M.T.M. : Sleeves problem.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Hello Mr. Costi.
la parola:( accettano il lato basso ) Means some company do the low shoulder .

Kind Regards
Pino

[hectorm]

In questo caso puo' chiamarsi su misura. M.T.M........
........ vendono un Arancio quando sanno di deliverare un Limone .questa io chiamo disonesta'

Dear Don Pino,
first of all let me tell you that I really enjoy your knowledgeable comments.
I agree 100%: promising oranges but knowingly delivering lemons is dishonest and there is no way around it.
But there is an angle I would like to add at this time, and it is regarding the very concept of MTM. As you are aware the meaning of MTM covers a wide range of possibilities and signifies different things to different people. Actually, most of the tailor shops and men´s stores in the States don´t even use the term MTM but they employ more commonly the term "custom made" (which in itself includes an ample variety of quality levels).
When used, MTM generally refers to a lower level of craftsmanship and service than what a traditional Italian tailor (and his clients) would call "su misura", or what an honest traditional American tailor (and his clients) would call "custom made". In England, this is very clear, and MTM comes third after bespoke and half (or semi) bespoke in prestigious tailor houses that offer the 3 options.
So, in the States the concept of "sulle misure" in which a standard pattern is altered only to fit a few of the real measurements of a client does not have a name per se, and is one of the categories included in the wide range of what the business calls MTM. Maybe the lowest point, but still honestly within the range of MTM. Perhaps the right name should be MTSM, because just some measures are considered.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Good morning Mr.Costi.
In Canada (sulle misure : special stock ) che significa a R.T.W. con piccoli cambiamenti che riguardano solo lunghezze.

Nella mia vita da sarto ho tanti ricordi, ( Sono vecchio? ) ero a letto il mio pensiero va ha un episodio del 1956.
Milano estate 1956, da un anno tutti i giorni fra 12,30 , to 1 pm da Via Bramante dove lavoro mi reco in Via Farini al Restorante dove abitualmente vado per pranzo . Tutti i giorni all'angolo di Paolo Sarpi e Piazza Baiamonte incontro un uomo all'incirca ( quarantenne = 40 year) che chiede l'elemosina ( charity) Ma oggi appena le sono vicino non stante la mano in cerca di elemosina. Ma con accento meridionale mi dice: < paesa ! ma fari na giacca su misura , e aggiunge ; non ridere io ti pago meglio degli altri>>.
Le feci la giacca a sua scelta tessuto flanella Guabello colore grigio molto chiaro , mentre le prendo le misure mi dice:la voglio a quattro bottoni notch lapel , il davanti destro 2Cm + lungo del sinistro, il dietro della giacca un po largo e che vola. Ma mi raccomando il taschino a barchetta ( breast pocket ) e petto e collo ( lapel and collar ) me li devi ricammari ( ricamari = embroil ) quando mi la mettu devi sembrare che qualcuno me la regalo' .
Spesso lo incontravo con la giacca addosso al suo solito posto.

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

to Mr. Costi,
L'espressione : taschino e petto e collo me li devi ricamare, l'ho sentita da varii miei clienti, incluso un Signore he ho avuto il piacere di servire nel 2004 a Vancouver.

A milano servivo un signore al quale facevo 2 vestiti al mese, usando sembre lo stesso tessuto in colore e disegno:
Alternando una volta grigio medio e light blu . Il suo lavoro export ed import . Passava quasi tutta la giornata lavorativa seduto dietro la sua scrivania, essendo molto grosso , col calore del suo corpo dopo 2 settimane la giacca sotto il giro (under arm) era consumata dal sudore.

Eccetto la prima volta che lo servii fece le prove , 1 ,, 2 ,, 3 ,, durante le prove ripeteva:< non ti impazzire con cannelli ( blade) or siluette dietro . Ma devi ricamari taschino petto e collo e aggiungeva , quando ho meething con qualcuno , standomi seduto difronte non potra' farne a meno di guardare petto,collo, taschino, e nel guardarli sa chi ha difronte.
Kind regard
Pino u sartu

[Costi]

Good morning Mr.Costi.
In Canada (sulle misure : special stock ) che significa a R.T.W. con piccoli cambiamenti che riguardano solo lunghezze.

Nella mia vita da sarto ho tanti ricordi, ( Sono vecchio? ) ero a letto il mio pensiero va ha un episodio del 1956.
Milano estate 1956, da un anno tutti i giorni fra 12,30 , to 1 pm da Via Bramante dove lavoro mi reco in Via Farini al Restorante dove abitualmente vado per pranzo . Tutti i giorni all'angolo di Paolo Sarpi e Piazza Baiamonte incontro un uomo all'incirca ( quarantenne = 40 year) che chiede l'elemosina ( charity) Ma oggi appena le sono vicino non stante la mano in cerca di elemosina. Ma con accento meridionale mi dice: < paesa ! ma fari na giacca su misura , e aggiunge ; non ridere io ti pago meglio degli altri>>.
Le feci la giacca a sua scelta tessuto flanella Guabello colore grigio molto chiaro , mentre le prendo le misure mi dice:la voglio a quattro bottoni notch lapel , il davanti destro 2Cm + lungo del sinistro, il dietro della giacca un po largo e che vola. Ma mi raccomando il taschino a barchetta ( breast pocket ) e petto e collo ( lapel and collar ) me li devi ricammari ( ricamari = embroil ) quando mi la mettu devi sembrare che qualcuno me la regalo' .
Spesso lo incontravo con la giacca addosso al suo solito posto.

