Features

[snapper]

Gentlemen,
If you were designing a single breasted suit in (say) a middle of the road plain blue what features would you incorporate and avoid such that you could wear both pieces separately? The jacket to double up (maybe with interchangeable buttons) as a blazer and not look like an orphaned suit jacket, but with the trousers to clearly be an elegant tailored suit (albeit somewhat casual) rather than an austere business suit.

Regards,
Snapper

[Concordia]

Depends on exactly how casual you want it to be. I wouldn't go nuts on any of it, b/c a jacket shouldn't be laden with bells and whistles just because it isn't matched with trousers. Even a plain 2-button with straight pockets would serve just fine. Maybe patch side pockets, or maybe a ticket pocket. Maybe both, if you aim for the very casual. Paradoxically, if you went for hook center vent and welted edges, it might end up looking more like half of a J Press suit and less like an odd jacket.

There is an RAF linen herringbone in the LL book that could serve as an odd jacket without changing any buttons from blue horn. Some of the 9/10 oz blue (non-navy) Frescoes are perfectly OK in that role, if not ideal. Maybe some of the more suit-worthy Glorious Twelfth worsted tweeds. Donegal tweeds are by their nature good jackets-- just find one that won't be silly as trousers, too.

[snapper]

Thank you Concordia for your detailed reply.

I think my safest bet would be single breasted, notched lapels, welted breast pocket and patch hip pockets. Careful selection of the buttons should allow for dual use of the coat and I will discuss this in detail with my tailor. Interchangeable buttons probably won't be necessary and could certainly be a nuisance to change.

Thanks again. Regards,
Snapper

[Leonard Logsdail]

dark brown buttons. That's all you need

[alden]

dark brown buttons. That's all you need

+1

Exactly.

Dark brown horn buttons...

Cheers

[arch]

Out of interest, do you think you can carry off plain grey flannel with no bells and whistles as a stand alone coat?

[old henry]

A charcoal with brown horn buttons I'd say yes . Medium grey I'd say not.

[Concordia]

I'm not sold on the virtues of brown horn buttons. IMO, when a jacket works fine as an odd jacket, it doesn't need too much help from the buttons. And if it doesn't, not-quite-matching buttons won't save the situation. Especially if you're going to be wearing as part of a suit.

But there are obviously two excellent tailors who disagree with me, so take that for what it is worth.

[snapper]

My thanks gentlemen to all who have given of their time and consideration to the initial question.

There is a train of thought that suggests that one can only wear brown shoes with a coat that has brown buttons. This in turn flies in the face of 'black shoes only after 6pm'. I realise these 'old style rules' are now only meant as advise but is it something that should be considered?

Regards,
Snapper

[arch]

One of my coats, which a black and white herringbone overcoat has mottled dark grey and brown horn buttons. They are very neutral.

[alden]

There is a train of thought that suggests that one can only wear brown shoes with a coat that has brown buttons. This in turn flies in the face of 'black shoes only after 6pm'. I realise these 'old style rules' are now only meant as advise but is it something that should be considered?

Have you had run ins with the Dresstapo like I did about browns?

A dark brown shoe, and that is what is called for here, will pass very much unnoticed after 6pm.

I have two pair of spectacular black oxford shoes made in the 80s by Edward Green. They are spectacular for two reasons: they were made under the watchful eye of John Hlustik himself on the 88 last; and they have been worn only a few times.

My brown shoes, made at the same time, are well worn and have stunning patinas!

Cheers

[alden]

Out of interest, do you think you can carry off plain grey flannel with no bells and whistles as a stand alone coat?

I can carry off any article of clothing, as long as it fits. If I didn't think so, I wouldn't bother getting dressed.

Yes, a plain gray flannel odd coat can be stunning, if worn well.

Take the trousers from your Cooper tweed POW suit (you will have made 2 pairs, right?), a pair of dark brown suede shoes or, even better, chukka boots, some wild stockings, a well cut blue shirt with a great collar, a plain brown wool tie....and your dark gray plain flannel jacket with dark brown horn buttons....Persols and a happy, smiling face mixed and embellished with an immensely naughty grin.

It works....trust me.

Cheers