Row House Style For Er..Short / Rotund?

[Guest]

Poole, Davies, Norton, Kilgour, Dege, VVelsh & Jefferies, Connock & Lockie (Bloomsbury) - and more - there are plenty to choose from and, unlike some others recently, I'd be surprised to see them let any rubbish go out. On the main point though, at the end of the day, if one is a little fat, there it is!
NJS

[Guest]

Gentlemen,

Any tailor should be be able to cut and make for the fuller figure, it is not rocket science.

Here is an article I published on my weblog in September 2006, titled 'Donlon Wedge'

http://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/ ... 0060913-2/

The devising of this unique cut was made by a cutter quite suprisingly called Mr Donlon!.. many years ago and the application of his 'wedge' allows the fitting of semi, and corpulent figures to be achieved with ease and great success.

[Guest]

A pattern including that wedge would have looked like this. It hasn't changed much during the last centuries(it's from ca. 1910):

That opening you see on Des' Blog is not there until you cut the front part like shown on the right. it is important to keep the stripes or any other pattern as straight as possible, which had been, of course, well done by Des!
This is from the mid 50's:

How this is altered is displayed in my other post.
It is absolutely vital that the shape of the seams match as much as possible. In todays RTW and MTM(because they share the same computerized pattern making system) this often is not the case and there are huge darts in the front parts, which create ugly distortions under the arms, starting not surprisingly at the dart area of the front, which can be seen on most of todays RTW coats(watch the O. Boateng model)


SG

[Guest]

I want to say again how pleased I am to have such tailors as Schneider Gott amongst the Loungers, for his clear comments and cogent illustrations are always informative. I've even begun to feel more comprehending of tailor's patterns, thanks to him and to Sator.

RWS