Budd London

[Guest]

This may sound silly but...what is this boiled budd tuxedo shirt everyone is talking about? I am guessing it is made from starched linen and not pique? Any pictures?

cheers guys

[Guest]

Sorry, I am without a camera at the moment, but yes, the front is made from linen. It has a smooth startched front, which is polished in the same way that a collar is. Obviously, it is worn with a separate collar and studs. Perhaps a misnomer to call it a 'tuxedo shirt' - it can be worn with both black and white tie, and indeed, I'd be prepared to hazard that it's most 'correct' of all the options availiable for the latter. It certainly, to my eye, looks the best.

I might add that is isn't a special invention of Budds as far as I know; they are simply the only remaining makers. I have a few old ones which have been passed down, which hale from other Jermyn Street makers.

Hope this was of use; I'm sure NJS or another member more knowledgable than I will be able to fill in the gaps / correct errors.

Algernon.

[Guest]

For some cultural background, see the college dinner in Dorothy Sayers' Gaudy Night. There was some discussion on which male guests to the table would be hard-boiled, and which soft. Those with correct tastes formed before WWI chose hard with their black tie.

[Guest]

what does it mean hard boiled? I thought the front was hard due to starching and not due to boiling?

[Guest]

Are those the shirts worn by all dinner guests in the Jeeves & Wooster series?

[Guest]

Yes Algernon, it would be great to see how this budd shirt looks. I have searched the internet but I cant find anything.

[Guest]

Congratulations on the cultural reference (Gaudy Night). If I remember correctly, the hard boiled shirt front would audibly pop whenever the wearer bent forward, which greatly amused the ladies seated near by. One shall not speculate whether this reveals a regrettable frivolity amongst academic ladies. D. Sayers was probably trying to make them seem more "normal" and "human" to her readers, softening their austere blue-stocking images.
Frog in Suit

[Guest]

Congratulations on the cultural reference (Gaudy Night). If I remember correctly, the hard boiled shirt front would audibly pop whenever the wearer bent forward, which greatly amused the ladies seated near by.

Not if cut properly! Lord Peter delivered a small lecture on the importance of getting the length right.

[Guest]

I believe that Harvie & Hudson still make them, or at least did when last I asked, four years or so ago.

Here is a vintage example, tailored by Radiac, who I think mave have become Tootal:





Some history here: http://www.h-f-h.org.uk/gallery/shirtmaking.html
(clearly my shirt is post-1908)