Mine is an operating theatre Suggestions from 1957: here and here.theoldesouth wrote:What does your closet look like? Mine's a madhouse. [...] How 'bout you; in the same situation?
What does your closet look like?
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Hey, those suggestions look more like steamer trunks than real closets.
Although I have to recognize that my father, earlier in his life and in a house without built-in closets, dressed off an armoire very similar to those and with total success.
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Apologies for the tardy reply, FL.
I like that arrangement. Very much.
A chic solution, indeed.
I like that arrangement. Very much.
A chic solution, indeed.
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This question seems like it might be best placed here, but please direct me elsewhere it it's not.
We're lucky enough to be building a new house next year. It's not going to be big by North American standards, but it will have an entire walk-in closet / dressing room - obviously I have to share this with my wife, so in terms of space available to me, I will have a minimum of 240 cubic feet, with the approximate dimensions: 10' long by 8' high by 3' deep for storing my clothes and accessories. Dressing space, mirrors and shoe storage are separate. And I have a very good carpenter.
Clearly I have my own ideas, but given these constraints, do you gentlemen have any suggestions for how you would configure this space, or do you have any useful links or pictures to share of optimally-arranged closet space for these sorts of dimensions?
We're lucky enough to be building a new house next year. It's not going to be big by North American standards, but it will have an entire walk-in closet / dressing room - obviously I have to share this with my wife, so in terms of space available to me, I will have a minimum of 240 cubic feet, with the approximate dimensions: 10' long by 8' high by 3' deep for storing my clothes and accessories. Dressing space, mirrors and shoe storage are separate. And I have a very good carpenter.
Clearly I have my own ideas, but given these constraints, do you gentlemen have any suggestions for how you would configure this space, or do you have any useful links or pictures to share of optimally-arranged closet space for these sorts of dimensions?
Welcome to the London Lounge FM.
An entire house from scratch, and all you managed was 240 cubic feet?
I would recommend taking stock of the items in your wardrobe, what you wear and their frequency of use, and how you get dressed. Each item should have its space and place, in a way that supports you looking your best each and every time.
With my own closet, I dress visually so items are laid out or hung, not hidden in drawers. Hanging space, owing to the ease of access it allows, is a priority: overcoats, coats, trousers, and shirts have their space. There are shelves mid-level for knits and accessories. Shelves up top are used for hats and seasonal storage, and the floor space below affords additional storage space and room for footwear. Each item has its space and place.
The above is but one example, and the next dresser will have their own solution. As you find yours, be mindful and weary of dead space from corners, shelving, panelling or doors which prevent ease of access and eat into usable space.
Regards.
An entire house from scratch, and all you managed was 240 cubic feet?
I would recommend taking stock of the items in your wardrobe, what you wear and their frequency of use, and how you get dressed. Each item should have its space and place, in a way that supports you looking your best each and every time.
With my own closet, I dress visually so items are laid out or hung, not hidden in drawers. Hanging space, owing to the ease of access it allows, is a priority: overcoats, coats, trousers, and shirts have their space. There are shelves mid-level for knits and accessories. Shelves up top are used for hats and seasonal storage, and the floor space below affords additional storage space and room for footwear. Each item has its space and place.
The above is but one example, and the next dresser will have their own solution. As you find yours, be mindful and weary of dead space from corners, shelving, panelling or doors which prevent ease of access and eat into usable space.
Regards.
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Thank-you for the welcome and the answer, and yes, of course, were it not for the delightful inconvenience of a wife and son, I would have a great deal more space...C.Lee wrote:Welcome to the London Lounge FM.
An entire house from scratch, and all you managed was 240 cubic feet?
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Welcome, Flying Monkey.
Congratulations and best wishes for the new house.
I'm not sure I understand correctly, as a 3' depth seems a waste of space, unless you have a particular distribution and position of the access already in mind. Wardrobes have a standard depth of about 23 inches - the ideal dimension to hang jackets and overcoats (with the front of the jacket facing the side wall of the wardrobe). You don't really need more than those 23 inches depth.
Images HERE (in scale):
(1) Wardrobe A is 3' X 23'' - some waste of space and you can't really walk into the room;
(2) Wardrobe B is 33'' x 23'', wardrobe C is 33" x 12" - B can accommodate suits, overcoats, shirts and hats; C is for odd trousers, shoes, ties, belts and braces and small items. Depending on the composition of your wardrobe, this solution could give you 10% more storage space than the previous one, thanks to a better use of the depth of the shelves, but is still less convenient than a simple wardrobe, plus satisfying lighting could be difficult to achieve.
What did you have in mind? I'm sure I'm missing something
Congratulations and best wishes for the new house.
I'm not sure I understand correctly, as a 3' depth seems a waste of space, unless you have a particular distribution and position of the access already in mind. Wardrobes have a standard depth of about 23 inches - the ideal dimension to hang jackets and overcoats (with the front of the jacket facing the side wall of the wardrobe). You don't really need more than those 23 inches depth.
