs the important question, and that is, how is the work?

[Guest]

I am a client of Rubinacci. I enjoy him very much both on a personal and professional level. He has always done good work for me and done right by me. I find the literature interesting and am glad to have something to leaf through while I might be waiting for something. I am not sure exactly where this sort of animosity comes from, but it seems like the best course of action if you don't like a tailor shop or it's work is to not be a client.

Matt

[Guest]

Horses for courses...

The literature when not self aggrandizing is very good. But isn't the message rather, ..."Bijan-like?"

[Guest]

Rubinacci produces the finest handmade suits available in London. His suits, handmade in Italy, have the finest, most extensive handwork which you simply will not get from any London tailor. Any London tailor will acknowledge that. It is a fact.

If you like Rubinacci's suit style, you are simply getting the best suit that money can buy. He prices himself at the upper end of Savile Row pricing which is where he wants to position himself but provides an arguably higher quality product given the manhours needed to make a Rubinacci vs. the usual SR suit. Note: I am talking here of hours and handwork here, not the beauty or otherwise of his style vs. anyone else. But Rubinacci has to be considered reasonably priced in the British market.

[Guest]

Where can you get that literature?

[Guest]

Where can you get that literature?

Why the obsession?

[Guest]

Where can you get that literature?

As noted in past posts, at the London shop, and presumably the Italian flagship locations.

[Guest]

Now we're getting somewhere. There are the "published" prices, and the inner circle prices.

I don't see advertising and promotion like this from the British and American (or even Italian) peers. Word of mouth and personal recommendation usually suffice for everyone else, don't you think?

The inner circle prices conspiracy theory strikes me as pure nonsense.

Savile Row tailors are the most self promotional in the world. The amount they spend on informing everyone of their next US tour must be impressive.