Aging Steak and Game

[Guest]

Robuchon has just opened his fourth Atelier in New York City's Four Seasons Hotel ( the others are in, I think, Paris, Tokyo, and Las Vegas). Ducasse has just announced that he will be closing his restaurant at the Essex House and opening in a new location, with a new "concept."

R Watkins

[Guest]

Well, Ducasse was not well received in NYC from the get go, so I'm not surprised to hear from you that he is closing.

It seems NYC never embraced him.

But Robuchon should be interesting for NYC foodies.

[Guest]

I am not sure that Ducasse would be the star that he is if he had not replaced Robuchon at the restaurant in Paris. There was a whole lot of publicity there. Ducasse has always struck me as a chef without a soul.

From what I hear, even when Robuchon was at his peak, Girardet was the best chef in the world. I never had the opportunity to dine in Crissier. I hear that his successor Rochat is terrific as well.

I also have not eaten at the Ateliers. I did have a few wonderful meals at the Astor Dining Room when he was consulting chef there. The entire menu was full of classic Robichon dishes from the pigs head to the caviar in aspic. I found it to be excellent. I am not sure how the food translates at l'Atelier, but I would have a hard time imagining him being happy with some second rate cuisine.

FWIW, if you can read French, the series of cookbooks that he put out titled Le Meilleur et le plus simple de... are the best in my collection. Highly recommended.

[Guest]

Thanks for that!

Do you know what is the style and theme of l'Atelier? Is it ,for example , formal French gourmet? Or a different concept altogether?

[Guest]

I believe that it is more informal than that, but again, I have not been.

Matt

[Guest]

Robuchon opened an Atelier recently in London. Reasonably informal with food served as a series of small/medium/large plates. The quality of produce and service was better than average for London.

[Guest]

Yes, I'm all for informal restaurants but with excellent food.

Who wants to sit down to a solemn, though excellent, meal anymore?

I must try Robuchon in London sometime.

I don't know if Atelier is like the newish Gordon Ramsey restaurant which I rather liked , and I can't remember the damn name , not far from the US embassy and Connaught....which served superb tasting dishes in a buzzy, relaxed atmosphere.

Excellent for a fun evening and the bar was humming as well.

[Guest]

Yes, I'm all for informal restaurants but with excellent food.

Who wants to sit down to a solemn, though excellent, meal anymore?

I have to say that I like both. To me, thtere is nothing like sitting down for a solemn (perhaps formal is a better word) meal at a rstaurant with exquisite service. I do not simply mean attentive service where all your needs are met. Rather, I mean a restaurant where the staff is so good that it becomes enjoyable to watch them work.

Two years ago I could think of only two restaurants like this in the world. In my mind Lucas Carton had the best service anywhere. Watching the staff navigate the beautiful, small dining room was a treat. Now they have gone casual and Taillevent is the only one left at which I have dined. Others around have good service, but very, very few have truly memorable service on the upside.

[Guest]

I don't know if Atelier is like the newish Gordon Ramsey restaurant which I rather liked , and I can't remember the damn name , not far from the US embassy and Connaught....which served superb tasting dishes in a buzzy, relaxed atmosphere.

You mean Maze.

Atelier is similar in style but closer to the chef's dining table at the Maze, where you dine seated on a small stage, overlooking the working chefs. Atelier extends that concept to the entire restaurant.

[Guest]

1. Yes, that's it - Maze!

I really enjoyed that visit; a pretty quick meal at the bar, late at night, dead tired from a long day. But very welcoming, and central, for a tired visitor to London looking.

2. Regarding, solemn or formal service, well, of those 2 Parisian restaurants, I've only been to Taillevent and that was superb.

But I don't consider that formal service at Taillevent; to me, it was excellent, unobtrusive, harmonious service but the whole atmosphere in the restaurant was alive, lively, and clubby and welcoming. This is just the kind of restaurant that I would love to have nearby and become a regular.

I guess I associate formal service with solemnity; ofcourse, it needn't be so and perhaps I am confusing formality with a bit a serious, heavy feeling in a restaurant which I can't stomach.

To me, the atmosphere and vibe is equally imprtant as the food in a successful restaurant.

[Guest]

The atelier in Paris ids good for a quick meal alone, but for true conversation the bar style seating is a no no. The food is excellent, though.