Images HERE (in scale):
(1) Wardrobe A is 3' X 23'' - some waste of space and you can't really walk into the room;
(2) Wardrobe B is 33'' x 23'', wardrobe C is 33" x 12" - B can accommodate suits, overcoats, shirts and hats; C is for odd trousers, shoes, ties, belts and braces and small items. Depending on the composition of your wardrobe, this solution could give you 10% more storage space than the previous one, thanks to a better use of the depth of the shelves, but is still less convenient than a simple wardrobe, plus satisfying lighting could be difficult to achieve.
What did you have in mind? I'm sure I'm missing something
This is becoming a big problem for me. I don't have a trunk that's 1.5 m. wide, so I keep my LL cloth on a shelf in a cedar closet. At the moment I have 15 lengths (10 to be made up and 5 spares) and there's no room for anything else. If any of the Fall 2014 offerings make it into production, I'll have no choice but to list a few lengths in the Lost and Found. Hopefully 20-30 years from now I'll have a son-in-law who appreciates LL cloth as much as I do.davidhuh wrote:Gentlemen,
for LL members, the more appropriate question may be "What does your cloth trunk look like?".
It is impossible to make up all the LL beauties offered and everything I buy, even when using several tailors. So, having a good moth free storage space for later days is key. My nephews will praise the cloth club in 30, 40 years from now…
Cheers, David
How does everyone store their cloth? I keep mine rolled and wrapped in the original Lovat brown paper packaging. The Barleycorn from Molloy is loosely folded and stored in a cotton pillowcase.
Going back to the original question, I have a simple 5 ft. wide closet that is jam packed. The aforementioned cedar closet is also full, mostly with my wife's stuff, but also with my LL cloth, overcoats and some of my old RTW suits that no longer fit. I should get rid of these old suits, but I keep holding on to the hope that I'll lose enough weight that they'll fit again someday.
The key to mothproof storage is a truly impermeable seal. One that tiny adult moths cannot crawl through in order to lay eggs, and one that any nearby larvae cannot crawl through to dine on the delicacies within. Most zipper teeth are probably tight enough, but the small gap at the end is vulnerable for truly long-term (multiyear) storage. Even stitched seams are not proof if the stitches are spaced far enough apart.
So I have one length awaiting makeup (the original midnight chalkstripe Mistral test) still in its tape-selaed package from Lovat Mill. All the rest of my cloth lengths are sealed in polyethylene (polythene in the UK) bags, folded and completely sealed shut (no untaped millimeter of entry) with clear package sealing tape. In each bag, between the cloth folds and wrapped in tissue, are one or two sachets of Willert Moth-Tek. This is a paradichlorobenzene product, but with a fairly non-clinging cedar-like scent. I press the excess air out of the bag before sealing, and I store several bags each, flat, in two Henry Poole suit boxes.
I use the same sealed-bag-and-sachet method for my wool and cashmere sweaters in the off season, since my house is not centrally air-conditioned and sealed to modern airtight standards. I haven't had any damage to sweaters or yard goods since adopting this method.
So I have one length awaiting makeup (the original midnight chalkstripe Mistral test) still in its tape-selaed package from Lovat Mill. All the rest of my cloth lengths are sealed in polyethylene (polythene in the UK) bags, folded and completely sealed shut (no untaped millimeter of entry) with clear package sealing tape. In each bag, between the cloth folds and wrapped in tissue, are one or two sachets of Willert Moth-Tek. This is a paradichlorobenzene product, but with a fairly non-clinging cedar-like scent. I press the excess air out of the bag before sealing, and I store several bags each, flat, in two Henry Poole suit boxes.
I use the same sealed-bag-and-sachet method for my wool and cashmere sweaters in the off season, since my house is not centrally air-conditioned and sealed to modern airtight standards. I haven't had any damage to sweaters or yard goods since adopting this method.
Dear Kayak,Kayak81 wrote: How does everyone store their cloth? I keep mine rolled and wrapped in the original Lovat brown paper packaging. The Barleycorn from Molloy is loosely folded and stored in a cotton pillowcase.
my cloth storage is in an antique Chinese cedar chest. Inside, I keep some SMN Potpourri which is changed every 6 months So far, it seems the moths are not amused.
You should indeed get rid of those. Even if you loose weight, inshallah, you will not want to wear RTW suits anymore, trust meKayak81 wrote: (...) some of my old RTW suits that no longer fit. I should get rid of these old suits, but I keep holding on to the hope that I'll lose enough weight that they'll fit again someday.
Cheers, David
it looks like is needing space ...
cheers
Vassilis
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I have good closet space to work with, but it had eventually been overwhelmed with accumulated stuff.
As already mentioned, to remedy that I've given away lots of items of clothing, much of which I occasionally wish I had room enough to have kept. But they're gone, hopefully benefiting others.
What's left is organized and accessible, which is key to its being used.
Whatever I may continue to accumulate, I'm committed to maintaining that organization and accessibility. Otherwise, I'll once again have a big mess on my hands, with plenty of desirable things rarely if ever enjoyed, or worse buried and never actually used.
As already mentioned, to remedy that I've given away lots of items of clothing, much of which I occasionally wish I had room enough to have kept. But they're gone, hopefully benefiting others.
What's left is organized and accessible, which is key to its being used.
Whatever I may continue to accumulate, I'm committed to maintaining that organization and accessibility. Otherwise, I'll once again have a big mess on my hands, with plenty of desirable things rarely if ever enjoyed, or worse buried and never actually used.
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