Cuff size on jackets

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bond_and_beyond
Posts: 409
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Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:34 pm

Gents,

What are your views on the size of the cuff on suit jackets, i.e. the opening of the cuff?

I am leaning more and more towards a "tight" fit where the ends of a double shirt cuff nearly touches the jacket, such as in these photos:

Image

Image

I wear Turnbull and Asser shirts with similar (tight) cuffs as in the photos, and at my last fitting asked my tailor to cut the cuffs of the jacket so that they "hug" the shirt cuffs.

Is this too tight?

BB
norcal_1
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Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:01 am

a good read from the Sartorialist on slim sleeves

http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/t ... eved-coat/
hectorm
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Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:15 pm

bond_and_beyond wrote: Is this too tight?
I also like narrow sleeve openings but you have to consider them in the whole picture.
If your shirt cuff hugs your wrist (as it should), and at the same time your jacket cuff hugs your shirt cuff, you might end up with sleeves that are a bit too tight. The whole balance of the jacket might be thrown off if the coat has substantial draping or if you have big biceps or shoulders. Even the width of the trousers is of consideration.
Also in my experience I have found that there are certain heavier cloths like tweed with which this tightness does not work that well and you have to give them a little bit more of air.
A good tailor´s eye and skill are essential here once more.
Notwithstanding, if you have to err (don´t) I would say: err on the narrow side.
C.Lee
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Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:59 pm

In full agreement with hectorm. A sleeve which tapers - from shoulder to cuff - has a great line, much like a trouser, and frames the hand nicely. The cuff does not necessarily need to be tight to achieve this, and your sleeve should be sized to give the comfort you desire across your arm's range of motion.

Regards.
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