Harris Tweed

[carl browne]

How suitable is Harris Tweed for trousers?

Carl

[Simon A]

These days, most Harris Tweed has a quite open weave. As a result garments don't hold their shape that well, and are breezy in cold windy weather. I experimented with this over the past few years and the results are not that great. If you can get hold of vintage stock, which is densely woven, it would probably make very good trousers.

[Charlie]

Harris Tweed would certainly be hard-wearing but possibly not the most comfortable against the skin! Maybe if you could acquire these fully lined, then this would ensure style, greater comfort and a little more protection from the elements.

[hectorm]

Dear Carl,
I tend to agreeing with Simon A on Harris Tweed garments not holding their perfect initial shape (of course trousers worse than jackets), but I believe that is part of their charm.
Most Harris Tweed comes nowadays in the 19/20 oz range so I would not be concerned about it being "breezy". That weight plus a full lining will make the trousers warm enough for any cold windy day in which you still want to be outdoors. Heavier tweeds in the 26 oz range are simply not wearable indoors with modern heating. On the other hand feather weight tweeds might look good in tailored garments but IMO are definitely not the real thing.

[Simon A]

Perhaps slightly off-topic, but the Harris Tweeds and Cheviots with a slightly rough handle can cause irritation to the legs even if lined. The seams on the inside leg tend to chafe, lined or unlined. The solution I have found is to wear knee-length boxer shorts, which are cheap and easy to have made, and long socks. You can then enjoy the warmth and robustness of your tweeds without the need for lining. If you are walking distances, hiking or hunting in your trousers, lining will just make you hot and sweaty, and then chilly when you cool down.

Most of the Harris Tweed I have seen over the past decade is in the 13-15 oz weight; this is the spec that sells in the broader market. It is difficult to produce a tweed on a Hattersley Loom that is durable, drapes well, holds its shape and is warm at this weight; it is pushing 19th century technology to perform a task it was not designed for. If you can find 20 oz vintage Harris Tweed that is densely woven, snap it up.

[Russell]

The herringbone Harris tweed woven by the Butt of Lewis Textile Company (they have a website) is the densest woven modern Harris that I've personally come across & a length of it has made up into nice sportscoat that's showing every sign of moulding to my 'form' without going baggy.

The company (a sole weaver really) sometimes weave a heavy version when the thicker yarn is available but apparently this isn't labelled as Harris tweed because it doesn't comply with the current HTA specification.

I suppose it depends on individual skin sensitivity but I shudder to contemplate a pair of unlined Harris tweed trousers.

I've seen a few samples of 'plain weave Harris from various sources & they have all been very loose; so much so that I'd be reluctant to have a sportscoat made from them (never mind trousers).

Regards
Russell

[Jordan Marc]

Carl:

Harris tweed makes a lovely sportjacket, but it's too rough for trousers. A better solution would be to have two pairs of trousers made, the first being made of tan cavalry twill and the second being made
of tan and brown marled wool twill. That's assuming your Harris tweed jacket has a brown and cream
coloration. If your Harris tweed is of a different coloration, I'd still opt for trousers made of cavalry twill and a two-toned marled wool twill, but in different colors that complement your jacket. You might even add a tattersal check vest in doeskin flannel from the range offered by W. Bill.

JMB

[chelsea]

Many years ago I had a holiday on Harris and purchased a suit length of tweed from a local croft recommended to me.

I duly had a suit made up and actually the trousers were not too rough on the skin so that was fine. What surprised me was that the trousers were not particularly hard wearing, particularly where cloth rubbed inside the legs.

Would I have a suit made up of Harris tweed ? Probably not. I think it is fabulous cloth but other tweeds are probably more suitable for suiting.


Chelsea

[hectorm]

What surprised me was that the trousers were not particularly hard wearing, particularly where cloth rubbed inside the legs.

I have heard people expressing that same complaint. But in my experience, most of the traditional Harris Tweed out there is so sturdy and durable (and rough) that your skin would suffer the consequence of the rubbing inside the legs much before the cloth even notices it. Ouch!

[Simon A]

....Hence the knee-length boxers and long socks. One wears tweed trousers for warmth and resistance to thorns and brambles while maintaining a respectable appearance and appropriate camouflage, not glamour and luxurious feel against the skin. It is a 500 year-old textile design, made for real men doing hard work in the harsh elements, and those who aspire to imitate them.

[davidhuh]

It is a 500 year-old textile design, made for real men doing hard work in the harsh elements, and those who aspire to imitate them.

- well said Simon!

cheers, david

[carl browne]

The website www.scotweb.co.uk/ offers some 18 oz Harris tweeds--has anyone tried them?

[cathach]

Many years ago I had a holiday on Harris and purchased a suit length of tweed from a local croft recommended to me.

I duly had a suit made up and actually the trousers were not too rough on the skin so that was fine. What surprised me was that the trousers were not particularly hard wearing, particularly where cloth rubbed inside the legs.

Would I have a suit made up of Harris tweed ? Probably not. I think it is fabulous cloth but other tweeds are probably more suitable for suiting.


Chelsea

You'll find this with any woollen woven as opposed to worsted woven cloth. Flannel, tweed and doeskin have their warmth and softness due to the fibres being at cross-angles to the direction of the weave. This gives the warmth as its ''hairier'', and it also means that they do not get shiny like a worsted. However they'll never last as long as trousers as an equivalent worsted.

[hectorm]

The website http://www.scotweb.co.uk/ offers some 18 oz Harris tweeds--has anyone tried them?

Carl,
I own a jacket made with a Berneray blue herringbone tweed sold by that company. I thought it was 19 or 20 oz and not 18 oz as advertised in the website now. Of the three tweed jackets I own, it´s by far the sturdiest and warmest and the one that has best kept its shape. I would not recommend it for trousers though.

[Cufflink79]

Not trying to gear off topic here, but there is book on Harris Tweed as well if you'd like to learn more about it.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/harris- ... +to+street

Best Regards,

Cufflink79