Wear and tear on trouser cuffs

[Guest]

Do SR suits come with a cuff shields or should one ask for it?

rtw,m2m,or custom always ask for heel guards.
also ask for the cut off cloth.

[Guest]

[quote="Anonymous] the picture shows what i was speaking of. this ribbon sewn 1mm above the bottom of the cuff is useless as protection from wear, as the bottom itself is exposed to wear. you can see that it is not protecting anything.
if that ribbon is there for some other purpose, thats fine. but the bottom will wear out.[/quote]

It is the INSIDE of the hem that rubs against the heel, not the actual EDGE of he trouser leg. The lower edge of the extra-fort is thicker than the ribbon and it rubs against the heel of the shoe, keeping the hem away from it. The actual edge of the hem doesn't touch anything (unless the trousers are too long) and doesn't fray, while the ribbon is never visible from beneath the cloth. All my trousers are made like this and I never had a problem with the edges.

[Guest]

the original poster said the bottom was worn out.

[Guest]

Yes, quite, there is another type which has ridge and so keeps the trouser edge from touching anything at all. But at the end of the day ,we are talking about trousers which should not be worn day after day. Best to rotate. Two pairs of trousers with each suit are not a bad investment. Trousers do go first.
NJS

[Guest]

Yes, quite, there is another type which has ridge and so keeps the trouser edge from touching anything at all. But at the end of the day ,we are talking about trousers which should not be worn day after day. Best to rotate. Two pairs of trousers with each suit are not a bad investment. Trousers do go first.
NJS

yes two trousers are the best investment.especially if the suit is an expensive one. the crotch is another wear spot. also there can be damage to the trouser.
judges especially should get two or more trousers.

[Guest]

my SR tailor will only put heal guards on if you ask for them.

the point about the guard needing to be a millimetre above the bottom of the cuff is an interesting one. I have seen high-end RTW trousers with guards which actually protrude slightly below the cuff and which are clearly visible. this is evidently a mistake, attributable, presumably, to the fact that the RTW designer is a designer and not a tailor...

[Guest]

Excellent idea above: to ask to keep the cloth remnants from the cutting.
NJS

[Guest]

Yes, moths, nails and burning cigarettes are a suit's worst enemy and especially with patterns it may be impossible to clip the right piece from the inside of the breast pocket or other usual places to reweave the cloth over a hole. I have a bag full of these cutting scraps and they saved a few good suits so far.

Re. trouser hem protection, it's exactly the type NJS describes that I wrote about, the one with a ridge (the word slipped me so I used a rather clumsy periphrase). That this ribbon should show beneath the hem can only be the result of negligent work in my opinion, or of a misconception with respect to the way it works. Does a sweatband have to show from beneath the hat in order to keep the felt from touching the skin?

Costi

[Guest]

As far as I know the hem of a trouser should touch the shoe. So it is very likely that, without the special ribbon showing at the hem( might be at same level, though), the cloth will touch the shoe and therefore will wear faster.
Such ribbons can be easily replaced and come in many colours and unless your tailor is colourblind or not willing to spend money on more than 3 basic colours(black, brown & white), nobody will notice anything down at the end of your trousers. If the colour matches and somebody still notices the ribbon showing, it's probably somebody who is not very interested in the wearer.


SG

[Guest]

Ha!! Well I'm not sure you're entirely right, because as I have mentioned on here before, several women have confided that the first item of our clothing that they look at is our shoes!! - and, next to them might be, on this analysis: protruding, skinflint-suggesting protective ribbon!!! I am with Costi on this (and not just because that is a very safe bet indeed).
NJS

[Guest]

. . . . If . . . somebody still notices the ribbon showing, it's probably somebody who is not very interested in the wearer. . . .

Touché!

RWS

[Guest]

I am with Costi on this (and not just because that is a very safe bet indeed).
NJS

Such credit much honours and obliges me!

I am far from the idea of obstinately disagreeing with a professional whose knowledge and advice I very much value. I will just say that, as I understand the mechanics involved in the protective action of the extra-fort, the ribbon and its ridge work by pushing the cloth away from the shoe horizontally, as in the rather rudimentary scheme below (alas I can't do much better in Paint):

Ergo the ribbon doesn't need to protrude in order to protect the hem and, should it protrude, it wouldn't offer a better protection. At least that's what I learned from my tailors and experienced with my trousers.