What are the guidelines regarding placement of coat pockets?
For example, our natural waist is the pivot point for placing the buttoning button.
But where we do want the pockets cut?
What are the considerations to achieve proportion and balance?
Thanks, uppercase
Positioning Coat Pockets
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Guest
Every tailor and tailoring house has its own formula. It is calculated as a function of the measurement from the bottom of the armhole to the bottom of the jacket. Some houses add 2 inches to this measure and divide by two to get the pocket placement. Others have devised their own formulas. But these formulas are only intended to give an idea, a place to start when looking at pocket placement.
Generally speaking a shorter man will have the pockets lower to increase the perceived length of the jacket. A taller man will choose higher pockets in order to fill a bit of unwanted lengthening space.
A good tailor when setting out to cut for a first time customer will simply provide a mock up of pockets that can be moved about until the right height is visualized for the client given his morphology. It’s a question of the eye, getting the balance right and formulas or rules are just a starting point in the process.
Pockets that are too high add too much breadth and width. They also seem to be lost on the coat.
Pockets that are too low (90% of the time) just look a bit dumpy.
If one is too err on the safe side, then err on having the pockets lower if you are short or of average height and the contrary if you are tall.
My own view about fitting is to begin by finding the ideal buttoning point. Then I would look at a pocket 4 inches below that point and see how it looks. From that point I would raise or lower by eye.
M Alden
Generally speaking a shorter man will have the pockets lower to increase the perceived length of the jacket. A taller man will choose higher pockets in order to fill a bit of unwanted lengthening space.
A good tailor when setting out to cut for a first time customer will simply provide a mock up of pockets that can be moved about until the right height is visualized for the client given his morphology. It’s a question of the eye, getting the balance right and formulas or rules are just a starting point in the process.
Pockets that are too high add too much breadth and width. They also seem to be lost on the coat.
Pockets that are too low (90% of the time) just look a bit dumpy.
If one is too err on the safe side, then err on having the pockets lower if you are short or of average height and the contrary if you are tall.
My own view about fitting is to begin by finding the ideal buttoning point. Then I would look at a pocket 4 inches below that point and see how it looks. From that point I would raise or lower by eye.
M Alden
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Guest
Some tailors also like to line up the coat's front hip pockets with the bottom button. That is, the pocket opening is level with the bottom button and buttonhole. I find this gives the coat a neat, clean look. But it should not be done at the expense of proper pocket placement. It's better to move the button up or down a litte to the pocket's level than vice versa. And if your build won't work with the two being level (if you need an especially high or low pocket, and putting the button at the same level would make it too far from or close to the waist button) then don't force it. It's more important that the pocket be at the right place than that it line up with the bottom button.
I am fortunate in that my preferred coat length, buttoning point, and front button spacing are all such that my front pockets line up nicely with the bottom button.
I am fortunate in that my preferred coat length, buttoning point, and front button spacing are all such that my front pockets line up nicely with the bottom button.
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Guest
I've been puzzling over this in an overall attempt to concoct an ideal 3-B SB through relation of the proportions of the garment to my frame. I've thought that placing the mouth of the pocket (or the top of the pocket flap) at the top of the hipbone might be ideal.
This, at least on my frame, is just about the same placement.
Anonymous wrote:. . . . egin by finding the ideal buttoning point. Then . . . look at a pocket 4 inches below that point and see how it looks. From that point[,] . . . raise or lower by eye. . . .
This, at least on my frame, is just about the same placement.
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Guest
And if your build won't work with the two being level (if you need an especially high or low pocket, and putting the button at the same level would make it too far from or close to the waist button) then don't force it.
Here are two examples;
Prince Charles has his pockets a good inch above the bottom button.
Mr. John Profumo wears a DB with the bottom button in line.
M Alden
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Guest
To my eye, the button placement in photo of Pr. Charles doesn't work; too low.
Stylistically, I can't see buttons below pocket level.
But I do think that a higher pocket level placement somehow appears more attractive, less buttom heavy, perhaps more slimming if the skirt is quite fitted.
I've measured the distance from pocket to skirt bottom on some of my coats - they vary between 23-27cm.; quite a variance.
The more attractive pocket placement , to my eye, appears to be higher, right on my hip bone, perhaps a bit higher even. That would be right about 4" from the natural waist, the proper buttoning point.
I think that generally "lifting" the coat upwards through managing various visual focal points - a shorter coat, a higher button placement- particularly in a 6 button DB, a higher pocket stance, creates an attractive, elongating, long legged silhouette.
The key is probably cutting as short a coat as you can stand , as Alden has written elsewhere , and then raising the focal points proportionately upwards.
Really, getting this altogether is quite a bugabear.
uppercase
Stylistically, I can't see buttons below pocket level.
But I do think that a higher pocket level placement somehow appears more attractive, less buttom heavy, perhaps more slimming if the skirt is quite fitted.
I've measured the distance from pocket to skirt bottom on some of my coats - they vary between 23-27cm.; quite a variance.
The more attractive pocket placement , to my eye, appears to be higher, right on my hip bone, perhaps a bit higher even. That would be right about 4" from the natural waist, the proper buttoning point.
I think that generally "lifting" the coat upwards through managing various visual focal points - a shorter coat, a higher button placement- particularly in a 6 button DB, a higher pocket stance, creates an attractive, elongating, long legged silhouette.
The key is probably cutting as short a coat as you can stand , as Alden has written elsewhere , and then raising the focal points proportionately upwards.
Really, getting this altogether is quite a bugabear.
uppercase
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Guest
One of the reasons for posting this 1932 drawing is to show the lifting upwards you refer to.
Actually we have to "lift up" these days because the RTW world (for purposes of mass production)and designers like Armani (for purposes of buying Pantelleria in Sicily) dragged us way down.
If you compare his DB to the ones in the drawing I think it is safe to say you are right.To my eye, the button placement in photo of Pr. Charles doesn't work; too low.
This indicates that tailors are making too many decisions for you, if there is this amount of variance. I would think 27 cms about right.they vary between 23-27cm.; quite a variance.
It's a learning process. There are few shortcuts.
This is an altogether rational reaction. And this is why a good many men are reticent about getting into bespoke clothing and why the LL was created to make education and advice accessible.Really, getting this altogether is quite a bugabear.
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