Jacket facing...

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
Post Reply
Guest

Tue Jan 01, 2008 6:26 pm

Hello. I was wondering what type of jacket facing you gentlemen prefer? As far as I am aware there is the classic straight facing with the pockets extending onto the fabric; then there is the round facing (?); and recently the French facing (half-lined) seems to be becoming quite popular.

Cheers
Guest

Wed Jan 02, 2008 6:06 pm

What do you mean by facing?

--Cantabrigian
Guest

Wed Jan 02, 2008 6:39 pm

The inside of the jacket...Where the fabric joins to the lining and pockets...
Guest

Thu Jan 03, 2008 9:05 pm

French Facing is when the jacket is is partial lined, the arm and the shoulder area only leaving the rest of the jacket unfinished.

This requires extra care to have nice clean seams inside the jacket as they will all be exposed. They are usually silk trimmed.


Do you prefer this or the classic way?
Guest

Sat Jan 05, 2008 5:05 pm

For facings are 3 basic versions the most common.
1) The pocket of the lining reaches into the facing. That's how Des Merrion is doing it, I think!

Image

2) a version that is called "Zunge" in german(means tongue). There are lots of variations in shape and size(sometimes seen on MTM amd RTW to create the illusion of value):

Image

3) the version where the pocket is made only into the lining. Mostly used for cheaper RTW and MTM:

Image

Versions 1 and 2 are of course better, with version 2 causing the most work and meaning extra use of fabric. That's why you'll sometimes may find it done with a seam!

It's up to the preference of the customer or the tailor.
As I am both: If I have sufficient amount of cloth and time I always prefer the 2nd version!
It's more durable and looks better!

SG
Guest

Sat Jan 05, 2008 6:57 pm

Thank you!

I was however referring to this type of facing which I think looks nice but would be interested in hearing the opinion of other loungers.
Image
Guest

Sat Jan 05, 2008 8:11 pm

Hello!

So it is the way of lining a coat or jacket "guest" mentioned as being "french lining"!
Looks very nice. As far as I know it is basically used for summer garments.

I have brightened the picture a bit, so we can see more details.

Image

I would have one where the back has some lining, too. Would move nicer on the shoulder blades!

SG
Guest

Sat Jan 05, 2008 10:27 pm

I have a heavy weight tweed coat from the 1960's that has a similar half lining, so it is not always to do with the season.
Guest

Sat Feb 23, 2008 7:27 pm

each tailor has his own style details. but they are usually flexible about most things. just do not stretch him too far. if you want someone else style then go there. let your tailor do the details that he can do best.
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 59 guests