Summer Flannel

[Frederic Leighton]

Flannel used to be the quintessential Summer (and sports) cloth, not only in London (with July and August averages of 23-15 C) but also in the US. No need to believe Apparel Arts; pictures of our heroes speak alone.

I'm quite happy with 370-400gram flannel trousers all year round, warmest months included, which is very handy as I get loads of wear out of my odd trousers (cream, mid grey, charcoal and chocolate brown).

I'm wondering how far things can be pushed jacket-wise, always keeping in mind the average temperatures mentioned above. Also, is there a practise of half/quarter-lining flannel jackets? What's your experience in terms of weight, temperature and - for jackets - construction?

Thank you in advance for sharing your thoughts.

[Luca]

I envy you chaps that "wear cool". I sometimes see gents in the Tube, in summer, with 30+ C, cool as the proverbial cucumber wearing a solid/looking wool suit.

Assuming we are talking about 'casual' wear (i.e. with no specific dress requirement), my comfort limit for 9/11 Oz flannel trousers is about 10/12 C daily high if I am expecting anything more strenuous than a very slow walk. Above that temperature it's lightweight wool (like 'fresco') or cotton, for me.

[davidhuh]

Dear Federico,

you are certainly correct about flannel being worn all year in the past. Before WWII, a lot of people probably did not distinguish between summer or winter suits - lighter cloth didn't even exist. The other issue back then was that people avoided sun shine. Tanned skin was associated with heavy work and farming.

Regarding trousers, I see your point. With a classic cut, mid weight flannel trousers do good service at the temperatures you are mentioning.

Coats are a different matter in my eyes - flannel doesn't breathe very well. So I stop wearing flannel suits when temperatures go above ca 16C. I still wearing 13oz worsted and LL Mistral at temperatures up to 24C. Light construction of my coats, little to no padding, soft canvas, half lining and linen shirts support this strategy. Above these temperatures, I prefer wearing linen, cotton, silk and light wool.

Cheers, David

[aston]

I've been in very light worsteds (eg Smith gilt edge) previously, but have recently collected my Cape Breeze, lightly canvassed but fully lined, and am delighted how it wears in 20c and above.

[Frederic Leighton]

Thank you, Luca, David and Aston.

David, very interesting notes. I'm also wearing Mistral these days, without waistcoat and with temperatures of 24C (more when underground). I'm quite happy with the way it wears. Is the flannel you mention for use up to 16C the LL/Fox's one (500 grams)?

Has anyone tried Fox's mid-weight flannels, those in the 280-370 grams range, for a jacket? I wouldn't consider going lighter with flannel. I wonder if at that weight you can still get something that will last more than a handful of years (or seasons), especially in a jacket and in a partially-lined jacket.

[andy57]

I have a pair of trousers made up in Fox's Cricket White Worsted Flannel, which is 10/11oz. I've been very surprised that I've been able to wear it this far into the Northern California summer. I don't wear it on the hottest days, of course, but on days up to about 80º it has been comfortable.

I'm also having a jacket made up from a vintage Fox flannel that is 8/9oz. It will be lightly, but fully, lined. I really don't know how it will wear, but I suspect it will be more of a spring/fall jacket rather than full on Summer. Maybe if I find myself in the UK in summer it will prove to be quite serviceable.

[Melcombe]

I have a pair of trousers made up in Fox's Cricket White Worsted Flannel, which is 10/11oz. I've been very surprised that I've been able to wear it this far into the Northern California summer. I don't wear it on the hottest days, of course, but on days up to about 80º it has been comfortable.

As a schoolboy I inherited a pair of cricket flannels that looked like they were made from demob suiting - thick, rough and very open weave. They were surprisingly comfortable, but the fact they were washed a few times a season in cold suds, I suspect a good deal of stuffing had been knocked out of them, making them even more breezy. A bit itchy with cricket pads strapped on 'though!

I'm also having a jacket made up from a vintage Fox flannel that is 8/9oz. It will be lightly, but fully, lined. I really don't know how it will wear, but I suspect it will be more of a spring/fall jacket rather than full on Summer. Maybe if I find myself in the UK in summer it will prove to be quite serviceable.

If the UK is a serious option, Id maybe get it lined in Gore-Tex... Today's the longest day and it was raining this morning, and it was so dark due to clouds at midday, I had to switch the lights on. Oh well.

I did get sunburnt on Wednesday - maybe I shouldn't complain.

[davidhuh]

Dear Federico,

Is the flannel you mention for use up to 16C the LL/Fox's one (500 grams)?

The one I made up as SB, yes. And a DB from an earlier cloth club subscription, the Agnelli flannel (which must be around 13oz in terms of weight).

Has anyone tried Fox's mid-weight flannels, those in the 280-370 grams range, for a jacket?

