Trouser lining?

[Guest]

It is quite common for the sleeve lining to match the vest lining. Does that apply for the trouser lining?

Cheers

[Guest]

Trouser lining?
Nicholas.

[Guest]

Yes. I am having a tweed suit done and its my choice of how I would like to line the trouser.

[Guest]

How often will other people see the lining of your trousers? And on those odd occasions when someone will, what are the odds that they will care?

--Cantabrigian

[Guest]

It is quite common for the sleeve lining to match the vest lining. Does that apply for the trouser lining?

Cheers

It appears that London bespoke matches the sleeve lining (the house's signature lining) with the trouser waistband lining. I have seen this on Davies & Son and Fallan & Harvey.

This matching does not extend to the lining in the legs. Typically, the lining is solid and matches the cloth.

I have not seen the matching of the linings at sleeve and waist in American clothes made by Flusser and Brooks Bros. (both made by Greenfield). It should be noted that both makes have signature sleeve linings. Typically, the waistband is made from a tough cotton material used for that purpose and which often matches the color of the trousers.



Mark Seitelman

[Guest]

In the UK and Eire tweed trousers are never lined - one wears silk 'long johns'. However, if you are elsewhere I wonder whether it matters very much what colour the lining is.
Nicholas.

[Guest]

Mark, the sleeve lining is usually made of stripped rayon fabric…what you are saying is that the waistband is also made from this rayon striped fabric (if so I am guessing the lines are horizontal)?

Nicholas, if the tweed fabric also has some mohair in it wouldn’t be too uncomfortable without the lining protecting your skin?

Thank you for your answers.

[Guest]

As I reported elsewhere, Dege does not line trousers, tweed or otherwise. They have asked with respect to some heavier tweeds, but when I expressed no preference, they generally right away suggested leaving it out. With one exception - for a pair of 32 oz Bedford cords, they considered it for a while first, before deciding against. I don't object to linings, but I don't really desire them either. I leave this as a Coach's Decision.

dopey

[Guest]

Mark, the sleeve lining is usually made of stripped rayon fabric…what you are saying is that the waistband is also made from this rayon striped fabric (if so I am guessing the lines are horizontal)?

On the waistband the stripes are vertical.

Incidentally, the waistband uses the same material as the sleeve lining. The pants pockets are cotton or a similar material.

[Guest]

I have wondered about this divergence in choice of cloth type for the waistband lining. My three pair of SR trousers all use Bemberg-type cloth for this. My U.S. made-to-measures, as Mark suggests, use a rougher-textured cotton. I like the feel of the Bemberg, but as one who seldom wears braces, I regret their tendency to sink below the waist more easily than the cotton waistbands. I speculate that the SR choice evolved in parallel with the dominance of braces, where a low-friction waistband would be helpful in allowing the trousers to slide over the wearer's shirt freely as he moved, without tending to pull up the tail and ruck the shirt at the waistline. Anyone know if this is correct (or even plausible)?

If this hypothesis is correct, when commissioning trousers intended to support themselves at the waist with Daks tabs, side adjusters, or belt, would it be worth asking the (SR) tailor's view of the cotton alternative?

- Couch