Iron Question

[old henry]

You're absolutely right, DAVID. A one piece back does take much iron shaping. Learning to shape a coat as you go along, as it is being assembled, takes years to learn and to understand. There were men who only pressed. They went from shop to shop to give a the final pressing and they were paid very well for it. Joe the Presser ( pressore ) was a hilarious red haired Sicilian. He was the last one in NYC. And there was another old non English speaking Italian guy came out of retirement every Friday to press for Henry Stewart. Martin Scorsese's father was a presser.
As for the one piece back I avoid much stretching, as on the first wet day the fibers will want to return home and you will have a short back. I prefer to shrink in the round shape at the blade and shoulder and neck and hold the shape with a draw stitch or tape. Ample fullness along the back shoulder seam is also necessary. And if a customer has too round of a back I would try to talk him out of it. It is a mystery still. I have one piece back instructions. I'll post it on "Tailors and Fans of Tailoring " on Facebook later today.
Also, the old Lesser 7-1/2" - 8oz Tropicals could take the 16lb or 20lb iron just as well as a heavy Tweed. But most of the limp "Snowflake" cloths of today will wilt under the dry iron. They need moms kitchen steam iron.

[davidhuh]

You're absolutely right, uppercase.

Dear Frank,

this was just me, dressed up as uppercase may be? The night was long and deep and cold

Cheers, David

[old henry]

I am so sorry David. It is YOU ,Sir, that is so right. NOT uppercase.
Correction made.

[old henry]

I had a discussion yesterday regarding pressing. It might be of interest to some. In the old days discussion like this was every day.
In the top tailor shops a while back only minimal pressing was done to give shape. Pressing in shape by stretching and shrinking and tugging and pulling was not done. On the first humid day anything shrunk will bubble back and anything stretched will go back to where it was. If a tailor stretches and pulls the back panels to accommodate a customer with a rounded back- on the first humid day those fibers will “return home” and the back will be short,, the collar will lift off,, and the front will be short.
I, myself, never stretch anything. I do , however, shrink a bit. But what is shrunk is held with a draw stitch.
In the top tailor shops ...shape was given to the pattern by the cutter using old pattern manipulations. There were volumes written on pattern manipulation. This is what a “cutter” was. He made a flat piece of paper to fit all the bends and curves and protrusions of the customer with functional ease. And made him look and feel at ease.