Can you have a well-made suit without pick stitching?

[Guest]

Sirs,

Again, perhaps, I am exhibiting the folly of buying RTW, but there is a suit I'm eyeing off, my one reservation being the lack of pick stitching on the lapel and pockets. Some questions/discussion points (I'm very thorough, I know...)

1. The fabric is a reasonably weight nailhead, and the manufacturer is a pretty good quality one (D'Avenza), so I am wondering whether this could be an intentional omission. I know it adds strength to the edges, but I suppose perhaps it was considered that they were strong enough - alternatively that stitching would interrupt the pattern and look messy.

2. Alternatively, perhaps there are differential qualities by that maker, of which I was unaware. Is anyone experienced with them?

3. As a coat ages and is cleaned, I find it tends to pucker a little between the stitches, in a not unattractive manner. I wonder what would happen to an unstitched seam - having never owned one except on a quite casual cotton jacket.

4. Finally, I wonder what your views are on having a trusted tailor add pick-stitching after the fact.

Looking forward to your feedback.

Cheers,


EB

[Guest]

any custom jacket can be made this way. the edges are bluffed, that slightly turned in . this way the edges seam is not seen. the plain bluffed edge has a tendency to bulk or puff up as seen on rtw suits. to stitch a plain edge usually will not work well. the fabric you describe should take a hand blind stitch this will not show unless closely examined. pick stitching is done with the intent to show.