Double Sided Button Hole
Should the top button on a 3 button jacket be stiched double sided on a good bespoke jacket?
only if the button hole will show as the lapel rolls. thats the 3 to2.5 roll.
it need not be done if the top will be "yuk"buttoned.
it need not be done if the top will be "yuk"buttoned.
?
What's 'yuk'?
The top button hole most invariably shows. So, it should be double stiched, definitely.
What's 'yuk'?
The top button hole most invariably shows. So, it should be double stiched, definitely.
I’m guessing that “yuk” is a variant of “yuck” and is the poster’s feeling about three button jackets on which the top button is intended/required to be buttoned, i.e., the lapels end above the top button and buttonhole and are often pressed flat. It could also be the synonym for laughter. Either way, my reaction to such short, flat lapels, is also mild distaste or derision. I don’t agree, however, that the top buttonhole on every three button jacket must be double sided. I have a couple of true 3-roll-2 sport coats on which the top button cannot be buttoned, at least not without twisting the lapels completely out of shape, and the finished side of the top buttonhole is on the “back” or inside of the lapel, the side which is always exposed. Today I’m wearing a three button suit on which, like others I have, the lapels roll through the top button and buttonhole but not far enough down to expose the back side of the buttonhole, except perhaps to someone standing beside me and peeking down the front of my jacket, maybe a 3-roll-2 1/4 . There the finished side of the button hole is on the front, though it would only really show if I buttoned the top button which I never do. I also have 3-roll-2 1/2 suits and sport coats on which some or all of both the front and back of the top buttonhole is visible depending on the angle of view, and the top buttonhole is finished on both sides or double. I'm happy with all three arrangements as being appropriate to the jackets on which they appear.
oldog/oldtrix
oldog/oldtrix
The quality of a handsewn buttonhole is appreciated by examining both sides: even on a simple buttonhole (not double-sided), the back should be neat and uniform, with the only difference that the knots are not visible. Therefore, just as I don't mind looking at the inside of an unlined coat, I also don't mind seeing the back of an expertly handsewn buttonhole.
Costi
Costi
i stand corrected. "YUCK" is the proper term..
AS A MATTER OF FACT I LIKE OXXFORDS DOUBLE SIDES ON ALL THREE BUTTONHOLES.
AS A MATTER OF FACT I LIKE OXXFORDS DOUBLE SIDES ON ALL THREE BUTTONHOLES.
All of my 3 buttons jackets are rolled to 2.5 and buttoned at 2.
The top button on some is double finished and on other jackets is one sided.
I think that the double sided finish shows added forethought and quality but its absence is not damning.
The top button on some is double finished and on other jackets is one sided.
I think that the double sided finish shows added forethought and quality but its absence is not damning.
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