The Raglan

[S. Gillette]

But 1000 gms cloth is apparently not enough out East as I have seen and felt the 1400 gms gray overcoating ordered every season by a famous Viennese tailor. Now that is heavyweight material!

Indeed it is. Owners might call their garments Fort Coat.

[Des Esseintes]

I know little about about German fashion though I have always liked the Tyrolean lodens that are normally made as ghille collared Raglans. A few trips to Vienna or Salzburg will normally win you over to the style.

I agree that most functional loden coats, for shooting, stalking and other country pursuits, are made with ghillie collars or permutations thereof. I wouldn't agree though that traditional forms come with Raglan sleeves. I believe the classic cuts for a loden stalking coat are either a "Kotze", a kind of cape, or, if a proper coat, a cut often referred to as a "Hubertus" cut, with a rather particularly sleeve treatment, doubled on top, i.e., where the sleeve meets the shoulder seam, but open around the pit, to facilitate fast movements with your arm when shooting. Of course, a Raglan sleeve would meet the same purpose but I don't think that's how traditional loden coats are "normally" made. I come to this topic as someone shooting and stalking and hence familiar with coats usually worn for these purposes - maybe someone with more of an Alpine background could comment from a folklore perspective.

dE

PS: Nor sure our Austrian members / readers all appreciate your close association of Tyrol(-ean loden) with German fashion, for various understandable reasons...

[alden]

Indeed it is. Owners might call their garments Fort Coat.

Ha, I think of Fort Coat as the highly structured clothes sewn with a ladder inside so you can crawl out after a hard day's work.

Michael

[alden]

I agree that most functional loden coats, for shooting, stalking and other country pursuits, are made with ghillie collars or permutations thereof. I wouldn't agree though that traditional forms come with Raglan sleeves. I believe the classic cuts for a loden stalking coat are either a "Kotze", a kind of cape, or, if a proper coat, a cut often referred to as a "Hubertus" cut, with a rather particularly sleeve treatment, doubled on top, i.e., where the sleeve meets the shoulder seam, but open around the pit, to facilitate fast movements with your arm when shooting

My shooting coats and country coats in general (see Ambrosi visit video: http://www.dresswithstyle.com) are all set sleeve for the reasons you evoke above. If you will be shooting or pruning trees, movement is simplified as compared to the Raglan that won't get out of the way. If you are using the coat for walking and you want great cover and shelter with a good deal of ease, the Raglan with a storm collar is a good way to go.

We used to have an Austrian trachtenmode expert on the LL who could assuredly give us more information on the classic styles. In the cities of Vienna and Salzburg, I saw a good many Raglan loden coats. I suspect those fellows were not stalking anything, but maybe they were...

PS: Nor sure our Austrian members / readers all appreciate your close association of Tyrol(-ean loden) with German fashion, for various understandable reasons...

That’s quite a creative stretch.

The subject is loden coats. Danke

[marcelo]

Marcelo, here are two German illustrations of evening raglans from the 50ies:

Dear LeGentleman

thanks for the images. Do they stem from the Herrenjournal?

[le.gentleman]

Marcelo, here are two German illustrations of evening raglans from the 50ies:

Dear LeGentleman

thanks for the images. Do they stem from the Herrenjournal?

No, neither of them is from the Herrenjournal. One is from the book Eelking's book Anzugs-Almanach and the other one from a magazine, unfortunately I don't know the name of it. I am sure though I would find some pics in the my Herrenjournale too. Sadly, I don't have the time right now to go through all of them .

[marcelo]

by Norman Rockwell "Christmas Homecoming" (1948). Cover illustration for The Saturday Evening Post, December 25, 1948. Oil on canvas.

[couch]

I always thought the classic Austrian hubertus had set-in sleeves, ghillie collar, fly front (except for exposed collar button) and the characteristic high inverted box pleat in the back, giving a long A-line with a lot of sweep:

[Gruto]

Bespoke raglan anno 2010:

[alden]

I always thought the classic Austrian hubertus had set-in sleeves, ghillie collar, fly front (except for exposed collar button) and the characteristic high inverted box pleat in the back, giving a long A-line with a lot of sweep:

Yes, and during a recent stopover in Rome I saw a ton of these being worn. What do you think of urban use for the raglan coat? Is it rus in urbe stuff or day to day business wear these days? It seemed to be very urban oriented in Rome.

(And the mustard color loden is particularly inviting to the eye. I am going to see about getting some of it.)

Michael

[alden]

Bespoke raglan anno 2010:

Very nice. A heavy tweed raglan is a great choice.

Buon anno!

Michael

[Richard3]

Yes, and during a recent stopover in Rome I saw a ton of these being worn. What do you think of urban use for the raglan coat? Is it rus in urbe stuff or day to day business wear these days? It seemed to be very urban oriented in Rome.

In Austria this kind of coat is the most common one. It`s worn everywhere by everyone who owns a long coat. Nevertheless I am not a fan of that kind of coat as I usually prefer models with more shape.

[alden]

In Austria this kind of coat is the most common one. It`s worn everywhere by everyone who owns a long coat. Nevertheless I am not a fan of that kind of coat as I usually prefer models with more shape.

Well the coats were typically worn by men of substantial girth (which the Raglan model was chosen to hide.)

I did see a honey color loden that resembles the LL donkey flannel very much. It was lovely. Do you know the color I mean?

Michael