I used it for waistcoats (perfect result). I'm reluctant using it for a coat. In my eyes, the properties of flannel require higher weight for suiting / jacketing. Light weight flannel is a little bit like "reduced fat cheese" for me

Cheers, David

[hectorm]

My school uniforms were flannel. My most appreciated pure lounging suits are flannel. My favorite slacks, ivory or grey, are flannel.
I love flannel.
So I forgive flannel for its bagging and creasing by the end of the day, knowing that it will recover handsomely overnight. And I forgive it for wearing out (relatively) so quickly, knowing that's the price to pay for enjoying how it feels on my skin and it wraps me in comfort.
Unfortunately, although my flannel garments can do many things for me, they cannot keep me cool in high -or even, medium- temperatures (let's say anything above 55 F). So a 3-piece that worked as an armor on my walk to the office - and saved me the overcoat- on chilly days, becomes intolerable once inside (where it's around 70 F) even removing the waistcoat.
I know that out there you can find lightweight worsted flannel. Fox, for example, has a very nice limited edition at an incredible featherweight of 7oz. But why bother? You would be missing two of the main qualities that make for flannel: warmth and feel. You'd still getting the loose open weave, though.
Sorry if I state the obvious saying that wooly substantial flannel is a cloth for low temperature days.
Notice I haven't said winter, since I don't believe there's an original seasonal attachment to this cloth.

[Frederic Leighton]

Dear Andy, David, Melcombe and Hectorm,
Thank you for the many thought-stimulating notes.

I think it might be possible and useful to try and set a middle-path, by remembering that most of what can be said for flannel, to a certain extent is also valid for worsted. It's not only flannel to come out somehow poorly from a comparison between 7oz and 18oz weight in terms of look, feel, creasing, shape and durability. Also, the starting point of this 'investigation' is the acknowledgement of the widespread use of flannel as Summer cloth for many decades, including the so-called "aural era" of men's clothing. If we want to explore how this could be possible back then and whether it could still provide inspiration and possibly be revitalised today, then an inquisitive approach is required. Linen or 150gram worsted wear cooler, but this is not the point. Also, it won't help to speak of global warming (an average +0.85ºC between 1880 and 2012). As a matter of fact, as we find a reason for the use of lighter clothes in the modern use of indoor heating during Winter, air-conditioning mitigates discomfort in the heights of Summer.

Differences in the idea of comfort and appropriateness between then and now could have to be taken in account, with comfort probably being quite a few steps lower in the list of priorities compared to present. Evening dress is a clear example, clearer if we look at the Edwardian era. Seasonal changes did not provide excuses for changes of attire. In London an overcoat was mandatory; if not worn on top of the tail-coat, it had to be carried over the arm even during Summer. My Father told me once of the early days at the woollen mill where he started his career in the early 60's. There he was in charge of several 'technic services' of the mill, including the production of electricity. He was expected to wear the jacket of his suit (and a tie, of course) even in the turbines room, with temperatures above 45C and tropical humidity. Now I can better understand his love for discipline, traces of which I start to discover within myself...

[Scot]

Linen or 150gram worsted wear cooler, but this is not the point.

What is the point?

[hectorm]

Linen or 150gram worsted wear cooler, but this is not the point.

What is the point?

At some point in history it was convenient to wear flannel for some field sports activities. First of all, wool was what it was widely available. Second, wool fluffy pants would offer stretching to movement and at the same time some kind of protection and durability. They would also absorb -and air out- the perspiration well without becoming heavy and clammy. Pants had to be long (it would have been unthinkable to show your knees to the public). They have to be white to reflect off the summer sun, and maybe above all, show that you were a gentleman (you look your best and you don´t care if your whites get soiled in the endeavor).
The informal wear of lounging gentlemen soon followed the sport uniforms of the day. Comfort in the heat was secondary. Propriety was more important.
Can we get some inspiration from all this, or just jump to wearing light linen because it feels much cooler?

[Bwooster]

There was a LL summer flannel offering years ago, noticed it too late but was always interested. Assuming it performed as well as the other LL cloths do, would be very curious to know its weight and weave and if there's anything else like it. Please do speak up members who have this cloth!

[alden]

The LL Summer flannel was a remake of the traditional flannels worn in Summers in the 30s. It was a dove grey flannel weighing in at about 12-13 ozs. It made a lovely suit and there are some pictures of it about on the LL.

From my limited Summer's experience in Manhattan, I would say it would be quite uncomfortable to wear given the intense humidity. But it would be at home in cooler and drier Summer climates. I wore mine alot in Europe.

Cheers

[ay329]

I got to wear my summer flannels in the Florida Keys middle of July, with day weather in the 90s (high humidity), and evening in the low to mid 80s. Once you get sweaty, even after a recent cold shower, the heat was too much to enjoy the dove grey summer flannel.

I found solace only in linen...cotton sear sucker a distant second.

I wore a 10oz Carlo Barbera summer flannel, and the flannel traps the heat and made it unpleasant when I went for a walk over 10 minutes