Hilditch and Key

[DavidS]

...

[Melcombe]

I think the revamp is an interesting direction.

If the price indicates a preservation or improvement of quality, it will be breaking the mould. I bought my first Harvie & Hudson RTW shirt for 25 years - and it'll be in the jumble sale pile very shortly.

Saw this in The Draper:

Hilditch & Key unveils contemporary makeover
20 November 2014 | By Tara Hounslea

Hilditch & Key has revamped its Jermyn Street store and is launching a new website this week to present a more classic contemporary look for the shirtmaker, which was founded in 1899.

The Hilditch & Key flagship at 73 Jermyn Street reopened last week following an eight-week overhaul.

As part of the refurbishment, hat retailer Bates, which is owned by Hilditch & Key, has relocated out of this store into its own 1,000 sq ft unit at number 37.

Hilditch & Key is undertaking a similar refit of its Paris store at 252 Rue de Rivoli, set to be completed by early spring. It is also looking to open a New York store next year.

Chief executive Steven Miller said he has spent the past 18 months working to rejuvenate Hilditch & Key, after joining from fellow Jermyn Street shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser, where he was managing director.

Wholesale is a growing focus for the business, which turned one floor of its offices at 88 Jermyn Street into a showroom in January. Prices range from £50 to £74 for shirts and £25 to £32.50 for ties.

Hilditch & Key has 24 stockists, including Bloomingdale’s in the US, but none in the UK. However, it is in talks with UK stores for autumn 15.

[AndyM]

Very disappointed with the new website. I was in Jermyn Street this week and saw their window display of a wide range of collar and cuff styles that are not reflected in their offerings. What is the point of that? Showing us what they used to make but don't anymore? I didn't bother going inside.

[aston]

I dropped into the new shop in Jermyn Street on Saturday, and was really disappointed.

About 25% of the space was dedicated to ready made shirts, about 25% to bolts of shirting, and the rest to gloves, coats, belts, and other stuff.

This suggests to me that somebody with a marketing bent is in charge saying "......we used to make shirts, but now we are a BRAND.............."

And none of the staff present were in any way interested in the few customers on the floor/

[gegarrenton]

I bought my first Harvie & Hudson RTW shirt for 25 years - and it'll be in the jumble sale pile very shortly.

Curious as to what the issue was? I am a longtime H&H customer, quite like their stuff.

[Melcombe]

I bought my first Harvie & Hudson RTW shirt for 25 years - and it'll be in the jumble sale pile very shortly.

Curious as to what the issue was? I am a longtime H&H customer, quite like their stuff.

In short, quality : fabric & construction.

I had been perhaps a little spoilt. In the late 80's I worked in Arlington Street and would wander along Jermyn St almost daily. H&H were famous then for their bold stripes and colour combinations and I also loved their fitted cut, and cutaway, properly-constructed, collars. IIRC they used to do a choice of longer point or cutaway. The construction then was superb, but they retailed at >£50 (=£100++ in today's terms?).

I should have immediately realised from the price that the shirt I bought earlier this year at £40 (albeit in the sale) simply wasn't going to match those from yesteryear. It didn't : cheap cloth, scrappy seams and a mono-constructed collar. Even the label was a nastier version of the 'old original'.

In a similar vein I lately bought a "New & Lingwood" shirt from House of Fraser's website that was so appallingly bad I sent it straight back. I had first complained to N&L who loftily informed me that I should not confuse "New & Lingwood" with the obviously completely different "New & Lingwood".

It seemed that someone at N&L had sold a licence to manufacture RTW shirts under their label for sale in HoF - a process into which they then apparently had no input. Whoever did it must have thought that a reputation for quality is a very durable item...

[gegarrenton]

I bought my first Harvie & Hudson RTW shirt for 25 years - and it'll be in the jumble sale pile very shortly.

Curious as to what the issue was? I am a longtime H&H customer, quite like their stuff.

In short, quality : fabric & construction.

I had been perhaps a little spoilt. In the late 80's I worked in Arlington Street and would wander along Jermyn St almost daily. H&H were famous then for their bold stripes and colour combinations and I also loved their fitted cut, and cutaway, properly-constructed, collars. IIRC they used to do a choice of longer point or cutaway. The construction then was superb, but they retailed at >£50 (=£100++ in today's terms?).

I should have immediately realised from the price that the shirt I bought earlier this year at £40 (albeit in the sale) simply wasn't going to match those from yesteryear. It didn't : cheap cloth, scrappy seams and a mono-constructed collar. Even the label was a nastier version of the 'old original'.

They did go through label refresh this past year. I was fortunate to get a couple of the last old label shirts before last Christmas.

As far as the RTW line, they have some good, some bad. Some made in the UK, some overseas. You really have to hold each shirt to see the quality. I've gotten great and average fabric and construction at various points.

I haven't bought any RTW from them in awhile though, I use the bespoke service these days as I have a big drop from neck size to shoulder to waist, so any shirt that fits the neck takes a lot of modification to get the waist taken in enough. Plus, I love messing around with the fabric books.

I do highly recommend Richard Harvie's service, top fellow.

[charles]

I called in to the new H and K last week. Shirts still obviously the same quality and cut but £155 !!. A great shame as I also got the impression that the range of merchandise has shrunk rather..they used to have shirts in styles and materials that you wouldn't see anywhere else (a bit like Budd's endless eveningwear range) I made my excuses and left..as they used to day in the News of the World. I think the assistant had experienced many similarly bemused people making an about turn and leaving the shop pronto. Made my way to Budd and got what I wanted for substantially less.

[andreyb]

I passed by their Jermyn Street shop recently, and there is actually one positive change -- a whole window is now dedicated to bespoke! David Gale (ex-Dunhill, ex-T&A) is visible behind the window -- cutting, fitting, etc.







Anything that helps resurrections of London bespoke is good in my book!

Andrey

[Leonard Logsdail]

I have worn Hildtich & Key shirts for more years than I care to remember and have always been more than happy with them. The trouble is that their bespoke/mtm shirts have been on the decline in quantity for a number of years. There was a need to re-vamp the place. I guess the feeling was, like other clothing institutions, that a move towards branding and wholesale would/could create more business for them.

Since Roger Talbot retired (who travelled to the US extensively) I have been the Hilditch & Key representative in the United States. They had no staff willing to make the journey and so, due to my friendship with Roger, my abilities with a tape measure and my location in New York City, I was asked to look after their US clients. Yet I doubt many knew of this arrangement!

I wish H&K well as they use their reputation to brand. I do not fault them for this. It seems many London establishments have taken the same route, to the detriment of those who still enjoy the individuality of bespoke. The trouble is - there are not so many who understand this skill - leaving the branding option the only apparent option open?!

[alden]

Since Roger Talbot retired (who travelled to the US extensively) I have been the Hilditch & Key representative in the United States. They had no staff willing to make the journey and so, due to my friendship with Roger, my abilities with a tape measure and my location in New York City, I was asked to look after their US clients. Yet I doubt many knew of this arrangement!

Leonard,

That is very interesting to know. As hard as it is to find custom services for shirts these days, especially in Manhattan, this is very good news.

Cheers

Michael