Donegal suit cloth

[rogiercreemers]

For this winter, I am planning to bespeak a Donegal suit. I'd like it to be appropriate for my (academic) workplace, as well for informal social events. For that, I was looking at the P&H Thornproof book. I would like to ask, however, how warm this wears, and whether there are other Donegal options I should consider. More specifically, what would be the difference in making up and wearability of the lighter weight vs. the heavier weight?

[cathach]

A lighter weight will almost neverhave the durabililty and hand or drape of a heavier cloth. But its all very personal to what you want and expect from a suit and how ot you get personally. Some people wear warmer than others and it depends also on the environment, e.g. stuffy office etc.

Also be very careful that you get genuine Donegal. Sadly it is not a protected term like Harris and the genuine Donegal is only available from W.Bill in the UK as far as I know, who also do handwovens. Real Donegal is woven in Ireland, in the Co. Donegal of the name. Harrisons 'Donegal' for an example is an imitation made in Huddersfield. Sometimes these imitations are worsted fabrics instead of tweed.

Genuine Donegal tweed is also available from the weavers Magee, John Molloy, and Eddie Doherty an independent handweaver. There is a resller in Dublin as well by the name of Kevin & Howlin. I believe there is a grey Donegal subscription open in the cloth club as well.

I would also also say to be aware of a lot of the light modern versions of Donegal, it can be mixed with cashmere etc. and it will not wear well, and of course will not last at all as trousers.

[rogiercreemers]

Thank you for your insights. I may have been a little unclear, though. With lighter weight, I was referring to the 14oz. weights in the Thornproof bunch, as compared to the 18 oz. In any case, I'm not looking for anything lighter than 14 for the winter.

That said, I was also looking at Molloy and Magee, and found that their cloths - whilst absolutely fabulous - may be a little bit rustic for the environment I'm going to wear the suit in. It seemed to me that the P&H's are a little more citified, or am I wrong?

[cathach]

Thank you for your insights. I may have been a little unclear, though. With lighter weight, I was referring to the 14oz. weights in the Thornproof bunch, as compared to the 18 oz. In any case, I'm not looking for anything lighter than 14 for the winter.

That said, I was also looking at Molloy and Magee, and found that their cloths - whilst absolutely fabulous - may be a little bit rustic for the environment I'm going to wear the suit in. It seemed to me that the P&H's are a little more citified, or am I wrong?

Thankfully all the Donegals mentioned above do still start at 14oz at least, so you're safe there. In relation to P&H's book of thornproof, it is made in Scotland so is a 'Donegal-effect' and for the patterns I've never used them so couldn't comment on them being more or less suited to your environment, which of course you are best placed to judge.

What I will say though is that the traditional Donegal 'fleck' makes up in a surprisingly sharp fashion, in an odd way it can look more professional than the majority of 'business' suits. However that is probably down to having the suit made up for you personally. As it tends not to be in the predominantly brown and green palette of other tweeds, its not what people expect of a tweed, if that makes any sense?

For example Magee do a POW check in a rich blue: http://www.mageeireland.com/_product_61372/Cloth_5011

[davidhuh]

Dear rogiercreemers,

a good source for Donegal is Magee of Donegal, http://www.mageeireland.com/CatalogueRe ... ueID=61372

I understand that Magee of Donegal is handling more than 80% of the total Donegal yardage produced. So the Donegal you see in P&H, H&S and other books might actually originate from Magee. You can buy their cloth online.

I doubt that the cloth would be suitable for a lounge suit, but you can inquire. Typically, you would have a coat and eventually a waist coat made with Donegal, and use a more appropriate fabric for the trousers (corduroy is an option, whipcord or twill - talk to your tailor).

Last but not least: there is a nice donegal cloth for jacketing in the LL Cloth Club subscription for this autumn: http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum/vi ... =2&t=10097

Both 18 and 14 oz are suitable for a coat. You might consider a waistcoat with the 14oz in case you live in a cold country as I do.

Best regards, david

[culverwood]

For this winter, I am planning to bespeak a Donegal suit. I'd like it to be appropriate for my (academic) workplace, as well for informal social events. For that, I was looking at the P&H Thornproof book. I would like to ask, however, how warm this wears, and whether there are other Donegal options I should consider. More specifically, what would be the difference in making up and wearability of the lighter weight vs. the heavier weight?

I do have a jacket in the P&H Thornproof the lighter weight. It is a tightly woven tweed and wears warm. Unless you are wearing the suit out of doors a lot and not in heated lecture halls etc I would go for the lighter rather than the heavier. I am not sure about a whole suit in Donegal but I have found the jacket which is in the blue fabric very useful with a wide range of trousers.

[rogiercreemers]

Thank you for the useful replies! Culverwood: thank you for the advice. I was thinking of going for either the grey with blue specks (14 oz) or the stone with yellow/orange specks (18 oz, see pictures), and for a three-piece suit as I like the classic-yet-sharp look, and can still use the pieces as separates. But if it does indeed wear that warm, I think I'll be better served with the 14 oz for the moment.

[Rowly]

Hi, Did you ever go ahead with the suit...and if so, how did you find it? I am tempted with a db in the grey 14oz, but fear it will be uncomfortable on the legs. I wonder if a spot effect flannel might be a more practical consideration?

[old henry]

Molloy & Sons is so soft you will never feel it. It is the best Donegal I have ever seen.

[GSC]

I agree with Old Henry. I have two sport coats and an overcoat made using Molloy & Sons Donegal. It is stunning tweed.

They do have some stock cloths some similar to those you are considering:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/molloyandsons/

I don't know how the stock cloths differ from the LL cloths used for my coats, but Molloy does send samples if you contact them.

[rogiercreemers]

I haven't gotten round to the suit yet, although it remains on my list. I have, however, had a jacket made from the 18oz Thornproof, which has rapidly become my fall/winter favourite. I have no experience with Molloy, and would imagine that would be a little softer, but I don't think I would have any more problems with Thornproof trousers than with, say Fresco trousers.

[rogiercreemers]

PS: I'd like to see a 14oz DB donegal suit, I wonder how double-breasted works out in tweed. If you are looking for spot-effect flannel, I'm sorry to say the Minnis one has been discontinued. Looks like I got mine just in time.

[Rowly]

I had seen a grey db in Harrods a couple of years ago. It was by Hardy Amies RTW range. It was a very beautiful grey Donegal design but not rustic at all. I couldn't find the source of the cloth. I would settle for Worsted Alsport, but theirs is a blueish cool grey. Perhaps Marling & Evans (or Fox Bros.) might have something suitable. I can'r remember whether the suit I saw had coloured nubs. A saxony with a tweed-like weave might be nice? I will look into Molloy's and see what they have.Thanks again......

[marburyvmadison]

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[old henry]

Its the same old story. I was looking for a Donegal to send to a customer but found the "Usual Suspects" to be lacking in ..The Hearty heft of the Old Country Stuff.... Then someone on here ..I forget who whom ? ..told me about Malloy & Sons and I will never look back.