In Canada “sulle misure” = special stock, which means RTW with minor changes that concern only lengths.

I have many memories of my tailor life (am I old?), I was lying in bed and my thought flew to an episode back in 1956.
Milano, summer 1956. It’s been a year since I walk every day between 12:30 and 1 pm from Via Bramante, where I work, to the restaurant in Via Farini where I usually have lunch. Every day at the corner of Paolo Sarpi street and Piazza Baiamonte I meet this man in his forties who begs. But today, as soon as I am near him, he doesn’t extend his arm to beg. But with a southern accent he tells me: “My fellow countryman! Make me a bespoke coat – and he adds: don’t laugh, I’ll pay you more than the others”.
I made him the jacket in the cloth of his choice, a very light gray Guabello flannel. While I was measuring him up he tells me: “I want it four buttons, notch lapel, right front 2 cm longer then the left, the back of the coat a little big and kicking out. But take care, I want the “barchetta” breast pocket, lapels and collar embroidered [or is it pick stitched?!]. When I put it on, it has to look like someone passed it on to me.
I would often find him, with the jacket on, in his usual place.

[Costi]

to Mr. Costi,
L'espressione : taschino e petto e collo me li devi ricamare, l'ho sentita da varii miei clienti, incluso un Signore he ho avuto il piacere di servire nel 2004 a Vancouver.

A milano servivo un signore al quale facevo 2 vestiti al mese, usando sembre lo stesso tessuto in colore e disegno:
Alternando una volta grigio medio e light blu . Il suo lavoro export ed import . Passava quasi tutta la giornata lavorativa seduto dietro la sua scrivania, essendo molto grosso , col calore del suo corpo dopo 2 settimane la giacca sotto il giro (under arm) era consumata dal sudore.

Eccetto la prima volta che lo servii fece le prove , 1 ,, 2 ,, 3 ,, durante le prove ripeteva:< non ti impazzire con cannelli ( blade) or siluette dietro . Ma devi ricamari taschino petto e collo e aggiungeva , quando ho meething con qualcuno , standomi seduto difronte non potra' farne a meno di guardare petto,collo, taschino, e nel guardarli sa chi ha difronte.
Kind regard
Pino u sartu

I heard the expression “I want the breast pocket, lapels and collar embroidered [pick stiched?]” from various customers of mine, including a Gentleman that I had the pleasure to make for in 2004 in Vancouver.

In Milano I had a customer for whom I would make 2 suits a month, always using the same colour and pattern of cloth, alternating between medium gray and light blue. His work was export and import. He would spend all his working day sitting behind his desk. As he was very corpulent, with the heat of his body the underarms of the coat would be worn out by sweat within 2 weeks.

Except the first time I made for him, he would come for fittings – first, second third. During the fittings he would repeat: “don’t overstrain yourself with the shoulder blades or the shape of the back. But you have to embroider [pick stitch?] the breast pocket, lapels and collar” and he would add “when I have a meeting with someone, sitting in front of me he couldn’t help looking at the lapels, collar, breast pocket and, by looking at them, he will know who is in front of him.”
Kind regards
Pino the tailor

[Costi]

The sartorial Decameron - I like this very much, Signor Mancuso! Any more?

[davidhuh]

Milano estate 1956

Egregio Signor Mancuso,

as my italian is far from perfetto, I prefer to reply in English. I very much enjoy reading your stories, please continue!

About Milano 1956, I have one to add: Ten days ago, I went to the single cloth store remaining in my city. The owner must be between 75 and 80 years old. I go there to get linings for some of my commissions. Last time, I was wearing the LL Agnelli flannel for the first time. While I was talking to a sales lady, I saw him making big eyes and walking around me, watching from some distance. Finally, he said "I'm sorry, I have to apologise. You must know I have not seen something like this for a while. Everything is perfect - sleeves length, the back, and the trousers fall is amazing. In 1956, my parents sent me to Milano to work in a cloth shop for a year, as I had to take over their business. Being there, I went out at lunch time, watching the beautiful suits men frequenting tailors were wearing. This has sharpened my eyes. Your suit recalls me past times..."

This is the most flattering compliment I have received to date, wearing a suit made with LL cloth. Pictures to follow

cheers, david

[Giuseppe Mancuso]

Hi David, thanks for your appreciation.
Regarding your experience in Milano 1956 - The store where you vent was : Olivo Giorgetti ,Via Bramante 9 ? A you was tall tin Yong men ?
If you are the David I meet in 1956 , I like if you send me an E- mail
pino3567@yahoo.ca
Warm regards
Pino.